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Recommended 8mm headspace gauge?

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hey all. was wondering if you guys had preferences for any certain kind of headspace gauge for the k98s you've acquired? I've finished two restoration projects, with a third not far behind. Want to test fire them at the range, but not before checking the headspace. any advice and/or recommendations are welcome. Thanks in advance!! :thumbsup:
 
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Knowing how to use the gauge is more important than who made the gauge.

If you are new to using a gauge I would recommend reading Hatcher's Notebook and Col Hatcher's discussion on using a head space gauge on a m1903.
 
8mm Headspace Gauges

hey all. was wondering if you guys had preferences for any certain kind of headspace gauge for the k98s you've acquired? I've finished two restoration projects, with a third not far behind. Want to test fire them at the range, but not before checking the headspace. any advice and/or recommendations are welcome. Thanks in advance!! :thumbsup:

The newer gauges are pretty easy to use. I bought the Forrester Headspace Gauges from Brownells. There is a Go Gauge, No Go Gauge, and a Field Gauge. They all are progressively longer. The Go Gauge should Go. The No Go Gauge should not Go. If the No Go Gauge does go, then you use the Field Gauge to determine if the rifle is so far out of tolerence it should not be shot. The directions that come with the gauges say that as long as the field gauge does not go then it should be safe to shoot from a Headspace perspective. I have used them on all my 98k's. I have even found a rifle that had been bored out to 8mm-06, which is a longer case. 8mm-06 is described in the reloading manuals. If in doubt see your favorite Gunsmith. Here is the link from Brownells, if you are interested. Best of Luck.

Brian

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...auges/forster-headspace-gauges-prod19183.aspx
 
Knowing how to use the gauge is more important than who made the gauge.

If you are new to using a gauge I would recommend reading Hatcher's Notebook and Col Hatcher's discussion on using a head space gauge on a m1903.

The newer gauges are pretty easy to use. I bought the Forrester Headspace Gauges from Brownells. There is a Go Gauge, No Go Gauge, and a Field Gauge. They all are progressively longer. The Go Gauge should Go. The No Go Gauge should not Go. If the No Go Gauge does go, then you use the Field Gauge to determine if the rifle is so far out of tolerence it should not be shot. The directions that come with the gauges say that as long as the field gauge does not go then it should be safe to shoot from a Headspace perspective. I have used them on all my 98k's. I have even found a rifle that had been bored out to 8mm-06, which is a longer case. 8mm-06 is described in the reloading manuals. If in doubt see your favorite Gunsmith. Here is the link from Brownells, if you are interested. Best of Luck.
Brian
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...auges/forster-headspace-gauges-prod19183.aspx

I will take both of your advice. thank you! I really appreciate it. :thumbsup:

(I especially appreciated the quick explanation of go, no go, field. made me understand. Thanks!)
 
Just for background. Headspace checks are required on new rifles because of the wide tolerance spread on ammunition, especially military ammunition in wartime. A GO gauge ensures that the rifle will accept a cartridge on the outer (longest) end of the tolerance. A NO-GO gauge ensures that ammunition on the inner (shortest) end of the tolerance will not be allowed to stretch far enough for the case to separate. The FIELD gauge ensures that wear and tear on a used rifle has not progressed to the point that case separation of short cartridges is not only possible but likely.

In truth, even case separation is not a very serious problem in the civilian world. Rarely is there any serious gas escape, and the worst result is usually a trip to the gunsmith to have the forward part of the case removed. But in combat, a separated case would mean a disabled rifle and possibly a dead soldier, which is why the military takes rifle headspace concerns very seriously. But separated cases with machineguns (especially the Brownings) was so common that headless shell extractors were common issue to machinegun crews in the U.S. service.

So, how and why does headspace become a problem? When a rifle like the Mauser leaves the factory, the headspace will be correct. As a rule, the barrel is made with a short chamber; after it is installed, the chamber is reamed until the headspace is correct. Exactly how that is done varies with the factory and the rifle. But as the rifle is fired, the bolt lugs and the lug seats in the receiver become battered, and operating the bolt induces wear, especially in dusty or sandy areas.

