G43 Frankenbuild: Not for the faint at heart.

[KneverKnew]

I am acquiring a Franken-Bubba'd G43 from a friend. He had purchased it on an online auction for what he thought was a great price. The various issues with it were not clearly stated in the auction. He held onto it for a future build project. I am now attempting that build, with the hope I will purchase it from him when done, and end up with a nice looking "correct" and shootable G43 parts gun. This particular gun looks operable as far as the action goes. The rest of the gun creates many questions to which I have no answers why Bubba did what he did.

It appears to have an almost complete G43 stock except for 1" cut from buttstock, I assume for the installation of a rubber recoil pad. There are no markings on the stock and there is no handguard. There is a large "dot" painted on either side of the buttstock comb.

The front sight has been removed and a "commercial" sight soldered on.

Worst of all, the rear sight block/receiver top "sight ears" have been ground off!!! Also the receiver/barrel has been spray coated with a shiny clear coat of something.

The magazine appears to be aftermarket, but does have correct markings stamped in for an authentic look.
The complete trigger group/guard assembly looks to be complete and in good condition.
The gas block already has a "Shooters Kit" installed with all needed inserts. I have a complete barreled reciever on the way that will need a new front sight assembly (have it) and gas block. I want to remove the gas block with shooters kit from the bubba gun to install on the "new" barreled action. How hard is this? I hope just punch out the pin and use hammer and brass punch to drive off gas block. Or is it on tighter than that???

So to bring this Franken-bubba'd gun back from the brink of despair, my friend is sending me everything he has collected over the past eleven years. I will have all the parts needed, so assuming the gas block and front sight assembly cooperate, the build should be fairly straight forward. Of course the biggest and most important task will be insuring proper headspace between my current bolt assembly and the "new" barrel. I have 8mm no-go and field gauges. I use a live factory round as a go gauge. Please inform me how easy it is to get correct headspacing in builds like these!! If headspace is not correct, can new locking flappers be used to correct it? Any pointers on how to get correct headspacing would be appreciated. Once the rest of the parts arrive and I get some things put together I will post more pictures here. Please check back. I will need plenty of pointers. Thanks.

If I am successful, and complete this restoration, he will give me the opportunity to buy it from him. i hope to glean from the collective wealth of knowledge here to complete this task.

 

[timothy]

Might be a Franken build Bubba done it a job but at the price of these things these days would be worth a go. It has the threaded barrel too which I always found harder to find. I'd like to see it completed and saved! timothy

 

[Tiger 2 Tank]

Damn that's going to be a difficult one for sure. It's neat to resurect it, but wow.

Any way I can get the serial number and what manufacturer it is for my listings? I would greately appreciate it.

Also, gunbroker has a barreled action for auction right now. And, there's a stock on there too. That might help with some of this.

 

[KneverKnew]

Damn that's going to be a difficult one for sure. It's neat to resurect it, but wow.

Any way I can get the serial number and what manufacturer it is for my listings? I would greately appreciate it.

Also, gunbroker has a barreled action for auction right now. And, there's a stock on there too. That might help with some of this.

I may not have been clear in my OP, but my friend, who has been collecting G43 parts for over a decade now, is also sending me numberous other parts to do the build. This "care package" includes a Polish made complete G43 stock, minus the hand guard, all the stock metal parts and a "new" barreled action that just needs a gas block and front sight installed. I plan on using these in the build. I do not know as of yet if the muzzle is threaded as well. I would be willing to pull and swap barrels if I had the proper equipment, but I don't. I am just hoping the barrel that's on the way has threads too. Once the care package arrives, the plan is to pull the gas block w/ attached shooters kit, complete trigger/guard assembly and complete bolt/carrier/cover assembly from the franken rifle and install all parts onto the "new" barreled receiver, and then fitting all that into the Polish G43 stock.
I've heard that removing the gas block from one barrel and installing on another isn't very easy to do. Can someone elaberate on this procedure with pointers please? Also any pointers on installing a complete front sight assembly as well?

Again, my biggest concern is proper headspacing of the finished assembly. Pointers would be appreciated. I will post pictures of the bolt assembly parts in a bit. Am I correct that small headspace issues can be fixed with different locking flappers? Or will a new bolt help as well? How do you folks do this without moving and reaming the barrel?

 

[GunKraut]

I am acquiring a Franken-Bubba'd G43 from a friend. He had purchased it on an online auction for what he thought was a great price. The various issues with it were not clearly stated in the auction. He held onto it for a future build project. I am now attempting that build, with the hope I will purchase it from him when done, and end up with a nice looking "correct" and shootable G43 parts gun. This particular gun looks operable as far as the action goes. The rest of the gun creates many questions to which I have no answers why Bubba did what he did.

It appears to have an almost complete G43 stock except for 1" cut from buttstock, I assume for the installation of a rubber recoil pad. There are no markings on the stock and there is no handguard. There is a large "dot" painted on either side of the buttstock comb.

The front sight has been removed and a "commercial" sight soldered on.

Worst of all, the rear sight block/receiver top "sight ears" have been ground off!!! Also the receiver/barrel has been spray coated with a shiny clear coat of something.

The magazine appears to be aftermarket, but does have correct markings stamped in for an authentic look.
The complete trigger group/guard assembly looks to be complete and in good condition.
The gas block already has a "Shooters Kit" installed with all needed inserts. I have a complete barreled reciever on the way that will need a new front sight assembly (have it) and gas block. I want to remove the gas block with shooters kit from the bubba gun to install on the "new" barreled action. How hard is this? I hope just punch out the pin and use hammer and brass punch to drive off gas block. Or is it on tighter than that???

