KneverKnew
Well-known member
Just wanting to know if there are other G43's out there that did not get threading/muzzle nuts on the end of their barrels? What was the purpose of the muzzle threading anyway?
G43 barrel missing muzzle end threading for muzzle nut?
- Thread starter KneverKnew
- Start date
Just wanting to know if there are other G43's out there that did not get threading/muzzle nuts on the end of their barrels? What was the purpose of the muzzle threading anyway?
That isn't missin it's muzzle nut. Was likely never supposed to have one, someone has knocked out the pin and removed the front sight base. Can you post more photos?
KneverKnew
Well-known member
This is a "bys" barrel on an AC44 receiver that I am using for a shooter build. This is the way it came.
Here is the front sight and base I have.
I was just wondering if ALL G43's are supposed to have threaded muzzles? IF so, then why doesn't this rifle have threads? Maybe it was captured in the factory, prior to reaching that phase of completion??? Just a speculation. I really don't know. Would love some thoughts on this.
My front sight base only has a partial pin hole started which I can drill the rest of the way through. I would like to know is there any reason I can't mount the front sight without having the muzzle nut in place? Was the nut suppose to help lock the sight on the end of the barrel? That doesn't sound right. Anyway, that is my plans, since I don't have threads and don't plan on having them cut. Does the missing threads make this an unusual G43 barrel?
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sturmgrenadier
Senior Member
This is a "bys" barrel on an AC44 receiver that I am using for a shooter build. This is the way it came.
Here is the front sight and base I have.
I was just wondering if ALL G43's are supposed to have threaded muzzles? IF so, then why doesn't this rifle have threads? Maybe it was captured in the factory, prior to reaching that phase of completion??? Just a speculation. I really don't know. Would love some thoughts on this.
My front sight base only has a partial pin hole started which I can drill the rest of the way through. I would like to know is there any reason I can't mount the front sight without having the muzzle nut in place? Was the nut suppose to help lock the sight on the end of the barrel? That doesn't sound right. Anyway, that is my plans, since I don't have threads and don't plan on having them cut. Does the missing threads make this an unusual G43 barrel?
As CanadianAR pointed out, it's not missing a muzzle nut, It never had one. Your sight base is held in with a metal pin that ties the base to the barrel. Did that front sight base come with that barrel? Non threaded barrels are very common.
KneverKnew
Well-known member
THANK YOU!! That is the information I was hoping to learn. It is pretty obvious there is no barrel nut since the barrel wasn't threaded in the first place. I was simply referencing the fact that the one other G43 I've handled, a bcd, had the barrel nut/threaded muzzle. Many, if not all, of the other pictures I've seen of G43's showed them with barrel nuts. I can't remember if I've ever seen one like mine, where the barrel was not threaded. That is why I was wondering if mine was unusual, or are their others with unthreaded muzzles. Now I know that it is not an uncommon thing, which was what I was asking in the first place. Thank you for all your replies!
GunKraut
Senior Member
The picture reference section shows many examples. Scroll down to the bottom of the first post.
http://www.k98kforum.com/showthread.php?45-Picture-Reference-Index&p=100&viewfull=1#post100
Yes - all bcd's will have barrel nuts, there would also be a securing lock on the front of the front site base to lock the nut in place.
Is that an original or repro front site base? It looks pristine!
There are three different diameters for front site bases due to the un-tapered barrel and two different diameters for tapered barrels, so if you are missing a front site, it can be hard to track the right one.
In 1944 ac (Walther) phased out the barrel nut, so your rifle is correct as previously stated. I forget the exact details on duv/qve produced rifles.
The Ng contracted barrel is neat as many of the concentration built ac rifles often use the Ng contracted barrels.
Good luck on your restoration!!!
Is that an original or repro front site base? It looks pristine!
There are three different diameters for front site bases due to the un-tapered barrel and two different diameters for tapered barrels, so if you are missing a front site, it can be hard to track the right one.
In 1944 ac (Walther) phased out the barrel nut, so your rifle is correct as previously stated. I forget the exact details on duv/qve produced rifles.
The Ng contracted barrel is neat as many of the concentration built ac rifles often use the Ng contracted barrels.
Good luck on your restoration!!!
