Third Party Press

BSW DSM Restore

Much better and I believe it will get better still with another trip to the Kroil tank. I'm glad you didn't feel the need to resort to wire wheels or sandpaper!

Yeah, I thought I might have to do my fine steel wire brush but the pads I have seem to do the job just fine. Not sure another round of Kroil is needed - Just some more effort on it as is will get what is left.

The stock disc is a pain to get rust-free though. Got it mostly done but the areas where the disc edge touches the stock takes a long time.

Anyone know what the process is for disassembly of the bolt? I had dunked the whole thing in the Kroil, but I do want to take it apart and clean it out.
 
As shown on page 63 of Training Rifles of Third Reich Germany, in reprint of an original Mauser DSM manual in English:

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Steve
 

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While not surprising all parts of the bolt were in good condition and are matching to serial:
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Thinking this sucker might just clean up pretty good. Spent time detailing the barrel and it doesn’t look like the same barrel I started with. All rust spots have been removed and only the residual pitting is left where it was deep - but it’s all bluing now and no rust.

What gun oils do you guys prefer? Once I give all the parts with a good acetone bath, I’ll need to wipe them all down with a coating of gun oil. I usually go with Hoppes No. 9.
 
Did you ever get a front band?

That is interesting, I have never seen another DSM with a serialized safety... now keep in mind, I have not handled thousands :laugh:
 
Did you ever get a front band?

That is interesting, I have never seen another DSM with a serialized safety... now keep in mind, I have not handled thousands :laugh:

No, still needing the front band and pin. Also need the fake rod. Here in Texas we have gun shows like every weekend so if one of you don’t have one I’ll try those.

Keep in mind that the serial is in the 126XXX range so it’s an earlier model. All of the parts have the Simpson triangle on them too. Don’t know year, but somewhere I read that Simpson changed to BSW around 1936 - so maybe close to that year. It’s the small BSW logo which apparently means 1936-1939. Maybe earlier models had everything serialed?
 
Small Update. The spring actuated button on the rear tangent sight had been completely rusted in place, couldn't even use a brass punch to get it free.

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After soaking it in kroil for a couple days and then working it carefully with a small hammer and punch set, I was able to get it rust free and moving again. It's amazing how much time you can spend on such a small item. I still have to clean up the sight but I'll drop a close up of it when I get the parts cleaned and back together.
 
The rifle really looks to be cleaning up very well. I am glad you were able to preserve your family treasure and a piece of history.
 
The rifle really looks to be cleaning up very well. I am glad you were able to preserve your family treasure and a piece of history.
I have a good feeling about how the final piece is going to look, but I won't believe it until I have everything finished, degreased, reoiled, and put back together. I am just thinking if this one turns out well, then the G43 I have off to the side is going to really clean up nice when I put it through the same process.
 
A proper retaining pin can easily be fashioned by cutting down an inexpensive drill bit of the correct diameter and finishing the ends with a file.

Steve
 
So I finished cleaning up all the parts and started putting it back together and decided to look into why my bolt doesn’t want to retract. Looks like my extractor might be broken. See below and tell me if I am right.

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If it is broke, how do you remove it to replace? Can it be replaced?
 
Yes that extractor is broken. If you pinch that band that goes around the bolt body the extractor should come off. I don't know if anyone is making a copy of that piece though. There is a member her making safeties, if he gets the dimensions maybe he can make one? The other route is to find another thrashed rifle with the extracor and buy it for that piece.
 
Yes that extractor is broken. If you pinch that band that goes around the bolt body the extractor should come off. I don't know if anyone is making a copy of that piece though. There is a member her making safeties, if he gets the dimensions maybe he can make one? The other route is to find another thrashed rifle with the extracor and buy it for that piece.
I guess I am lucky It is still functional, just have to give it a bit of “help” when opening the bolt. I guess I have something else to look for at next weeks FW gun show.

When you say ”pinch”, is that with fingers or padded pliers? Sounds like the extractor is held in place by the tension of the ring?
 
I guess I am lucky It is still functional, just have to give it a bit of “help” when opening the bolt. I guess I have something else to look for at next weeks FW gun show.

When you say ”pinch”, is that with fingers or padded pliers? Sounds like the extractor is held in place by the tension of the ring?

That band that goes around the bolt body is what holds the extractor on. When I watched the gun smith do it he just used his hands. I have never done it myself so I am not sure what the proper way is. This would be a question for the forum; are the extractors the same as would be on a DSM-34? If they are, your search could be easier.
 
You can try to pinch the collar a little, but if you rotate the extractor to the bottom it should just push off. Getting it back ON will be the bugger where you need to pinch the collar to get it on. Brownells sells a cheap little tool that is great for this. Typically I can get 90% of mauser extractors on without it... occasionally they are stubborn.

If it works, I would leave it. Its original. It works. Do I need to say more :thumbsup:

I'm running a batch of Mexican Mauser extractors after I get done with this batch of DSM safeties. If I can get the prints (if he has them) from Mr. Simpson, I will see about run a batch.
 

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