Mysterious mark
- Thread starter stuka12358
- Start date
Yes, maybe the early time frame of 1936 makes a Simson sight base possible?
edit-sorry, just saw it was a 1937 rifle per OP.
Last edited:
Hard to say much from that photo, but it looks like just the rear sight base collar is shown. Can't tell what WaA numbers are there being below the wood line.
stuka12358
Junior Member
stuka12358
Junior Member
Understood. Any recommendations?
biggymu
Well-known member
I have several sets. Forster is one good brand. Those are fixed size screw drivers. Then I see the interchangeable bit types (Wheeler and such) gives a lot of different sizes and types of tips. Must be hollow ground, gunsmith specific. Tips must fit tightly in the screw slot.
Muncher 1953
Senior Member
I have this set, 2 in particular fit Mauser action screws
SCREWDRIVER SET | Brownells
Made from keystone hardened tool steel. Sides of bit tip are made parallel for short distance toward shank for better -- more consistent fit to help prevent mars and dings in and around the screw slot. Features square shank; hardened tips; square,...
www.brownells.com
stuka12358
Junior Member
Thank you both for the info. I will look into it!
copperlake
Member
There is nothing magic about hollow ground hex bits. You can buy them for nothing. Certainly a standard driver doesn't cut it. I regrind the hex bits to fit those occasions. Just give a common 3/16 hollow ground hex bit for the capture screw and a 9/32 for the main a try before you spend a hundred bucks. A buggered screw is a buggered screw. Kroil will or any penetrating oil FOR DAYS can work, or not. The point is don't think you apply it and then go for it. My fav is Mistic Metal Mover.
mowzerluvr
Hey Buddy, is that an E/4 in your pocket?
When I used to be able to do gunsmith work I'd run into this screw problem a lot. A well fit driver, WD40 and a tap or two on the driver handle always "shocked" the threads loose for me.
I don't know enough about the parts supplied to Sauer in that time frame to say. In any case, more detailed photos of the whole rifle may answer if reworked.
copperlake
Member
Another thing; if you roach the capture screw it will be a dill-out affair. Google 'left hand drill bits' and how they are used for screw extraction. Perhaps the better option is don't mess with it. The advice about smacking the driver down is right on. That screw looks way too wide and is hurt in the left side so you may need to grind the tip of the 3/16 driver down until there is a good fit. You can also take a small punch and try and move some metal into the slot. Fortunately for you it's not the rear screw.
You said the small lock screw, not the action screw is frozen correct? The forward lock screw looks to be in a neutral position as it sits right now. The action screw can NORMALY be removed with the lock screw in that position. The notch should align with the hole for the main action screw as it sits. However, you can best decide if it still is impinging on the action screw, and caution is prudent. Here is a photo of lock screw in that position and its interface with the action screw hole....
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