KneverKnew
Well-known member
I appreciate all the help and thoughts on threaded muzzles. Now I have a better idea of what I'm dealing with. The next step in this build is to install that front sight block and to do that I need to finish drilling the hole that is halfway through so that I can then get a pin to set it in place on the barrel. I measured the hole and it seems to be 3 mm. There is a slot already drilled across the top of the barrel for mounting the front sight. Does 3 mm sound right? My plan is to get a 3 mm drill and a 3 mm pin and drill The front sight the rest of the way through and then set the sight in place with the 3mm pin. Is a solid dowel pin more appropriate or should I use a split roll pin? Any suggestions on how to properly do this other than just do it please let me know
I had to replace a front site assembly once.
If the correct diameter the assembly should slide on tightly, you may need a dowel/brass punch to set it home/rearward. If it is the incorrect diameter it will slide on too easily or you will be unable to slide it on. If too large, you will need to find a new front assembly. If too tight, you can either dremel or buff the inside to the correct diameter or find another front assembly. These were friction fit and then secured with a pin.
Diameter of the pin, I cannot recall. If you have a drill piece set, start smaller and keep going up until you find the right size. The pins were solid vs roll pins. The difficulty I found was finding a pin with the right length, finding the diameter was easy. You may need to trim a pin down. With the pin, make sure it is tight.
Good luck!!
If the correct diameter the assembly should slide on tightly, you may need a dowel/brass punch to set it home/rearward. If it is the incorrect diameter it will slide on too easily or you will be unable to slide it on. If too large, you will need to find a new front assembly. If too tight, you can either dremel or buff the inside to the correct diameter or find another front assembly. These were friction fit and then secured with a pin.
Diameter of the pin, I cannot recall. If you have a drill piece set, start smaller and keep going up until you find the right size. The pins were solid vs roll pins. The difficulty I found was finding a pin with the right length, finding the diameter was easy. You may need to trim a pin down. With the pin, make sure it is tight.
Good luck!!
KneverKnew
Well-known member
My best measurements tell me the hole in the front sight, as well as the rear hole in the rear sight assembly is 3mm. I bought several dowel pins and roll pins at ACE hardware store, but they are SAE, so just slightly too big or small. I realize I can drill the correct size, but I'm of the mind to order a 3mm pin, and look around and see if I can find the actual correct 3mm pin for the front sight online. If all else fails, I can always drill for the SAE pins I have.
Can someone tell me if the G43 rear sight leafs are the same as those for the K98's. For some reason the rear sight I ended up with has been boogered up very oddly.
The notch aperture is cut off center and the original notch looks like it was weld plugged. No idea why. I can re cut the aperture in the center, but that leaves me with an extra notch. It would do for a quick fix, but would like to get a proper sight at some point. I was thinking these are same as K98's. What say you?
Can someone tell me if the G43 rear sight leafs are the same as those for the K98's. For some reason the rear sight I ended up with has been boogered up very oddly.
The notch aperture is cut off center and the original notch looks like it was weld plugged. No idea why. I can re cut the aperture in the center, but that leaves me with an extra notch. It would do for a quick fix, but would like to get a proper sight at some point. I was thinking these are same as K98's. What say you?
KDF82
Senior Member
My best measurements tell me the hole in the front sight, as well as the rear hole in the rear sight assembly is 3mm. I bought several dowel pins and roll pins at ACE hardware store, but they are SAE, so just slightly too big or small. I realize I can drill the correct size, but I'm of the mind to order a 3mm pin, and look around and see if I can find the actual correct 3mm pin for the front sight online. If all else fails, I can always drill for the SAE pins I have.
Can someone tell me if the G43 rear sight leafs are the same as those for the K98's. For some reason the rear sight I ended up with has been boogered up very oddly.
The notch aperture is cut off center and the original notch looks like it was weld plugged. No idea why. I can re cut the aperture in the center, but that leaves me with an extra notch. It would do for a quick fix, but would like to get a proper sight at some point. I was thinking these are same as K98's. What say you?
You could fill and recut or simply replace that part, they're readily available. Just look for 359 waffen stamp to match your Walther. They were not serial matched to the receiver like most Mausers. G/K43 doesn't share any rear sight parts with K98s. The slide and pin originals are much more difficult to come by so you're good!
KneverKnew
Well-known member
So what you're saying is this rear site is actually a G 43 specific rear site and not from a K 98? That's good to know. I thought they were all the same. So where would I go to try and find a 359 Stamped rear sight for this rifle? How much should I expect to pay for one? I assume all I need is the site itself. All other part should be correct?
pins
Pins for most AK types sight and gasblock are 3mm and easy to find but their length may not be right for your sight.
