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Walnut BNZ45

That one came to me varnished. I used mineral spirits and a rag to get rid of the varnish.....hope it wasn't me that washed away history but I wasn't aggressive and my thought is it was like that before the varnish went on.
 

Hey, My matching, excepting stock, bnz45 t block has an rc stock, and a nice one in walnut. I am not gonna apologize, and maybe not then, till I get a better example. It is about upgrading, which is part of collecting. Many of us do not have perfect examples. We gotta look for those really nice examples while we enjoy the mere mortal examples we use for place holders IMO. Nice place holder.
 
Bathed in shitty shellac there was no history to wash away, IMHO.....

I agree Dave. That was not original to the rifle and I'm not a fan of decades aged shellac. I also think there are some subtle ways to make it appear less freshly cleaned without any aggressive solvents. It does look like there was a bit of active rust here and there so it's good you addressed that. Overall a nice rifle IMHO.
 
It's a legit T block bnz45 in walnut. I don't like to play Monday morning quarterback, as what's done is done, but in my opinion you used the wrong chemical to strip it. I'm saying this in the vein of teaching you (and frankly it isn't ruined, it could be better than it is though). While mineral spirits worked, the stock was soaked with the stuff. Mineral spirits take too long to evaporate IMO, which means the stock stayed wet. Also, mineral spirits are petroleum based, which in effect is oil based. I believe that this leaves the look that you are seeing on that stock, kinda soaked.

From the photos, it was actually shellac, the real deal 50's kind. The best thing to use on that is alcohol, which evaporates quickly. The key is NOT to soak the wood in my opinion, so use whatever you are stripping with sparingly. You want to remove the offending finish and try to leave the underlying color alone, a feat which is not the easiest trick- that's why I say stripping a stock is a 50/50 gamble in any case.

There are other chemicals I use, but I refuse to put a thread on any forum about stripping stocks, as like I said before, there is a 50/50 chance of success and I hate to be the guy leading 50% of rifles down that road. Experience is the best teacher on stock cleaning, I've "ruined" my share years ago. Some people think 98k collectors refuse to clean anything, its a vicious lie, the key is "less is more" in many cases.
 
I would have used a spray on stripper and then cleaned with lacquer thinner than hand age the wood. It can be saved.. But will never be 100%.

Mineral sprits or paint thinner is solvent based and only good for cleaning paint brushes IMHO.
 
Old shellac gets brittle (think flaky RCs) and sometimes you can peel it off with a plastic putty knife or even a thumbnail. You only have to use alcohol in the tough spots.
 
I never have reason to question you so I'm assuming you just hit the wrong letter but it clearly? shows to be an s block on both the receiver and bolt.

Actually I’ve reinvented the Latin letters and have officially changed the S and T letters around. Lol, no I mistyped T. It’s clearly an r block.


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It's a legit T block bnz45 in walnut. I don't like to play Monday morning quarterback, as what's done is done, but in my opinion you used the wrong chemical to strip it. I'm saying this in the vein of teaching you (and frankly it isn't ruined, it could be better than it is though). While mineral spirits worked, the stock was soaked with the stuff. Mineral spirits take too long to evaporate IMO, which means the stock stayed wet. Also, mineral spirits are petroleum based, which in effect is oil based. I believe that this leaves the look that you are seeing on that stock, kinda soaked.

From the photos, it was actually shellac, the real deal 50's kind. The best thing to use on that is alcohol, which evaporates quickly. The key is NOT to soak the wood in my opinion, so use whatever you are stripping with sparingly. You want to remove the offending finish and try to leave the underlying color alone, a feat which is not the easiest trick- that's why I say stripping a stock is a 50/50 gamble in any case.

There are other chemicals I use, but I refuse to put a thread on any forum about stripping stocks, as like I said before, there is a 50/50 chance of success and I hate to be the guy leading 50% of rifles down that road. Experience is the best teacher on stock cleaning, I've "ruined" my share years ago. Some people think 98k collectors refuse to clean anything, its a vicious lie, the key is "less is more" in many cases.

would acetone be ok to use on this one?
 
Old shellac gets brittle (think flaky RCs) and sometimes you can peel it off with a plastic putty knife or even a thumbnail. You only have to use alcohol in the tough spots.
shellac and varnish can be removed with alcohol? what kind? does walmart sell it in the paint department? what is the best way to remove linseed oil? i used stripper for 1 minute and then washed off with hot water on a pair of walnut luger grips. took the gloss off the grips. look great.
 
would acetone be ok to use on this one?

I prefer acetone myself, but it has to be pure acetone, a lot of things like fingernail polish remover have additives you wouldn't want...

But in the case of shellac, alcohol is best, as it is the least harsh, and dissolves real shellac very well, in fact when you get shellac in flake form, that's what you dissolve it in to get a liquid finish...

I actually use a mix of lab grade solvents together for my secret stripper formula....

Acetone is great because it evaporates very quickly, and will also help leach out excess oils from the wood...
 
shellac and varnish can be removed with alcohol? what kind? does walmart sell it in the paint department? what is the best way to remove linseed oil? i used stripper for 1 minute and then washed off with hot water on a pair of walnut luger grips. took the gloss off the grips. look great.

Alcohol will remove shellac, varnish not so much. For varnish acetone works great.

I would never, ever use water to rinse. Pure acetone, and scrub with an old toothbrush to get the gunk out.

I don't like store bought pre mixed strippers because of the gelling agents in them to make them thick...creates too much gunk....
 
Alcohol will remove shellac, varnish not so much. For varnish acetone works great.

I would never, ever use water to rinse. Pure acetone, and scrub with an old toothbrush to get the gunk out.

I don't like store bought pre mixed strippers because of the gelling agents in them to make them thick...creates too much gunk....
what kind of alcohol?
 

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