Third Party Press

How to remove trigger on 98k

Cuca20

Junior Member
Hi guys, have a stupid question - how to remove a trigger assembly on 98k? Intuitively I understand that a trigger pin needs to be removed, but it doesn’t move any side. Also does it matter which side to punch the pin - left or right? On the right side it seems to be a pin “head” but all videos with diagrams show removal right to left. Any advice would be appreciated. Asking for cleaning purposes.
 
The pin ought to go out either side unless one side of the pin has been distorted by hammering. Rifles jammed with cosmoline might require trigger/sear removal to get all the crud out of the spring recess and other areas, but it’s usually possible to clean adequately without removing the trigger and sear. If you are having trouble, you could take a few pictures and post them, and we can suggest how to proceed. Good luck!!


Sent from my top secret official Bunker of the Order of the Def’s Hed.
 
The pin ought to go out either side unless one side of the pin has been distorted by hammering. Rifles jammed with cosmoline might require trigger/sear removal to get all the crud out of the spring recess and other areas, but it’s usually possible to clean adequately without removing the trigger and sear. If you are having trouble, you could take a few pictures and post them, and we can suggest how to proceed. Good luck!!


Sent from my top secret official Bunker of the Order of the Def’s Hed.

The Great and All Knowing "Keeper of the Def's Head", as usual, is absolutely correct! There's no reason to remove the trigger/sear assembly unless you're replacing it. The pins are a press fit, and were never meant to be removed just for cleaning. You could easily damage your rifle if you're not familiar with the process. Just spray it a few times with carburetor cleaner or soak it in lacquer thinner and blow it off with compressed air, oil it lightly and you're set, all without risking any damage.
:happy0180:
 
Last edited:
Ironic this should come up as I was looking to remove a trigger.
On the K98’s cousin, the Springfield 1903 which looks exactly the same in this area, this pin (easily) moves one way for removal and reinstall.
When you say the K98 pin goes either way (left or right) that is clear enough.
By “press fit” do you mean it is just in their because it’s “tight as heck?”
 
Ironic this should come up as I was looking to remove a trigger.
On the K98’s cousin, the Springfield 1903 which looks exactly the same in this area, this pin (easily) moves one way for removal and reinstall.
When you say the K98 pin goes either way (left or right) that is clear enough.
By “press fit” do you mean it is just in their because it’s “tight as heck?”

That’s the definition of press fit - well, maybe not the “tight as heck” part ;-)

If you google press fit you’ll get several results leading to engineering terms etc.
 
“Gunscrubber” brand spray cleaner is slightly less toxic/obnoxious indoors than carb cleaner, but that works OK. I use acetone, but lacquer thinner works. If you don’t have compressed air handy, canned air works well for dislodging tiny grit.

Some pins move easier to one side than the other, but they’re not designed to be tapered. Just support the sear body/assembly properly so the force goes into the pin itself.
 
Ironic this should come up as I was looking to remove a trigger.
On the K98’s cousin, the Springfield 1903 which looks exactly the same in this area, this pin (easily) moves one way for removal and reinstall.
When you say the K98 pin goes either way (left or right) that is clear enough.
By “press fit” do you mean it is just in their because it’s “tight as heck?”

Unfortunately, the 98 is not friendly and made to push right out like the 03. By a press fit I meant a pin that stays in by being forced into a hole that's a smaller in diameter than the pin, usually installed with a press. It's not a tapered pin that needs to be pushed out in one direction. Yea Duke, they're usually "tight as heck". Like Muncher says, if you can use something that's non toxic that's even better.
:happy0180:
 
Thanks gentlemen.
I usually take my guns all the way apart, at one time or another, “just because” it contributes to my overall understanding and makes future repairs much easier as you can visualize everything however press fit could - maybe - end up being a headache and elbow grease.
I think I’ll take a pass here and save the trigger for when I really need to!
 
Thanks gentlemen.
I usually take my guns all the way apart, at one time or another, “just because” it contributes to my overall understanding and makes future repairs much easier as you can visualize everything however press fit could - maybe - end up being a headache and elbow grease.
I think I’ll take a pass here and save the trigger for when I really need to!

this is pretty much my approach. sometimes careful disassembly exposes a potential problem that might save the piece from irreparable/value killing damage, or possibly save your hand/face from needing surgery. I want to get rid of any moisture-retaining gunk or spooge, but I leave heat shrunk parts & staked pins alone, unless repair is needed.

in the specific case of our rifles, I’ll only drive these 2 pins far enough to remove the sear/housing from the receiver or the trigger from the housing, but not clear through the housing, so one end of the pin is still retained in the sear piece. this assures proper alignment for the return trip. sometimes on a shooter, you may not like the feel of the trigger, & it’s worth the effort to take the assembly off the receiver to LOOK at the surfaces of the trigger heel, where the trigger touches the receiver & actual sear heel. the trigger & sear are often targets of bubba. I’ve found this on 2 of 5 Mausers I own, one of them unsafe due to these mods.
(slam fired, offending parts since replaced)

IF you need to do this, support the pieces well. I use wood blocks, plywood shims, I’m sure modern plastic gun blocks could work. use a punch smaller than the pins, but close in diam, w/tip in good condition. DON’T use a ‘nail set’ (because it’s tapered, tho they work) whatever you do, LEAVE NO TOOL MARKS anywhere!

most of all, have fun!
 

Military Rifle Journal
Back
Top