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Thread: Help with my AC44 G43

  1. #11
    I buy capture paper guns ugafx4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pzjgr View Post
    Does that bottom web on the rear receiver look cracked to you?
    I know that area splits open sometimes but.....when the part was made would there be a seam there?

  2. #12
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    Yes, that is a seam, not actually a crack from wear.

    “Hitler’s Garands”, page 161 (The Action Cover) states:

    The process of roll-stamping the body left a manufacturing gap, noticible from the rear of the carrier at the 6 o’clock position. This gap varies from barely noticible to as much as 3mm and does not represent fatigue or structural defect.
    Last edited by Tiger 2 Tank; 03-14-2019 at 09:12 PM.

  3. #13
    I buy capture paper guns ugafx4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger 2 Tank View Post
    Yes, that is a seem, not actually a crack from wear.

    Excellent, answered at same time I posted. I see a lot of people worry about the seam when it has not split open yet.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ugafx4 View Post
    Excellent, answered at same time I posted. I see a lot of people worry about the seam when it has not split open yet.
    Yep. I gave more precise info added to my response above. Didnít know if you saw it or not as I did it after I posted.

  5. #15
    Senior Member sprat's Avatar
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    Here we go again. NO steel wool!!!!!! Ever on anything. leave it alone if you must

    Bronze or brass wool. Brownells sells it

    In the fifth picture near the serial number are there two proofs pawned out? If so could you take a close up
    Last edited by sprat; 03-15-2019 at 11:50 AM.

  6. #16
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    Echoing what Tiger 2 Tank said - Leave it alone. Unless you feel rust will ruin the integrity of the rifle, don't mess with it. There are ways to clean it up but light rust like you showed there is just part of its character.

    This is coming from someone that did have a rifle in a condition that needed to be cleaned up.

  7. #17
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    Thanks guys for your help and insight, very much appreciated. And thanks Tiger, I had a feeling from reading around on here that you're an expert on these.

    I'm glad it looks original to you and that I didn't grossly overpay. I took some more pics of the parts you asked about, check them out below.

    Whatever the stain is it did go down underneath the butt plate, it kind of looks like whatever those dots are on the stock was something splattered across it?

    On the butt plate it almost looks to me like some plastic material got melted onto it, but that doesn't explain the matching stain on the adjacent wood, or the staining underneath.

    Also weird, the parts you asked about pictured below are only numbered with 848 instead of the full 6848 serial#

    Did you guys notice on the inside of the stock there looks to be a script letter L written in pencil into the wood? (pic on last page)

    Unfortunately nothing was inside of the butt of the stock, it was empty.

    I tried to take some pics of the inside of the barrel but it's hard... the rifling looks pretty good but if you look real close there may a little pitting inside? I'm not an expert on barrel condition.

    I couldn't resist and I have shot this one a few times over the last few months, probably about 100 rounds total. Last time at the range a guy started telling me about how these rifles "self-destruct" over time because of the overpowered gas system, and that if I want to keep shooting it I should install the shooters kit gas system.

    This one will be retired from shooting now after I put it back together, it's a beauty to shoot but it's not worth messing it up, I have an old beat up k98k to get my 8mm fix (not matching).

    Also, I won't be scrubbing this one or applying any more cleaners to it, I'll just leave it as-is like most of you suggested. If that's possibly blood on it then it can stay, lol.

    I think I hit all your questions but anything else I'd be happy to provide, thanks again for your help.

    Pics:


















  8. #18
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    Did you use WWII ammo or modern ammo? If you used WWII ammo, that crap is corrosive. So, use a patch and Hoppes clear gun oil and run a cleaning rod in the barrel and lightly oil the gas system and bolt components (especially on the bolt face and all in and around the extractor).

    Yes, on the firing pin housing and both locking lugs there should only be the last three e-penciled serial number on these. Is the other locking lug matching? Looks good! Bore is okay with a little minor pitting. Not a problem. The “L” penciled is normal. Some stocks had letters penciled in and I’m not real sure what they mean. 98k rifles also sometimes have that going on too.

    Doesn’t look like anything was damaged firing the rifle. So, that’s good. Doesn’t look like any damage from the cleaning you did, so that’s good too. You’re very fortunate. Some people go too far to clean these up and they aren’t able to go back and re-do the damage they did.

    You can get a decent shooter and blast away with a non-collectible shooter. Just need a shooter’s kit to install so the rifle won’t self destruct (sounds like you know that, just emphasizing it for future readers).

    It’s neat that you got a very collectible one right off the bat like that. Some usually gamble and get into one without knowing what they are getting and end up with a less than collectible rifle.
    Last edited by Tiger 2 Tank; 03-15-2019 at 06:48 PM.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Model's Avatar
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    I agree with most of the above, however if there is any active Rust I would remove it as it will only get worse over time.

    I remove all active rust from my collectible rifles with Bronze wool and Blue Wonder.

    https://shop.bluewonder.us/gun-clean...gel-4-oz-tube/

    Blue wonder is a wonderful product I highly recommend it.
    HDH.

  10. #20
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    Thanks again Tiger for your help and all the info you provided!

    I canít remember where but I saw the list you have going of all the G/K43 serials, very cool.

    Model Iíll give what you said a try thank you.

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