Third Party Press

BYF 42 - New Acquisition /Thoughts?

fishermankw

fishermankw

Senior Member
So I was bummed about missing out on the commercial K98 once I knew that it wasn’t an EG rework and have kept my eyes out. I’ve been hoping to find one decent, bringback example. This one came out of the woodwork and I scooped it up, considering what even RCs are brining I think I got it fairly reasonably. The metal all appears to match and consistent serials throughout, the wood matches itself, but does NOT match the gun. Hood sight, sling and cleaning rod are obvious repos. Being a BYF42 I know they are a harder date so figured it would be tough to go wrong. Also, just noticed on the bottom, it appears on the the screws were over-tightened as the head of the screw is missing.

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If you ever wanna get those broken screws out and replaced I can help you out. I can get in done in the garage here, I take payment in coors light....:happy0180: I think I even have some extra unmarked locking screws in my parts container.
 
Herk1994 said:
If you ever wanna get those broken screws out and replaced I can help you out. I can get in done in the garage here, I take payment in coors light....:happy0180: I think I even have some extra unmarked locking screws in my parts container.
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I’ll definitely take you up on that. It’s just a little shorter than I can get a good grip with my needle nose here and obviously don’t want to jab them in and scratch it up.


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Herk1994 said:
If you ever wanna get those broken screws out and replaced I can help you out. I can get in done in the garage here, I take payment in coors light....:happy0180: I think I even have some extra unmarked locking screws in my parts container.
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Neat rifle, I mid war MO is definitely a want for my collection.

Herk, how do you go about getting out broken locking screws like that? My SS contract has the same issue and I've been want to rectify it. Normally, I'd be happy to come over and bring you some Coors light as well... but I suspect the drive is a bit far lol
 
hale1940 said:
Neat rifle, I mid war MO is definitely a want for my collection.

Herk, how do you go about getting out broken locking screws like that? My SS contract has the same issue and I've been want to rectify it. Normally, I'd be happy to come over and bring you some Coors light as well... but I suspect the drive is a bit far lol
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Sometimes it's not that hard. First disassemble the trigger guard from the rifle. Soak the screws from both sides for a couple of days or more with Kroil or other good penetrating oil. An eye dropper, small syringe or Q-tip helps in getting the oil to the thread interface. Repeated applications. Hopefully, that will loosen the hardened oil/corrosion. May also help to hold a hairdryer on the work area. The micro expansion of the steel will help loosen encrustation and help the penetrating oil migrate into the thread. I then use a sharp pointed tool counter-clockwise against the broken surface of the screw. I happen to have a dental pick that is perfect for this job. I have also used the sharpened point of a set of tweezers somewhat like a spanner to rotate the screw. Careful not to slip and damage the trigger guard. Patience!

I do not recommend drilling unless experienced with machine tools The screws are hardened, and small to work with. It will be very tricky to drill it on center without damaging the threads.
 
R.W. Parker said:
Screw extractor ("Easy-Out"). The trick is drilling the hole properly...
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Yes, first take the trigger guard off to check the threads on the other side to see if you can help them out from the back, and if not, a properly sized drill bit and extraction set. You wouldn’t believe how many stainless steel screws I’ve had to extract from brand new Cessna made airplanes....suffice to say, I’ve gotten proficient at screw extraction
 
GEM said:
Sometimes it's not that hard. First disassemble the trigger guard from the rifle. Soak the screws from both sides for a couple of days or more with Kroil or other good penetrating oil. An eye dropper, small syringe or Q-tip helps in getting the oil to the thread interface. Repeated applications. Hopefully, that will loosen the hardened oil/corrosion. May also help to hold a hairdryer on the work area. The micro expansion of the steel will help loosen encrustation and help the penetrating oil migrate into the thread. I then use a sharp pointed tool counter-clockwise against the broken surface of the screw. I happen to have a dental pick that is perfect for this job. I have also used the sharpened point of a set of tweezers somewhat like a spanner to rotate the screw. Careful not to slip and damage the trigger guard. Patience!

I do not recommend drilling unless experienced with machine tools The screws are hardened, and small to work with. It will be very tricky to drill it on center without damaging the threads.
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This is a great point, about drilling. As an aircraft mechanic, I’m quite experienced. Butttttt, I didn’t consider the hardening of these screws. That’s definitely going to make a difference. I am confident that a good drill bit and a lot of patience should get the job done without risk of damage.
 
fishermankw said:
Already off! I took the repo hood sight and rod out too, it was bad, the hood site jiggled it was so loose.


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I second get rid of the repro accessories, shame the stock is cracked ( shooting a antique). I would be careful repairing that, I would send that out to be fixed by a pro not the local gunsmith

agreed nice rifle
 
R.W. Parker said:
Hey, I LIKE those tacky $12 repro slings! I soften 'em up with a week-long soak in a tub of Ballistol, and they take pressure off my originals.

Richie
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They definitely have their place! I have no intention of shooting this one so going to have to find the “originals” to replace the repos this one had.


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Here she is with the “new” hardware. Looks a lot better now that the repo pieces are off!

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DukeIronHand said:
Out of curiosity how does one tell repro sight hoods and cleaning rods from original WW2 German issue?
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Cleaning rods are a bit easier to determine, the shape of the screw as well as the taper of the rod. Site goods are different, I can tell a bad repo, they’re more “springy” and blueing is new.

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