Third Party Press

BSW DSM Restore

You can try to pinch the collar a little, but if you rotate the extractor to the bottom it should just push off. Getting it back ON will be the bugger where you need to pinch the collar to get it on. Brownells sells a cheap little tool that is great for this. Typically I can get 90% of mauser extractors on without it... occasionally they are stubborn.

If it works, I would leave it. Its original. It works. Do I need to say more :thumbsup:

I'm running a batch of Mexican Mauser extractors after I get done with this batch of DSM safeties. If I can get the prints (if he has them) from Mr. Simpson, I will see about run a batch.

I would be interested in some of those as well. It is good to have parts on hand and it is not uncommon for the extractors to break and sometimes they are missing.
 
You can try to pinch the collar a little, but if you rotate the extractor to the bottom it should just push off. Getting it back ON will be the bugger where you need to pinch the collar to get it on. Brownells sells a cheap little tool that is great for this. Typically I can get 90% of mauser extractors on without it... occasionally they are stubborn.

If it works, I would leave it. Its original. It works. Do I need to say more :thumbsup:

I'm running a batch of Mexican Mauser extractors after I get done with this batch of DSM safeties. If I can get the prints (if he has them) from Mr. Simpson, I will see about run a batch.
Nice. I would want one (or two) if you get the prints.

Thanks on the tips for removing it.
 
And it's back together. Still need to get a rod, front band, and now an extractor.

Some of the parts look very different than the before picture and others have just a small change. Any part on the new area that looks like rust is actually either pitting or just patina (ie where the bluing finish had changed from wear/rust). In my hands and not through amatuer pictures, it looks like a whole new beast and I am pretty happy with it.

Here we go: Left is the After and Right is the Before.

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Great side by side pictures! You can really see what's happened thanks to your efforts. The barreled action turned out really well.
 
Looking good! I can tell there was lots of time and patience spent on this project!

Great side by side pictures! You can really see what's happened thanks to your efforts. The barreled action turned out really well.

Thanks guys. It wasn't as time intensive as doing a rust bluing job on a firearm, but it did take about 12-15 hrs of detailed work to remove the rust. But its a labor of love for me and I did enjoy learning the intricacies of the firearm.

It's onto the same thing for it's chest buddy, my G43. I'll create a new thread for that restoration.
 
the upper band can be made from taking a K98 H band and cutting the forward or rear off. Or just cut out the center and make two !
Then drill the pin hole. The pin can be made from a carcano cleaning rod I was told.

Also if you have both pieces of the extractor Don in Iowa might be able to tig weld it.
 
the upper band can be made from taking a K98 H band and cutting the forward or rear off. Or just cut out the center and make two !
Then drill the pin hole. The pin can be made from a carcano cleaning rod I was told.

Also if you have both pieces of the extractor Don in Iowa might be able to tig weld it.

This. I don't know Don but a good tig welder could definitely do it
@Fal Grunt was able to make me a front band by using an H band and also made a pin - big thanks there.

For the extractor, unfortunately I only have from the ring forward and the rear part of it was lost in history as I never received it with the rifle.
 
Pick which side you want to be front. Make sure the band fits all the way onto the stock. Measure the location of the hole in the stock. Mark the location of the hole onto the band from the same location you used to measure the hole.

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Hopefully Martin won't mind me stealing his pictures.

I would measure off the front of the stock, and the top of the stock.

Once you have one side drilled you can fit it to the stock AFTER deburring the inside of the hole to make sure it lined up. You CAN, if you are GENTLE, use the stock as a guide to drill the second hole. No side to side movement or the drill will try to dig into your band and stock.

I would have popped the holes in for you, but I have seen the hole location vary so much I decided it was "better safe than sorry".
 
That helps. I’ll measure from front back and then top of stock down. I’ll have to be careful with the drilling angle.
 
You can try to pinch the collar a little, but if you rotate the extractor to the bottom it should just push off. Getting it back ON will be the bugger where you need to pinch the collar to get it on. Brownells sells a cheap little tool that is great for this. Typically I can get 90% of mauser extractors on without it... occasionally they are stubborn.

If it works, I would leave it. Its original. It works. Do I need to say more :thumbsup:

I'm running a batch of Mexican Mauser extractors after I get done with this batch of DSM safeties. If I can get the prints (if he has them) from Mr. Simpson, I will see about run a batch.
Were you ever able to get the DSM extractor prints?
 
Unfortunately, no. I am hoping to get the prints that Mr. Simpson has, but last we talked he was busy and I wasn't able to press the issue.
 
Just a small update. Wasn’t fully happy with the non original front band so I was able to get an original (TY flynaked).

It had been brought down to the white though, which was fine with me as it gave me a chance to color match.

I did a rust blue job on it till I got it where I wanted.

Before and after Bluing:
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Right is New Band:
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I'm amazed. I would never have thought you could bring it back to the condition you have from what it was. Very nice.

Did you ever get the drawings?

I just snatched a JGA DSM34 that will need to be restored off an online auction for cheap. I haven't gotten it since it's coming out of NC. Pictures weren't the best but your resto has given me hope.
 

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