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Thread: Need help to correct dented/bent milled trigger guard

  1. #1
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    Default Need help to correct dented/bent milled trigger guard

    I have been trying to correct the “battle damage” on a trigger guard and have had some success but it is still not “right.” The rear seems to be bent out a few mm and there is still flattening at the front/bottom.

    Should I heat it up in the oven and start pounding? I have a hammer with plastic on the outside so it won’t tear up the metal.

    Any ideas?
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  2. #2
    Senior Member moconfed's Avatar
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    Wow. Is that tg part of a matched rifle?

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    Senior Member Herk1994's Avatar
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    You’re not gonna get anywhere with that hammer. Use a light weight steel ball peen with a mirror polished face.

    I should ask, is it part of a matching rifle? If it is I wouldn’t do anything at all to it. I’m assuming it’s not because I know you wouldn’t do that to a matching rifle with legitimate or suspected battle damage.

    Either way, heat applied might mess with the finish, especially if you utilize a torch. A reblue may be necessary, especially if the latter is used.

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    Quote Originally Posted by moconfed View Post
    Wow. Is that tg part of a matched rifle?
    #912. Bolt mismatch. Rest matches.

    I’m sorry guys, I can’t stand dents, rust, dust, streaks and scratches. What can I say?

    The bolt is number 9879 which is one offered on the parts mismatch thread. The rifle is a 42/40 #912 qq
    Last edited by Gerst; 01-16-2021 at 07:30 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Herk1994 View Post
    You’re not gonna get anywhere with that hammer. Use a light weight steel ball peen with a mirror polished face.

    I should ask, is it part of a matching rifle? If it is I wouldn’t do anything at all to it. I’m assuming it’s not because I know you wouldn’t do that to a matching rifle with legitimate or suspected battle damage.

    Either way, heat applied might mess with the finish, especially if you utilize a torch. A reblue may be necessary, especially if the latter is used.
    I wouldn’t use a torch. I was thinking of putting it in the oven to heat the whole thing. Would 450 be enough to soften the metal any? Works great for pizzas!

    The hammer I have is a Husky and it doesn’t leave marks and it won’t “bounce.”

    If the dent is battle damage the guy must have put his full weight on the guard because nothing else has even a scratch. If the dent had been any deeper the trigger wouldn’t work. I have alreadyremoved most of it. It may have been done after the war. Either way, I don’t like it.

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    I put a temporary trigger guard on it while I’m working on the other one. Ironically, this trigger guard almost matches the mismatching bolt!

    Frankly I think the stamped ones like nicer.
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    Last edited by Gerst; 01-16-2021 at 07:32 PM.

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    I would try to open it from inside the tg. I would try hard wood wedges.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CLG View Post
    I would try to open it from inside the tg. I would try hard wood wedges.
    I used a bolt and nut combo to push most of it out but it is still “askew.” It is difficult to apply pressure to the exact area.

  9. #9
    Community Organizer Hambone's Avatar
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    I’ve got carried and used K98ks with tg bends and prangs worse than that and I like them. Leave it alone. You stand a very high chance of doing more damage trying to “fix” it. You’ll add dents, heat marks, perhaps worse bends, and run the risk of cracking it. More damage has been done to original K98ks trying to “fix” them than by leaving them alone. IMHO.
    “Not every item of news should be published. Rather must those who control news policies endeavor to make every item of news serve a certain purpose.” - Dr. Joseph Goebbels, Reich Ministry of Public Enlightenment and Propaganda, 1933-1945

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hambone View Post
    I’ve got carried and used K98ks with tg bends and prangs worse than that and I like them. Leave it alone. You stand a very high chance of doing more damage trying to “fix” it. You’ll add dents, heat marks, perhaps worse bends, and run the risk of cracking it. More damage has been done to original K98ks trying to “fix” them than by leaving them alone. IMHO.
    Yes, I’ve considered all that. I’ve been very careful using heavy tape and metal strips and even wood to avoid metal-to- metal contact. I will not use a torch. Once I get to a point where I can’t straighten it out any more, I’ll stop and remount the part. If I can stand it, I’ll leave it on. If I can’t I’ll remount the stamped guard and put the other in my parts bin with a note to whichever of my kids/grandkids ends up with the gun and they can decide. They can always sell the byf stamped part which is very nice.

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