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1915 Erfurt K98a

Warrior1354

ax - hole
Before I describe this rifle I would like to thank a couple people here first. I would like to thank D-K for selling me this wonderful piece for my collection. Even though it sold at auction I was very happy to have purchased it from you. Also would like to give a big thanks to Paul for helping me with my Gew98 research and my Kar98a research. I really do appreciate it Paul. It was because of you that my Erma/Erfurt collection and knowledge has grown in size this past year thank you very much sir. Now this rifle is an Erfurt 1915 #1713q all matching example that is believed to be an war bond rifle. This is due to the deactivated firing pin. I also believe this rifle has not be taken apart in a very very long time. Just the few parts I took apart show evidence of that. I even took the butt-plate off and it looked like mud and dirt had gotten in there behind it. Rifle is in very nice condition and I have taken alot of photos to gladly show the piece off. I would like to get a good picture of the barrel code in the future but will need better tools to make sure the carbine is not damaged during a complete field strip. Enjoy guys.

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Thanks for posting this W, - a very nice example and so far as i see totally original. Which isn't all that easy to find for this year. While Erfurt made a huge number of 98a in 1915, they are not so easy to find this nice. Junkers abound, as are problem rifles, - not hard to find with lots of problems or mismatched, but this nice they are very tough. You got an excellent price also...

For every Erfurt/15 in this condition there are five times as many 1916's and probably ten times 1917's (probably more).

As for the BC, as i told you, although I would like the data, it is probably best to avoid tampering with it. It is easy to harm the stock and handguard, plus it looks sealed, might not have been apart before. Which might be why Keith didn't disassemble it for the auction. Hate to see the stock or handguard get scratch, or worse damaged. Handguards can crack easy too...

Besides, just offering is enough of a gesture, - most people who ask much more do far less in exchange for the information they seek... I am getting to the point of ignoring anyone who "hides" serials or seeks information without reciprocity, - no more time for them, they can use the search option...
 
Before I describe this rifle I would like to thank a couple people here first. I would like to thank D-K for selling me this wonderful piece for my collection. Even though it sold at auction I was very happy to have purchased it from you. Also would like to give a big thanks to Paul for helping me with my Gew98 research and my K98a research. I really do appreciate it Paul. It was because of you that my Erma/Erfurt collection and knowledge has grown in size this past year thank you very much sir. Now this rifle is an Erfurt 1915 #1713q all matching example that is believed to be an war bond rifle. This is due to the deactivated firing pin. I also believe this rifle has not be taken apart in a very very long time. Just the few parts I took apart show evidence of that. I even took the butt-plate off and it looked like mud and dirt had gotten in there behind it. Rifle is in very nice condition and I have taken alot of photos to gladly show the piece off. I would like to get a good picture of the barrel code in the future but will need better tools to make sure the carbine is not damaged during a complete field strip. Enjoy guys.

]

It is not a war bond "98a". All war bond rifles were plugged at the muzzle and chamber by shops in france. Clipped firing pins on WW1 "bringback" german rifles are not uncommon.
 
It is not a war bond "98a". All war bond rifles were plugged at the muzzle and chamber by shops in france. Clipped firing pins on WW1 "bringback" german rifles are not uncommon.

I've seen one of those war bond guns, and I recall that people have salvaged them, with some work.

I don't have a rifle with a broken pin like this, but what is generally accepted here in terms of repair? Do people leave them be? Not every gun is a shooter, but it seems like it would be an easy repair with some weld and a jewelers lathe.
 
Like everything, there are numerous opinions on what to do with war bond rifles, but ultimately it is the owners decision (as it should be in all cases, - many ascribe "custodian" or "preserver" of history to their ownership, or any number of nonsensical judgments on others for restoring or parting out rifles... but it is no ones business but the owners as to what should be done with their property) and I think it is a worthwhile endeavor if you can do the work properly. Which few are probably capable of doing well, as there is skill involved and technical knowledge that is generally lacking in our society today... plus a certain amount of recklessness, as Bill forces the chamber plug out with an unconventional method. Probably not a good idea to imitate unless you have Bill's thorough experience with such things.

