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Thread: Refinishing

  1. #1
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    Default Refinishing

    Hello Everyone,

    I have a Gewehr 98 that was given to me by a family friend before he passed away about a year ago. I know this rifle meant a lot to him, and his family history so I want to do right by him with what I do. Itís also a 100% matching rifle.

    Itís in terrible condition, I oil it, clean it, remove rust and so on regularly... but I canít keep up. Itís just rusting so much. The ďGew 98Ē on the side is nearly gone.

    Would anyone have any advice on refinishing it? I am getting to the point where I feel it needs to be glass bead blasted and refinished. If not Iím afraid Iím going to lose this rifle to the rust...

    Thank you in advance,
    Brandon







  2. #2
    Senior Member chrisftk's Avatar
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    Brandon, I speak for the rest of my colleagues here when I say this--- please do NOT touch it.

    People judge Gew98s by k98k standards. It's simply not right. WW1 was a gritty, dirty war; these rifles lived tough lives. The average zgew98 is in comparable condition to yours except you gave a screamer of a stock.

    All you need to do is give it a good cleaning with oil and brass (not steel!) wool. That is literally it. anything more and you'll turn a $1500 rifle into a $400 shooter.

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    I am not worried about value, as I wonít be selling it.... but yeah I donít want to ruin the historical aspect of it. I will try the brass wool and oil, see what happens. I just want to get the rusting under control. Thank you for the advice.

    Also can I ask what is special about the stock? Is it just the condition?

    Brandon


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  4. #4
    Senior Member chrisftk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon View Post
    I am not worried about value, as I wonít be selling it.... but yeah I donít want to ruin the historical aspect of it. I will try the brass wool and oil, see what happens. I just want to get the rusting under control. Thank you for the advice.

    Also can I ask what is special about the stock? Is it just the condition?

    Brandon


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    Yeah, just really nice, crisp condition on the stock.

    Brass wool and oil will do the trick. It won't be pretty ever, but that's not the point the these. After you use the brass wool, finish with a coat of oil and you'll be good.

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

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    Have you tried the boiling water method then used brass wool with oil?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdmV...adinessReviews

    Someone else can chime in if this method has too much risk but what about electrolysis? It's not terribly difficult to do I can't speak if it will remove finish though.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54AD...l=WOODmagazine

  6. #6
    Senior Member runner's Avatar
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    I don't know what type of oil you are using. But I have cleaned up some pretty crusty rifles. carefully disassemble, and clean all the metal using CLP and a rough cloth and old toothbrush. Wipe it all down with an old towel to remove surface rust and dirt.. then reoil with CLP and let the parts lay out on a towel overnight while the second coat has a chance to enter the pores of the metal. The next day wipe the metal down with a clean cotton cloth. When you reassemble wear a pair of the rubber gloves made for
    mechanics to keep all the solvents of their hands. Store in a humidity controlled environment and it should remain stable.

    P.S. CLP is : Cleaner, lubricant, Preservative, it is the civilian version of what the military uses on their firearms. You can buy it at Walmart. I used to use a product called RIG, but it has gotten harder to find
    and the CLP seems to work just as well. I think the original version of RIG got banned for environmental/safety reasons.

    I agree your stock does not need anything except a wipe down with a clean cotton cloth to remove any loose dirt/dust.

    AS others has said do not refinish or sandblast your rifle for the sake of history, you have a very nice example.

    thanks for posting.

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    Default

    Great advice posted above. If you need an academic source as a basis, this is what professionally trained museum curator's reference (just one example):
    http://publications.gc.ca/collection...6-1995-eng.pdf

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    Anyone know how to post pdf's? I have several documents related to firearms preservation. I was fortunate enough to go to a college that had care and preservation of artifacts as coursework you could take.

    Quite a good bit of advice, but if you are having continually reoccurring rust, then that tells me that something else is afoot. Either the environment, your method of storage, or your method of handling. As mentioned, gloves may be a worthwhile addition to your process. I have a good friend who can rust a stainless gun just by handling them. I always remind people, it was originally referred to as "Stayne - LESS" (or several iterations of the spelling) but the key is the LESS. If you have a corrosive personality, or are just a corrosive person, protect the gun. Always use protection!

    In regards to storage, if you are storing the gun in an environment with fluctuating temperatures and high humidity, most anything metal will rust.

    If there is active rust on the rifle, reapplying oil will not stop it from continuing to rust. You need to neutralize the rust. Boiling is one method, and depending on the severity may be the best approach. You need not card the metal after boiling as to not effect the finish.

    Another method I have had limited success with to gently prevent/neutralize rust is to soak the metal in a strong solution of warm to hot water and baking soda. Sometimes this will do nothing at all, sometimes it helps.

    I have found/shown that some Mausers actually rust from the inside out. This could be from impurities in the steel, impurities from the forging process, or even tiny voids, I have not been able to nail down the exact cause.

    Regardless, you need to get the reoccurring rust under control. I can pull a rifle out that I haven't touched in 10-20 years and it not have any rust on it.

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    Thank all of you guys so much for the replies, to add, I have many other older guns, some from the 1800s that I do not have issues with. This is only gun here that I cannot get under control.

    My humidity is around 44% and usually around 65 degrees.

    I am currently giving it a run over with steel wool to see what happens, I have lots of CLP that Iíve been using to no avail.

    I will keep you all updated with what happens after this!

  10. #10
    Senior Member chrisftk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon View Post
    Thank all of you guys so much for the replies, to add, I have many other older guns, some from the 1800s that I do not have issues with. This is only gun here that I cannot get under control.

    My humidity is around 44% and usually around 65 degrees.

    I am currently giving it a run over with steel wool to see what happens, I have lots of CLP that Iíve been using to no avail.

    I will keep you all updated with what happens after this!
    Brass wool!! Steel wool is no beuno!!

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

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