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G33/40: How Dark should the bluing be?

ekafant

Senior Member
I was finally able to pick up a 1940 dated G33/40. Bolt is correct, but does not match. Stock matches and is untouched. Only problem was that someone slathered it with cold blue, including the buttplate and stock discs, I guess in an attempt to pretty it up! Anyway, I was able to get the cold blue off with a combination of bronze wool, oil, and a slight amount of very fine polish. I believe I got most of it off. All I see left is a black bluing that looks original, although the barrel has normal scratches, etc. I suspect they wanted to cover the scratches, etc. up. Was the rifles original bluing basically black, or has time done that?
 
Hello
Even if you got the " cold bluing" off, you would still have that cold blue smell. Plus, I am sure you would have removed some of the original bluing. It is too bad as even with the mismatched bolt, it was still collectable. Now with all that was done, I don't know. Ron
 
I was VERY gentle with any kind of cold blue removal. That is why I used bronze wool and oil. Just a couple of stubborn spots I used a spot of the polish mixed with the oil. My main goal was NOT to remove any of the original bluing, or lose the patina of the rifle. The butt plates still have an "old" look to them. The cold blue smell is gone. I did reek before. I guess my question is I am down to a very dark, almost black finish, and I assume that this is the original finish. I do not want to go any further if not needed.
 
I think I have answered my own question. I guess I should have done the obvious and just looked at the metal hidden in the stock. The cold blue is gone. No harm, no foul done. The original bluing is very dark, pretty much black. I guess my question is, was the original bluing a dark blue, or more black. It seems as though alot of old military guns have this black finish. I am thinking of my Swiss K31s, which have a black bluing. Now, is this a result of time changing the color, or is this black finish the way they were when new. I hope this makes sense!
 
I think I have answered my own question. I guess I should have done the obvious and just looked at the metal hidden in the stock. The cold blue is gone. No harm, no foul done. The original bluing is very dark, pretty much black. I guess my question is, was the original bluing a dark blue, or more black. It seems as though alot of old military guns have this black finish. I am thinking of my Swiss K31s, which have a black bluing. Now, is this a result of time changing the color, or is this black finish the way they were when new. I hope this makes sense!


Honestly the best gauge we have would be the under thewoodline test as the newest 33/49 I have seen was 50 + years old at the time. Dark blue would be a better description imo. The finish on the 33/40’s tends to fade morethan average for whatever reason. Thisis one that I sold a few years ago and this type of wear isn’t atypical.
 

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You dont need to remove the cold blue with any steel wool, etc.

Use vinegar, it is simple and will melt the colt blue away and leave a hot blue untoutched. You must make sure to carefully rinse with warm water and oil afterwards as vinegar is an acid and could cause corrosion if not removed.

I use vinegar to remove the cold blue of RC butt plates, it simply disolves the blueing off like magic.

Takes the smell away too!

Cheers
 
G33/40 color

I think I have answered my own question. I guess I should have done the obvious and just looked at the metal hidden in the stock. The cold blue is gone. No harm, no foul done. The original bluing is very dark, pretty much black. I guess my question is, was the original bluing a dark blue, or more black. It seems as though alot of old military guns have this black finish. I am thinking of my Swiss K31s, which have a black bluing. Now, is this a result of time changing the color, or is this black finish the way they were when new. I hope this makes sense!

My friend has one that his father a WWII veteran got in unissued condition, Perfect stock 1 piece walnut date 1942 dot marked with eagle and swastikas proff marks comple with sight hood, cleanning rod sling and bayonet. For a wartime piece it is very nicely polioshed with a deep blue finnish. He has been offered $5.000.00 for it but he would not part with it. I guess he knows what he has plus is sort of a family property thing
 
My friend has one that his father a WWII veteran got in unissued condition, Perfect stock 1 piece walnut date 1942 dot marked with eagle and swastikas proff marks comple with sight hood, cleanning rod sling and bayonet. For a wartime piece it is very nicely polioshed with a deep blue finnish. He has been offered $5.000.00 for it but he would not part with it. I guess he knows what he has plus is sort of a family property thing

Coax him into posting pics of that one.
 
You dont need to remove the cold blue with any steel wool, etc.

Use vinegar, it is simple and will melt the colt blue away and leave a hot blue untoutched. You must make sure to carefully rinse with warm water and oil afterwards as vinegar is an acid and could cause corrosion if not removed.

I use vinegar to remove the cold blue of RC butt plates, it simply disolves the blueing off like magic.

Takes the smell away too!

Cheers

I have a five digit BCD with bluing over phosphate. Do you think vinegar would remove the bluing from the phosphate as well? Thanks for any info.

Hercules
 

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