Drilling a bit undersize then reaming with a 3mm reamer works best but working with mismatch parts you might not end up with a tight fitting pin if the hole does not clean up.
Likely makes sense to go with 1/8 or in some cases a 2/0 taper pin.
A dowell pin if you go 1/8 won't usually take cold blue, taper pins do.
I'd weld up that notch and recut if it was mine.
Pete
Pete .
My best measurements tell me the hole in the front sight, as well as the rear hole in the rear sight assembly is 3mm. I bought several dowel pins and roll pins at ACE hardware store, but they are SAE, so just slightly too big or small. I realize I can drill the correct size, but I'm of the mind to order a 3mm pin, and look around and see if I can find the actual correct 3mm pin for the front sight online. If all else fails, I can always drill for the SAE pins I have.
Can someone tell me if the G43 rear sight leafs are the same as those for the K98's. For some reason the rear sight I ended up with has been boogered up very oddly.
The notch aperture is cut off center and the original notch looks like it was weld plugged. No idea why. I can re cut the aperture in the center, but that leaves me with an extra notch. It would do for a quick fix, but would like to get a proper sight at some point. I was thinking these are same as K98's. What say you?
Pins for most AK types sight and gasblock are 3mm and easy to find but their length may not be right for your sight.
Drilling a bit undersize then reaming with a 3mm reamer works best but working with mismatch parts you might not end up with a tight fitting pin if the hole does not clean up.
Likely makes sense to go with 1/8 or in some cases a 2/0 taper pin.
A dowell pin if you go 1/8 won't usually take cold blue, taper pins do.
I'd weld up that notch and recut if it was mine.
Pete
Pete .
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KneverKnew
Well-known member
Thanks Pete,
I thought 3 mm was the size. Will try drilling and installing as is first welding isn't an easy option for me right now. Need to get a TIG machine.
I thought 3 mm was the size. Will try drilling and installing as is first welding isn't an easy option for me right now. Need to get a TIG machine.
KneverKnew
Well-known member
Ok, so I'm about ready to install the gas block and front sight. Any pointers on proper installation technique? Should I be able to tap them on with hammer and brass punch or am I going to have to heat up the gas block or front sight? That is of course if they are the appropriate diameter for the barrel.
mauser99
Senior Member
No, there is a slight press fit. Heat the item slightly them it will fall on then shrink to fit. Most all parts were shrink fit and soldered on. K98's were G43's weren't they were pinned in place. A little heat will save you a lot of head aches.
KneverKnew
Well-known member
Sounds like a plan. I'm working on getting a 3mm drill bit for the front sight, as well as a 3mm pin. If I measured right, the pin needs to be about 10mm long. I already have the pin that came out of the old gas block from the bad barreled receiver. I'm assuming that will fit. I didn't have to tap very hard with brass punch and hammer to get the old gas block to come off that old barrel. I'm hoping it won't be a fight to get it on the "new" one.
Just to make things more complicated the rear site was secured with a roll pin vs solid and both sides where punched out and expanded to hold it in place. I used a VZ58 roll pin that was about a fraction of a mm short, but the VZ58 roll pin held the G43 rear site fine on one of my projects. You can get original pins for the front and rear site, but most are bent and cannot be used easily.
I would go to the WTB section and advertise for a rear site blade if you want it replaced. It is a relatively easy part to find. Frontline may have the pins you are looking for and they also make a darn good repro rear site blade if you get really stuck. I have one, but I'm in the middle of a move, so I am weeks to possibly months from finding it.
Replacing the rear site assembly sucks...it is best to do as a two person job and if people say putting the trigger system back together is tough, the rear site is much harder and when I did mine, there was some blue language used.
I would go to the WTB section and advertise for a rear site blade if you want it replaced. It is a relatively easy part to find. Frontline may have the pins you are looking for and they also make a darn good repro rear site blade if you get really stuck. I have one, but I'm in the middle of a move, so I am weeks to possibly months from finding it.
Replacing the rear site assembly sucks...it is best to do as a two person job and if people say putting the trigger system back together is tough, the rear site is much harder and when I did mine, there was some blue language used.
KneverKnew
Well-known member
Was the roll pin for the "front" pin hole on the rear sight base, or the "rear" pin hole. The front measures 3mm best I can figure, while the rear pin hole, which simply holds down the end of the leaf spring to provide tension to the rest of the pieces, measured about 2.6mm, or so. My sight came with a solid front hole pin. I am missing the smaller rear hole pin. I will look around and see what I can find. I would think a 3mm roll pin can be found online.
