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Thread: bnz 45

  1. #1
    Senior Member JSko's Avatar
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    Default bnz 45

    Well this is my newly acquired bnz 45 Kriegsmodell. As you might have seen from my last thread, I just started collecting Mausers, and my first purchase was a byf 45 skm with an mm bolt. After getting some information about the byf 45 from some members, I decided to pick up the Kriegsmodell book, which has been great in helping me learn about these late war rifles.

    This rifle came up at a local auction, I wasnít able to make it, but I did absentee bid. I won it for a good price, and when I picked it up today, I realized the bolt matched. It was missing the laminate handguard, but thankfully Don w had one available. It doesnít match quite right depends on the lighting, but it will due for now. The stock has some kind of finish on it, and it isnít perfect, there are some runs in it, I donít believe it to be from the factory like that.

    The rifle is completely finished in phosphate, right down to the stock bands. The receiver shows rough milled marks as well as the side rail. It has the final acceptance WaA623 proof on top of the receiver. Also the Eagle H on the stock. The rear sight base does have its acceptance stamp, however the barrel doesnít show any Waffenamt or BNZ/1 shield. The trigger-guard is a byf with 1 E/135 Proof, and also the floor-plate. Also the rear sight is marked with the last 2 digits of the rifle. The bolt appears to completely match, but I haven't disassembled it yet.

    Let me know what you think! I know it is a bit dirty, I have to clean her up. Only problem I have noticed is the safety wont turn, any kind of solvent or cleaner I should use that wont hurt the phosphate finish? I had it shipped to my local FFL, and he has 2 K98ís that he may have for sale soon. They weren't on display he is giving me first crack at them, hopefully the owner decides to let them go.

    Let me know what you think, I'm still new to this.

    Album: http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/...jsko/bnz%2045/
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    Senior Member JSko's Avatar
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    More Pictures:
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  3. #3
    No War Eagles For You! mrfarb's Avatar
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    I like it! Don't worry about the safety- it probably didn't work when new. I have seen more than a few with cocking pieces swapped out in an effort to get the safety working.

    That stock should be stripped - nice chunk of lumber under there!
    Order the new K98k book at www.thirdpartypress.com
    Don't forget to visit www.latewar.com for info on late war 98k's.

  4. #4
    Senior Member JSko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrfarb View Post
    I like it! Don't worry about the safety- it probably didn't work when new. I have seen more than a few with cocking pieces swapped out in an effort to get the safety working.

    That stock should be stripped - nice chunk of lumber under there!
    Good to know about the safety. I figured it should be stripped, I don't want to damage the wood by attempting to remove it, so I'll just leave it.

  5. #5
    No War Eagles For You! mrfarb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JSko View Post
    Good to know about the safety. I figured it should be stripped, I don't want to damage the wood by attempting to remove it, so I'll just leave it.
    Probably best if you don't know how to do it. Still, a nice late bnz45 T block- most T blocks are solid walnut from what I've seen, so it's actually harder to find in laminate.
    Order the new K98k book at www.thirdpartypress.com
    Don't forget to visit www.latewar.com for info on late war 98k's.

  6. #6
    Senior Member don w's Avatar
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    Sweet find. Very nice condition.

    I havent seen many in that serial range of the T blocks. Seems like I mostly see the T blocks in the teens or 30's and above.

    Good job getting her.

  7. #7
    Senior Member JSko's Avatar
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    With the Safety not functioning, will this affect trying to disassemble the bolt? I know you normally have to bring it into the middle position to remove the bolt sleeve.

  8. #8
    Senior Member don w's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JSko View Post
    With the Safety not functioning, will this affect trying to disassemble the bolt? I know you normally have to bring it into the middle position to remove the bolt sleeve.
    Good question;
    Let me ask, does the safety rotate ?

    If so, try rotating it to the center. When you have it there, you should feel a slight vibration when the rear of the safety engages the cocking piece. If you dont feel it, you should be able to at least see the cocking piece move further rearward.
    If you niether see nor feel it , pull the trigger. If it doesnt 'dry fire 'your probably ok.

    you should then be able to unscrew the assembly.

    Or
    just soak the Bolt in BFCLP or Ballistol and leave it alone.

  9. #9
    Senior Member JSko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by don w View Post
    Good question;
    Let me ask, does the safety rotate ?

    If so, try rotating it to the center. When you have it there, you should feel a slight vibration when the rear of the safety engages the cocking piece. If you dont feel it, you should be able to at least see the cocking piece move further rearward.
    If you niether see nor feel it , pull the trigger. If it doesnt 'dry fire 'your probably ok.

    you should then be able to unscrew the assembly.

    Or
    just soak the Bolt in BFCLP or Ballistol and leave it alone.
    Yea it doesn't rotate at all. Mrfarb said some didn't work when new, so I may try to soak it, if it is binded up. If not, Ill do what I can with it assembled.

    When I got it from the auction house the bolt was removed and decocked, so I actually had to cock it out of the gun to get it back in the rifle.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Turbo Archie's Avatar
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    You would just proceed as if you de-cocked the bolt out of the rifle..

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    **Wanted - Original un-dicked with late Steyr (bnz45) stock... Long shot but......
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