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Thread: BSW DSM Restore

  1. #21
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    I am a little confused what your problem with the ejector is. Do you mean the extractor?

    The wood is very difficult in this instance, because any real cleaning is going to look, well, cleaned. My personal preference in this condition would be to make a tub of warm soapy water, with only a LITTLE mild detergent in it. Not sure how to quantify this.... if you take a soft bristle tooth brush and swish it around in the soapy water, it should not make many bubbles? Then take your soft bristle brush (old tooth brush is great) and gently GENTLY rub in a circular motion. As you brush, follow along with a old tshirt or lint free cloth and wipe up any excess water and dirt as you go. Do not allow water to soak into the stock. Do not allow water to sit on the stock. On the larger areas of the stock you can use just a damp wet lint free cloth (again an old tshirt works well) to wipe the stock clean.

    I have read several different opinions from furniture restorers to NPS on products to use. Some recommend Murphys Oil Soap, some recommend Dawn, some recommend other products that are more specialized. I have had good results with whatever organic, natural, hippy soap my wife purchases. Since it is nearly useless on cleaning dishes, I figured it wouldn't harm a stock. After experimenting on a few spare stocks that were filthy, I worked out a decent process. Be advised, I have nowhere near the formal nor professional experience with wood working that I do with metal, so take that all with a large bucket of salt.

    Once that is all done and you have given the stock ample time to DRY, now you need to engage in the argument of FINISH.

    Regarding the metal work, it looks like you are happy with the results you are getting from the pads you bought. If you have any issues, or want a different way of doing things, let me know, I can still send you some notes. I personally do not use any metal (steel or copper) products when doing preservation/restoration work, but again, opinions abound.

  2. #22
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    Thank you for tips.

    Yes, I guess I’m this instance it would be the extractor not ejector. It is connected to a ring that allows it to stay in place as the bolt is rotated. It looks like the back end of the extractor lifts up slightly during rotation and then won’t allow the bolt to move back because the extractor is then not aligned to its track. This might be resolved when I do a thorough cleaning of the bolt but even so I wouldn’t think it should be possible to do this?

    Also, any clue how to remove the back sight? Specifically the mount portion— the moving portion just has a pin.
    Last edited by halygon; 01-15-2018 at 01:50 AM.

  3. #23
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    Just a little update:

    Got to spend a number of hours on this over this weekend. Havenít worked on the wood yet. My go to for the metal has been primarily a mix of Big45 Frontier pad and a fine brass brush - they have done miracles. I could probably put it back together as is now and except for the wood, it would look 10x better.

    My next step is to let it all sit in a nice bath of Kroil for a day or so and see if I can get through a few areas of rust that were pretty tough. I also found the button on the rear site distance is stuck inward so hoping Kroil can loosen that up with the front site which is locked in place(too far to the left).

    Iíll work on the wood in the mean time.

    Pics to follow.

  4. #24
    RKI- Reasonably Knowledgable Individual heavy_mech's Avatar
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    The Kroil will definitely penetrate and loosen those. Not a doubt. Sounds like you made some great progress!
    x

  5. #25
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    These are some comparison pics to show the in-progress pieces to their original form. I am hoping they clean up much more.






  6. #26
    RKI- Reasonably Knowledgable Individual heavy_mech's Avatar
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    Already looking much better and you seem to have preserved all the original finish that was underneath. One thing to consider is using something copper, brass or bronze with an edge to remove the heavier, active rust flakes especially on parts that were 'in the white' such as that butt plate. Several members here suggested a penny on edge and I have used that before. Keep at it!

    flaky rust.PNG
    x

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by heavy_mech View Post
    Already looking much better and you seem to have preserved all the original finish that was underneath. One thing to consider is using something copper, brass or bronze with an edge to remove the heavier, active rust flakes especially on parts that were 'in the white' such as that butt plate. Several members here suggested a penny on edge and I have used that before. Keep at it!

    flaky rust.PNG
    Yup, going to scrub a bit more then let it soak in Kroil and like the rest - then go over all the parts again and see if I can get more off. The butt plate looks like it has some worn bluing on it too but we will see how much is left once I am done.

    I am glad the patina is still in place but the shiny bluing has come out quite well all over the barrel. I still need to get the bolt apart and clean it well - it’s not in bad shape except for the handle.

    The pitting underneath the barrel (where the stock touches) is fairly deep, so I am assuming that it had been rusting there long before the gun got covered with flood water.
    Last edited by halygon; 01-16-2018 at 07:14 PM.

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