MauserBill did one for me a decade or more ago, and it was a great success, if you have the skill or can talk Bill into doing a reversal, then I would recommend it. A rifle with a blocked bore and breech isn't much of a rifle...

*** there is a friend of MauserBill's (Gew98) that did a FP repair for me a decade or more ago, I am not sure what was involved, but the simplest thing is to use a m/m FP as it is cheaper and not a part typically seen or important. Typically, I keep the old FP for when I sell the rifle, but repairing isn't really worth the expense most of the time. The rifle I had it done for was a really nice Amberg/17, and if the rifle is really nice and matching, it is probably worth looking into.
 
Thank you guys for all the comments on my rifle glad you enjoy it. The only think I'm going to do to this piece is replace the broken firing pin so the rifle will shoot again. But the original firing pin will always be kept with the rifle if I do sell it one day. But I don't think I can either I really like this piece.
 
Wow warrior that is a very nice rifle. I appreciate the time you and everyone else took to help. I am not very knowledgeable about these rifles but I have taking several hours of trying to figure out how someone would know without being able to find the right numbers on the rifle. I don't buy guns very often as I have had the same guns for over 20 years. I wanted to add this one because it intrigued me. It is very awesome seeing what it looked like before it was converted.

I help people on forums all the time in subjects I know so I just don't leech and not care about helping others. Thanks guys for the help and information.
 
Updated pictures of this one.

Paul I took this carbine apart yesterday at my buddies gun-store in their shop. They have alot better tools and equipment then I do in their gunsmithing department. Anyway got you some real good pictures of the barrel, stock, hand-guard, inside the trigger-guard area, etc.

Have too say that trigger-guard group was dirty! There was so much gunk, dirt, and grime on it took some effort too get it out. Those parts got a bath in their sonic cleaning machine that thing works wonder. Hope this helps in your research department.

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Thanks for the extra effort Jordan, very helpful, barrel codes recorded for Imperial rifles are a small fraction of what has been accomplished for the 98k era. Probably no more than 10% from the most optimistic view... which is incredibly unfortunate because so much can be gleaned from these observations. Though to be fair, barrel coding and acceptance is far more important to 1934-1945 period than it ever will be with Imperial rifle research. For one in the Imperial period most of the firms engaged were actual makers, whereas in the so-called "nazi" era (a ridiculous term by the way), very few were actual makers by the same standard of the Imperial era. Almost all Imperial era makers made their own barrels or had special relationships to accomplish this complicated component, so the barrel codes only give you a raw forging (steel) supplier and lot, not a date and supplier like with 98k, which can often tell you more about a rifle if you can accumulate enough examples in your trends sheets.
 
Your very welcome Paul glad too help with your research data. As for barrels go I think we learn something new everyday about barrel suppliers in the Nazi era. It can be really interesting.
 
She speaks again! After 100 years of being quiet this carbine finally shot fire again. I wanted too give a big shout out too Mike for giving me the contact info for getting this carbine's clipped firing pin fixed. Thanks again buddy! Have too say it really is neat shooting something from this era that hasn't been shot in such along time.

The carbine did shoot high had too adjust my point of high. You will see on the target where the first rounds were hitting at 100 yards and then as the point of aim kept changing. They kept getting closer too the bullseye. Also shot my 1918 SMLE too today put around 100 rounds through that one.
 

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She speaks again! After 100 years of being quiet this carbine finally shot fire again. I wanted too give a big shout out too Mike for giving me the contact info for getting this carbine's clipped firing pin fixed. Thanks again buddy! Have too say it really is neat shooting something from this era that hasn't been shot in such along time.

The carbine did shoot high had too adjust my point of high. You will see on the target where the first rounds were hitting at 100 yards and then as the point of aim kept changing. They kept getting closer too the bullseye. Also shot my 1918 SMLE too today put around 100 rounds through that one.

Very cool. Gad you could experience it. I have a matching 1913 Erfurt Luger and can't bring myself to shoot it for fear of something breaking. Maybe one day, probably not!
 
What is that part called?

In post 2 picture 016.jpg, and post 13 picture 011.jpg, what is that part called? I too have a 1915 Erfurt, numbers matching but for the stock and stock hardware. For years I've been trying to collect period correct parts for the stock and am there except for that thing. thx
 
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