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DOT 1944 that didn't cost me $4,000, my first matching example of a 98k.

... channel looks right with sn, no alpha... cracked wood is pretty typical, tang crack and recoil set-back are negatives, numbers below E/H is odd... price is less than 4K. Unhappy, send it back...

For 1200 you think it’s worth repairing? I like it overall
 
Pretty much what Bob said...

Front sight blade, meh, throw a hood on it, won't even notice, but replacing would be easy...

Handguard, strip the finish off if it was refinished, just rub a little BLO in...

Numbers on stock side are weird, who knows, but stock is matching...

Recoil lug setback, cracks? Are you planning on shooting it? If not, while a bit of a negative, wouldn't sweat it. You see that on quite a few...I don't shoot any of mine, so things like that, bore condition, duffle cuts, machts nichts to me, other than possible points to beatdown a price. I very, very rarely sell, so it doesn't bother me from that point either.

For $1200, really, in the scheme of things, when shitty RC's go for $800-$900...I would live with it.
 
For 1200 you think it’s worth repairing? I like it overall

Again, you going to shoot it? Of not, don't worry about it...it can be repaired, but the wrong guy does it it'll be worse than leaving it be. The right guy does it, it won't be cheap, and will likely take a while, and won't add tremendously to bottom line value to a collector, so it boils down to your desire.
 
... channel looks right with sn, no alpha... cracked wood is pretty typical, tang crack and recoil set-back are negatives, numbers below E/H is odd... price is less than 4K. Unhappy, send it back...

Pretty much what Bob said...

Front sight blade, meh, throw a hood on it, won't even notice, but replacing would be easy...

Handguard, strip the finish off if it was refinished, just rub a little BLO in...

Numbers on stock side are weird, who knows, but stock is matching...

Recoil lug setback, cracks? Are you planning on shooting it? If not, while a bit of a negative, wouldn't sweat it. You see that on quite a few...I don't shoot any of mine, so things like that, bore condition, duffle cuts, machts nichts to me, other than possible points to beatdown a price. I very, very rarely sell, so it doesn't bother me from that point either.

For $1200, really, in the scheme of things, when shitty RC's go for $800-$900...I would live with it.

That’s the thing, I have my shooters. It’s in such good shape overall that I’d almost prefer to put it aside. Either way I want to repair it, but I wanna do it right.

I also want to find out more about that front band and the numbers on the stock under the E/H. I know they (Brunn) started introducing unnumbered armorers parts in late 1944, but I can’t say for sure if it is such. Patina seems heavier on the band than the rifle.
 
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So what to do about the stock? And what of the barrel band? I’m still not sure what to do as of yet. I’ll get the front sight replaced and correct the hand guard for now until I figure out what to do.
 
Okay guys,

Front sight replaced with correct sight leaf, looks good.

I’m gonna leave the cracked stock alone for a while and not shoot it, I’m okay with this. Still a good matching stock.

Here’s the 800 pound gorilla in the room. I used a white rag and a tiny bit of acetone and pulled that bubba finish off the handgaurd (reference previous pictures). The results are below. Good clean wood with a solid dot stamp.

What do I do to best match the color to the stock and maintain some form of correctness?

46E802FE-D398-4D1E-92C4-01160DF446EE.jpg
 
Straight BLO will darken it up quite a bit, rub on/in, and let soak in...rub a bit more, until it stops sucking it in, then wipe off and buff with a soft cotton rag...usually works well for me, but some guys hate BLO...

Get some other opinions, and go with the best one...
 
Hand guard is looking quite well so far. I opted to try out some kiwi shoe polish brown mixed with BLO. I know some of you will hate that but it works.

A few more coats and it’ll match the un-messed with stock! Very happy with it.

03B6F42A-F51D-4707-BC90-E32E08230DAB.jpg
 
If it were mine I wouldn’t worry about fixing the crack, because I wouldn’t be firing it anyway and it’s the original stock so I’d live with it and not sweat it at all. I won’t look that good when I’m that old!!! I think it’s a nice rifle for 1200 dollars.


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If it were mine I wouldn’t worry about fixing the crack, because I wouldn’t be firing it anyway and it’s the original stock so I’d live with it and not sweat it at all. I won’t look that good when I’m that old!!! I think it’s a nice rifle for 1200 dollars.


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Thanks! I’ll post pictures of the completed rifle when finished
 
Finished, hit it with 3 coats of instant dry Fiebing’s leather dye in medium brown. Hit with a heat gun to warmth and rubbed it with a new wax toilet bowl ring, melted the wax and buffed with a cotton rag.

It for the most part now matches the stock. I think I’ve cracked the code of simulating 80 years of handling patina!

1ADCD38B-5939-475A-B1F8-79BC5DA22035.jpg
 
Finished, hit it with 3 coats of instant dry Fiebing’s leather dye in medium brown. Hit with a heat gun to warmth and rubbed it with a new wax toilet bowl ring, melted the wax and buffed with a cotton rag.

It for the most part now matches the stock. I think I’ve cracked the code of simulating 80 years of handling patina!

View attachment 243551

Wow you did a great job getting that just right! Good work! It looks even better than before. That’s a nice looking rifle. Way to go!


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You did a great job with that handguard!! Must have been the Miller Lite. :laugh: Your methods and materials might seem unsound to some but the results look really good. Toilet wax ring huh?
 
You did a great job with that handguard!! Must have been the Miller Lite. :laugh: Your methods and materials might seem unsound to some but the results look really good. Toilet wax ring huh?

Yes the Miller definitely helps here and there, in moderation of course! Thank you for the words.

Just as simple as it sounds, a wax toilet bowl ring that cost me about 5 dollars, that will provide about 20+ years worth of wax for this purpose. I barely took any wax off of it doing the hand guard here.

Herk
 
Just a reminder, dot started k98s in 1943 and kept going with the alphas after the serials in 1944 where they left off, without returning to no letter, and then a-block as you might expect. The first 1944 dot rifles started in the v- block, so your rifle was made earlier than you may think. Hence, the front band was replaced.
 
Just a reminder, dot started k98s in 1943 and kept going with the alphas after the serials in 1944 where they left off, without returning to no letter, and then a-block as you might expect. The first 1944 dot rifles started in the v- block, so your rifle was made earlier than you may think. Hence, the front band was replaced.

Ahh I see, I figured it had been replaced when I first saw it in person. I think it’s a far fetched theory to think it’s a period replacement IMO. Most likely was replaced by a previous owner. A shame, but if that’s the only problem concerning matching parts I’m happy with it.
 

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