heavy_mech
RKI- Reasonably Knowledgable Individual
https://ballistol.com/ I get the larger green non-aerosol can. I bought it online since it wasn't anywhere local to me.
Cleaning Wife’s ce 41
- Thread starter Willy
- Start date
I get the 16 oz. liquid. Put it in a spray bottle.
https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=982-000-003
Amazon two pack 16 oz with trigger sprayer.
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Mu...listol&qid=1556741826&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-5
https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=982-000-003
Amazon two pack 16 oz with trigger sprayer.
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Mu...listol&qid=1556741826&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-5
WilliM1940
Senior Member
For the stock finish, test an area with denatured alcohol, if it dissolves the finish, it is shellac. Easy removal.
If that is unsuccessful, before trying stripper, try duct tape (some people hit it with a hair dryer after sticking to to the varnish). If the surface was not prepped before application of the varnish, it may lift right off.
If that is unsuccessful, before trying stripper, try duct tape (some people hit it with a hair dryer after sticking to to the varnish). If the surface was not prepped before application of the varnish, it may lift right off.
I used the denatured alcohol and a small brush working slowly in small areas and it came off. I would apply wait a couple minutes and then wipe with a clean rag. Varnish is almost completely gone. I didn’t try rubbing hard. The stock looks better, and doesn’t appear to have been prepped before the varnish nor sanded much or if at all. Here are some pics I will coat with the Ballistol when it arrives.
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I was not aware of the duct tape trick, which is one more reason to have an extra roll of it. I recommend quality duct tape, the 3M flavor
I would do was Willi said first, the easiest and most unobtrusive before the stripper. I've just found that in my projects the alcohol didn't work well, acetone didn't either for the bigger full stock projects. If it is an older more fragile finish it will probably work. I've never been luck enough to encounter those.
Willy, it looks like it was lightly wooled, but no matter, it will look nice. Do not soak it when you wipe. Go light, wait a day, see how it looks. Looks like it is going to come out fine.
WreckTangle
Mad Dog 20/20 Connoisseur (RIP Brother 06-05-203)
Is it me or is this common? When I tried using denatured alcohol on an RC I had about a year ago it stripped the finish fine, but it also made the stock look like it was just freshly "milled". For me it also appeared to remove the aged "patina". What I mean is it basically looked like it just came off the milling and sanding machine like a fresh milled board I planned yesterday. It could have just been the condition of the underlying stock...but....
I've used Mohawk Finish Remover #2. It's specialized for removing finishes off fine furniture. It's expensive at $80/gallon (plus you have to get the remover wash) and you can usually only get it from wholesale distributors. It's not something you pick up at the local box store. It literally lifted the shellac off in "layers" and the finish just slid off the stock with a rag. It didn't have that dried look that the denatured alcohol did and didn't alter the patina.
This is the only time I've removed a finish on a k98 russian capture. I'm working on restoring a DSM-34 stock currently and have used the Mohawk Finish Remover #2 with the same great results.
I've used Mohawk Finish Remover #2. It's specialized for removing finishes off fine furniture. It's expensive at $80/gallon (plus you have to get the remover wash) and you can usually only get it from wholesale distributors. It's not something you pick up at the local box store. It literally lifted the shellac off in "layers" and the finish just slid off the stock with a rag. It didn't have that dried look that the denatured alcohol did and didn't alter the patina.
This is the only time I've removed a finish on a k98 russian capture. I'm working on restoring a DSM-34 stock currently and have used the Mohawk Finish Remover #2 with the same great results.
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Thank you, the old finish was coming off I flake some off with my finger nail. I hate that it was done this way but seems like a lot have been done this way. I will go light on it. I didn’t sand or steel wool. Just slowly took my time. I would have left it, but it was on metal. I found the stock numbers after I disassembled it.j
zacker
Senior Member
http://www.k98kforum.com/showthread.php?13474-CE-41-Stock-Damage sold it for $1,400 then that guy sold it for $2,000
I will try and get some better pics up. Money is tight right now and I have a lot of medical bills.
Your rifle probably spent some time in the former USSR , East Germany, Yugoslavia. They sometimes center punched the swastikas as the symbol was offensive to them. Looks a lot like a globe after this treatment.
My rifle is not a RC. It was brought home by a local vet on. I purchased the rifle for my wife. My eagles are still there.
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phillynick
Senior Member
I think 'mike webb' was referring to the post by 'kddiep' where he started discussing his rifle in this thread.
Stephan98k
aka 8x57IS
The firing proof of Sauer & Sohn rifles in 1940 and 1941 (I think it start around "t" block in 1940) often looks like that. The swastika isn't punched, it looks like a globe because of the condition of the stamp.
Example "v" block 1940:
Oh ok I misread the post. Sorry, great information I learn something every time I get on here.
