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Three Hole Rifle

tkurtz18

Member
This three hole rifle has been sporterized/refinished so I am going to turn it into a repro LSR Sniper. I do believe a Ajack, Bek, or a BMJ scope would be correct for this rifle? (but not sure). I already have a correct stock and probably will buy a repro mount from accumounts unless their are any other recommendations?
 
Your rifle to do with what you wish, but I'd put it back closer to what it was to begin with.
Harder to find them in their unfinished original condition, IMO.

The bluing will make it impossible to bring this rifle close to original condition.
 
Since it’s been buffed, May as well make a repro lsr. Is it 30k serial range?


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You don't have to drill the additional holes to the receiver. You can simply use the three main screws to properly install a scope base, cut the pins in half so they are in the base only and shorten the securing screws (or glue them in). This way you don't destroy anything and still have a nice representable LSR sniper based on an original LSR receiver.
 
Phosphate can be replicated.
Why waste the money on getting the phosphate replicated.The bluing and buffing damage has already been done. To someone with a little knowledge, this rifle will always stick out as no where close to original. Maybe someone on FB might think otherwise. Kurtz18 can have a very nice gun by leaving it as an obvious repro.

You don't have to drill the additional holes to the receiver. You can simply use the three main screws to properly install a scope base, cut the pins in half so they are in the base only and shorten the securing screws (or glue them in). This way you don't destroy anything and still have a nice representable LSR sniper based on an original LSR receiver.
Great advice. By mounting the scope as Absolut describes, you will not make any additional irreversible alterations.
 
You don't have to drill the additional holes to the receiver. You can simply use the three main screws to properly install a scope base, cut the pins in half so they are in the base only and shorten the securing screws (or glue them in). This way you don't destroy anything and still have a nice representable LSR sniper based on an original LSR receiver.

Great advice. By mounting the scope as Absolut describes, you will not make any additional irreversible alterations.

I'm betting that the OP wants to build a rifle that he can dependably shoot. By not properly installing the rail (cut locating pins) it will have the same issues as the first short siderails. The screws will keep loosening with each shot fired. If the rifle will not be fired, then it doesn't matter.
 
Since it’s been buffed, May as well make a repro lsr. Is it 30k serial range?


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There is no serial number on this rifle anywhere and I thought it possibly the blueing was covering it but that is to the case. Besides a lower case e on the trigger and the back of the firing pin there are few markings on this rifle.

The Rifle does have a barrel code but it also has been drilled on the side where there used to be a peep sight. I have had this rifle now sitting in my safe now for over a year and now that I am finished with college I would like to get this rifle into a nice looking Repro LSR.
 

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I'm betting that the OP wants to build a rifle that he can dependably shoot. By not properly installing the rail (cut locating pins) it will have the same issues as the first short siderails. The screws will keep loosening with each shot fired. If the rifle will not be fired, then it doesn't matter.

I do plan on firing the rifle. Realistically no more than 300 rounds a year and probably closer to 100.
 
Since it already has extra holes, not to mention the buffing, you might as well drill for the locating pins to mount a base solidly. The damage is already done. Might as well have a solid reliable mount.
 
I'm betting that the OP wants to build a rifle that he can dependably shoot. By not properly installing the rail (cut locating pins) it will have the same issues as the first short siderails. The screws will keep loosening with each shot fired. If the rifle will not be fired, then it doesn't matter.
Given nowadays methods I do not think this should be an issue. Use securing glue and I'm sure it will not be much of an issue. And you can still drill the additional holes afterwards if needed.

The Rifle does have a barrel code but it also has been drilled on the side where there used to be a peep sight. I have had this rifle now sitting in my safe now for over a year and now that I am finished with college I would like to get this rifle into a nice looking Repro LSR.
Your barrel is ce coded. This means Sauer production. Please post a few more pictures of your action to see if the receiver is also a Sauer used receiver.
 
Given nowadays methods I do not think this should be an issue. Use securing glue and I'm sure it will not be much of an issue. And you can still drill the additional holes afterwards if needed.


Your barrel is ce coded. This means Sauer production. Please post a few more pictures of your action to see if the receiver is also a Sauer used receiver.

Here are some more pictures
 

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Besides a lower case e on the trigger and the back of the firing pin there are few markings on this rifle.

Well Hermann Köhler (lower case e) was a parts supplier to Gustloff (bcd code) so those parts make sense. If it was earlier many more parts would be marked, often with 2, 3 or more identification or acceptance stamps.
 

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