So, is it necessary to check headspace on your milsurp Mauser? Probably not; "first world" armies kept their equipment well maintained, and few "lesser world" countries fired their rifles enough to create excess headspace. If you want to check, do you need all three gauges? No, you need only the FIELD gauge. The GO and NO-GO gauges will be needed only if you plan to rebarrel a rifle, using a new barrel.

What if you want to use a "take off" barrel as a replacement? If the headspace is too tight, using a reamer to set it is easy. If the headspace is excessive, then you have a problem. Most folks will say that "all you have to do" is to set the barrel back a turn and rechamber. But on a rifle like the Mauser, that will mean you have to adjust the stock so the bayonet will fit, and adjust the front band and spring, plus the stock cuts for the rear sight and barrel steps won't line up. On a rifle like the M1 (Garand) setting the barrel back will throw off the gas cylinder and operating rod, as well as the upper handguard and the band. That means major work, plus you end up with an odd-looking rifle.

Jim
 
More simply yet, just visually inspect your rifle. If it's original and in nice shape (not a worn, rebarreled, or otherwise messed with example) you can reasonably expect to have no serious problems. Just head for the range. The bolt should close on a loaded round, possibly with just a little drag. Shoot a single round, holding the rifle well away from your face. Eject and inspect the fired cartridge, chamber and bore. The case should not be split or bulged. The primer should be flush with the base of the case, and the primer indentation should match the firing pin protrusion that you can see at the bolt face when the firing pin is not cocked. If all of this is the case, there's really no need to investigate farther as you have a healthy rifle. This should be done with every piece that you acquire and intend to shoot, new or used.

An interesting 98k showed up at the range recently. It was completely mismatched and extremely worn, but the owner had gotten it cheap. The bore was very dark and extremely worn. The bolt was bright (unfinished) and had a straight handle with no proofs or markings at all. The guy insisted upon shooting this rifle, which, frankly, I would have never acquired. The rifle could not be targeted at 100 yards as the bullets were tumbling. Guages could have been used in this case, but it should have been obvious that the gun should never be fired. A disaster of a gun with good head spacing is still a disaster. :facepalm:
 
wow, great info guys, thank you!! the restoration projects I have going involve only actual k98's and bolts, all with the proper markings, so, it's original stuff and in good shape.

I think I will get the field gauge, and try that. Thanks again for all the help!!! :thumbsup:

attached pics are of the ones I finished already; a BYF '44 and a BYF '41.
 

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Nice restoration,

I realize this thread is a bit old, okey almost 8 years, but i just bought my first k98 and it should be arriving next week. Everything is matching except the bolt and because of that a friend recommended I check the headspace. In the case that this is a german made bolt from the proper period should it not fit and would it not have been checked at the time the original was replaced (in theory)? i mean im not saying its a bad idea to get it checked but is it 100% necessary when buying these older mausers?

Thanks
 
I guess it depends on your tolerance for risk. Personally, the 1st time I fire an unknown rifle it is in a rest & I’m pulling a string standing behind a tree, no exceptions. i hope to live a good long time more, shooting unknown 100 Y.O. rifles, like racing 50 Y.O. motorcycles, does entail a certain amount of risk. YOU decide what’s within your comfort level.
 
I guess it depends on your tolerance for risk. Personally, the 1st time I fire an unknown rifle it is in a rest & I’m pulling a string standing behind a tree, no exceptions. i hope to live a good long time more, shooting unknown 100 Y.O. rifles, like racing 50 Y.O. motorcycles, does entail a certain amount of risk. YOU decide what’s within your comfort level.

Understood! I think ill drop by my local gunsmith and have it checked over ;)
 
a gunsmith taught me all you need is a go gauge. By adding tape, I think it was masking tape, to the go gauge and measuring to make sure, you can make a no go gauge. The tape was consistent in thickness so it was repeatable. I saw him do it. It works.
 

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