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P38....what should I pay? PICS ARE UP!

fireman

Senior Member
I'm being offered a P38 as a part trade. He thinks $950 for it. I think it is too much. Here are the details.

BYF 44...matching A block.

Original? finish. It appears so.

No spare mag etc.

Russian Capture? It has the typical X above the ser. # on the slide. I used to own a mismatched but non import marked or refinished p38 years ago. So it seems like it might be legit?

I kinda like the gun and think it would be a good shooter but is priced high.

Shoot, I thought I did pictures but they would not load apparently. I will see if I can resize the.

Thoughts?

Thanks
 
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Zeppelin5000

Senior Member
I paid $950 for my matching byf44 about 3-4 years ago. I haven't seen those prices since.... They're all over well $1k now it seems. Today, that's a great price for a matching one imo.

However, what got me is the Russian capture part. It's matching but an RC? I'm not too familiar with how common it is to find matching captured German pistols (compared to RC 98k's where matching numbers is non existent). Are matching RC handguns a thing? If it's actually matching but just has the X engraved, that might just be about right nowadays for a slightly altered P38.20220320_211749.jpg
 

Benny65

Member
I have a cyq Russian capture, no X, but it has that black paint like finish and a import mark on the front strap. The locking block is typically black as well from the refinish. All the numbers are matching on mine. I paid 550.00 about 4 years ago at a LGS for just the pistol and a repro mag. I use it for a shooter.
P1012119  2.jpgP1012137 2.jpgP1012123 2.jpg
 

fireman

Senior Member
Is this one refinished? I go back and forth. i have only owned a couple of WW2 German pistols over the years. None were this late date.
 

Gringo

Member
Russian capture P38's come in a variety of conditions. Most common are the dipped and 'X' marked psitols, although it is not uncommon to find one without the other; for example many pistols have the 'X' but no dip, or visa versa. There are key features that will tell you if a pistol has been dipped, but fact is, that dip is definitely removeable and even if you know what you're looking at in hand, it can be difficult to tell if done correctly. Some people wont' touch the dip, and feel it is part of the pistol's history; others can't stand it and will do everything they can to get rid of it.

All three manufacturers had their own quirks about various manufacturing processes and features. For example, you should never see a blued locking block, locking block pin or trigger springs on a Walther or Mauser pistol. Ever.
Spreewerk on the other hand, used contractors that blued various components, and you can find various blued locking blocks, pins and trigger springs at various times throughout the manufacturing process from beginning to end.

So, much like with K98's, knowledge is key. I think $950 is up there for a dipped, 'X' marked pistol, even these days. If you're patient, you can find a good solid, undipped pistol without the Russian 'X' or import marks for not much more.

Generally Walthers will command a slightly higher price than Mausers, with Spreewerks generally falling on the bottom of the price scale even though they made fewer than the other two manufacturers. Walthers started before everyone else, and their very early guns (pre-1942) will be in a category of their own. Don't be fooled though...there are Spreewerks that will draw $3-4k or more. There are very early Spreewerk guns with Walther parts, and very late ones with FN slides or FN frames for example that will compete with most anything Mauser made. Late Mauser pistols (the SVW examples) are highly sought after as are very early (1942) pistols.

So, bottom line is, keep looking and be patient.
 

fireman

Senior Member
Thanks for hte info! This is being offered as part of a trade. I do think that he has put too high a trade value on it.
 

Gringo

Member
You see that little black pin sticking out right there? Absolute proof it has been dipped at one time. It can be a real tricky to remove dip from the pin, but it is relatively easy to do on the locking block. Like I said, it is not difficult to remove from the larger areas and the exterior appears to have perhaps had some of it removed at one time. DSC_2795.JPG
 

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