Third Party Press

Sling Preservation

BSchiebs

Senior Member
Hey everyone, I'm looking for reccomendations for what you all use to preserve your slings. I have a pretty decent one that is supple and strong, but I want something to preserve and waterproof/make it water resistant. I have heard beeswax based products like Obenaufs heavy duty LP works well. But I thought I'd get a second opinion. Thanks in advance!

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Most folks don't put anything on any leather item but I have always treated my leather items that have needed it.I use clear neutral dubbin rubbed in sparingly on the back side of slings,liners,pouches,straps,belts etc and good rich wax polish on the face side of most things but never on helmet liners.Stored leather properly at a constant temperature out of the sun etc and itll be fine.It's a pet hate of mine to see leather going crusty,dusty and disintegrating.
 
Leather preservation is a subject with lots of options to consider. Entire articles have been written in this regards. I tend to use Ballistol on some leather which is aged or has a dyed exterior finish. "Black Rock" also works very well on finished surfaces, as it both helps remove dirt and stains (thus cleansing the leather), while adding a preservative layer.
 
Alright thanks gents. Ill take that into consideration while I do more research.

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If it's a collectible sling (meaning a nice K98k sling) you will ruin the value by treating it. It's best to just store it properly and do nothing. If it's a repro or some non-valuable piece of leather, any of the treatments out there will work (like Blackrock). If it's collectible leather, you shouldn't be using it in the utilitarian role it was designed for, 80 year old leather isn't the best structurally even if it looks good. Just heard a story over the weekend of a fellow who bought a 98k from a vets family, they came down the stairs holding it by the sling and it snapped - one leather sling gone forever.
 
As is the case with anything organic, aging is problematic and if unchecked, the item will become worthless and this especially true of leather. Quality of manufacture and storage conditions are major variables and I have some Civil War and earlier pieces that are in better condition than some of my WWII stuff. That owners will allow slings, holster pull and closure straps, helmet liners and natural stitching on all of the above to dry out and fall apart will always amaze me. A good example would be the original Civil War musket sling I bought as unmarked. With a little effort using mostly natural (the emulsifier evaporates) treatment when I took that musket out last, the restored moisture made the manufacturer's and inspector's stamps clearly visible. I've gotten the same results with belts, cross straps, cartridge boxes and cap pouches. To treat or not to treat is a matter of personal preference. I learned at least fifty years ago that properly conditioned, still serviceable leather sells far more quickly and at higher prices that that which has been allowed to fall apart, which I don't even buy. Getting into petty urinating contests regarding long-term leather preservation methods is a thankless task so to each his own!
 
As is the case with anything organic, aging is problematic and if unchecked, the item will become worthless and this especially true of leather. Quality of manufacture and storage conditions are major variables and I have some Civil War and earlier pieces that are in better condition than some of my WWII stuff. That owners will allow slings, holster pull and closure straps, helmet liners and natural stitching on all of the above to dry out and fall apart will always amaze me. A good example would be the original Civil War musket sling I bought as unmarked. With a little effort using mostly natural (the emulsifier evaporates) treatment when I took that musket out last, the restored moisture made the manufacturer's and inspector's stamps clearly visible. I've gotten the same results with belts, cross straps, cartridge boxes and cap pouches. To treat or not to treat is a matter of personal preference. I learned at least fifty years ago that properly conditioned, still serviceable leather sells far more quickly and at higher prices that that which has been allowed to fall apart, which I don't even buy. Getting into petty urinating contests regarding long-term leather preservation methods is a thankless task so to each his own!

I'm of the school of thought that careful preservation and care is better than letting things lie and fall apart. I've seen what letting leather sit does. My grandfather had a brand new looking bayonet frog that had been sitting on a shelf above his desk for decades, and when when I picked it up it practically fell apart, sorry if others disagree with how I'm treating my leather, but it is mine and I will preserve it. My sling happens to have an SC marked buckle in excellent shape with a WaA938 marked sling with most of it's pattern intact with the leather piece on the buckle still present and in excellent shape. I got this one out of Poland and when it arrived it was dry and fairly stiff and I decided to clean it and condition it to preserve it. I'm curious about the wax for protecting the finished side. I'll post some pictures later.
 
Well here it is, The WaA mark is in the center of the frame in the 3rd picture. Its mostly worn away and takes a very close inspection to find it.
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Leather is skin,skin needs moisture or it dries and rots.German helmets had greasy sweaty heads in them that fed the liners,the boots and leather equipment was polished to keep it in good order so a bit of dubbin and wax polish as and when needed won't hurt anything.Mrfarb made a very good point in don't use your sling for its intended purpose as it's old and valuable so if you need a sling to use then put a repro one on it.One thing we all agree on though is proper storage is a must.
 
Leather is skin,skin needs moisture or it dries and rots.German helmets had greasy sweaty heads in them that fed the liners,the boots and leather equipment was polished to keep it in good order so a bit of dubbin and wax polish as and when needed won't hurt anything.Mrfarb made a very good point in don't use your sling for its intended purpose as it's old and valuable so if you need a sling to use then put a repro one on it.One thing we all agree on though is proper storage is a must.
Right. I didn't really intend on using it. But I want to preserve and protect it as much in its current condition as I can and for as long as possible.

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One more thing. I have collected German longarms since 1980. Back then, decent slings were not too much of a problem to find, so always sought one out for every rifle. Some, like that for the Kar98a, were still rare (and even more so today). I have found, even with attention to them, I would have been a wiser collector had I taken every sling off my rifles, treated them (if need be) and sealed them in a zip-lock type storage bag. I also never figured a average Kar98k sling would be a $100.+ commodity, either!
 
It's the same this side of the pond,in the late 80s and early 90s slings were cheap at around £10 to £20 and plentiful but now a cheap one thats intact is around £80 if you can find them and the sky is the limit thereafter.
 
I have struggled with this topic, my life has been spent around horses and tack. Once leather dry rots it is over, period dot. I have saddles around that were made in the 40s and 50s that can still be ridden (although changes in the physiological makeup of horses make saddle trees dubious in terms of fitment). Wood is not far behind as a preservation concern. In my research I came across this article from the museum of Florida history. It covers many of the elements that have been discussed to this point in the thread. Storage is key, environmental control is essential, handling of damaged leather should be carefully undertaken.

http://www.museumoffloridahistory.com/resources/caring/acs4.cfm
 

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