So to bring this Franken-bubba'd gun back from the brink of despair, my friend is sending me everything he has collected over the past eleven years. I will have all the parts needed, so assuming the gas block and front sight assembly cooperate, the build should be fairly straight forward. Of course the biggest and most important task will be insuring proper headspace between my current bolt assembly and the "new" barrel. I have 8mm no-go and field gauges. I use a live factory round as a go gauge. Please inform me how easy it is to get correct headspacing in builds like these!! If headspace is not correct, can new locking flappers be used to correct it? Any pointers on how to get correct headspacing would be appreciated. Once the rest of the parts arrive and I get some things put together I will post more pictures here. Please check back. I will need plenty of pointers. Thanks.

If I am successful, and complete this restoration, he will give me the opportunity to buy it from him. i hope to glean from the collective wealth of knowledge here to complete this task.

The "dots" on the butt stock comb are wooden inlays covering up what used to be the cutout for the sling.
The receiver appears to be St. Etienne, making the rifle either a Gustloff or Walther, IMO. The receiver may be functional but has been destroyed beyond repair. The bolt carrier has been too cozy with the buffing wheel. A replacement barreled action is the way to go. I would apply some heat to the gas block before trying to tap it off using a brass mallet. A hydraulic press would be more suited to remove the gas block, though.

 

[40ford]

Gas block

The gas block pin can vary in drilled location somewhat from maker to maker, even from different rifle lots. That gas block is press fit in rather tightly also.

 

[KneverKnew]

To remove gas block with installed "shooters kit piston" I need to remove the commercial front sight that has been soldered onto the barrel (shown in previous post.) I assume a silver solder or similar was used. Should a propane/ MAP torch work to heat up solder enough for site to come loose without hurting barrel? I'd be concentrating the flame mainly on the front sight base, not the barrel. I could also lay barrel on wet rag and wrap it behind the site base with a wet rag to prevent barrel from heating up too much.

Also, I had noticed the gas op rod was binding some when manually working it's action. I now see that the gas block/gas "shooters" piston are bending off to one side slightly. I can't tell if the gas block got warped when the piston was removed and shooters kit installed, or if the shooters kit piston itself is bent. Please advise how this may be fixed, other than putting in vice and attempting to straighten by brute force?

 

[GunKraut]

To remove gas block with installed "shooters kit piston" I need to remove the commercial front sight that has been soldered onto the barrel (shown in previous post.) I assume a silver solder or similar was used. Should a propane/ MAP torch work to heat up solder enough for site to come loose without hurting barrel? I'd be concentrating the flame mainly on the front sight base, not the barrel. I could also lay barrel on wet rag and wrap it behind the site base with a wet rag to prevent barrel from heating up too much.

Also, I had noticed the gas op rod was binding some when manually working it's action. I now see that the gas block/gas "shooters" piston are bending off to one side slightly. I can't tell if the gas block got warped when the piston was removed and shooters kit installed, or if the shooters kit piston itself is bent. Please advise how this may be fixed, other than putting in vice and attempting to straighten by brute force?

I remove soldered sights by holding the barrel over the stove at medium flame. Once the solder reflows, the sights can be tapped off with a brass mallet. If your sight has been attached with silver solder, MAP gas may be needed but apply carefully from a distance. Apply more heat to the sight than to the barrel but refrain from keeping the barrel cool on one side with a wet rag, as it will result in exactly the opposite of what you're trying to accomplish.

Before monkeying around with the gas piston, remove it from the gas block and roll it on a glass table to find out if it's bent. If it's bent, I can straighten it using a hydraulic press. It it's not bent, maybe the shoulder next to the threads is angled. I can fix that, too. Worst case the gas block has an issue. That can also be fixed but for this it's better to have the gas block already attached to the new barrel.

 

[KneverKnew]

Looking at bolt, carrier and cover assembly:

Looks like numbers match on bolt, flaps and bolt carrier. Bolt cover is stamped and has no markings. Top sliding dust cover is missing. Please look at pictures and let me know if all looks in good working order.

Does the rear seam of the bolt cover look okay?

Can the slight bend be fixed easily, or just better to leave alone? Everything still seems to go together fine.

There are no Waffen marks or numbers on the barrel or receiver. The only other Waffen marks are on the bolt flaps.

Other detailed photos of bolt and carrier/cover:

 

[waffenmeister]

Sorry but I think you need to give this some more thought. In the condition of this piece numbers mean nothing. I think you are about to sink a bundle of money into something that will never be worth anything and you will never really be happy with. Just sayin.....

 

[GunKraut]

The only internal part I'm not thrilled about is the firing pin carrier. O/P should lap it with 600 grid emery cloth to see if the discoloration goes away or if there's pitting left behind which will interfere with proper locking lug operation. The beat up bolt housing is something I expect to see in a rifle used for shooting questionable ammo without a shooter kit.

 

[KneverKnew]

Sorry but I think you need to give this some more thought. In the condition of this piece numbers mean nothing. I think you are about to sink a bundle of money into something that will never be worth anything and you will never really be happy with. Just sayin.....

So your saying the bolt assembly pieces look in bad shape? I'm not concerned about the numbers or collectible. That is out the window long ago. I'm just wondering if these parts can be assembled with another good condition barreled receiver and stock to make a good shooter? I've already removed the pin and tapped the gas block from it's position. Very easy. My only obstacle now to getting it off is that blasted front sight base.

As far as re-thinking it, my thoughts are...pull parts from this gun....put on another gun...get parts gun working. Are you saying I'm wasting my time with these parts?

 

[waffenmeister]

My post was not about the condition of the parts, that was GunKraut. I sure don't take pleasure in raining on someones parade but I think you are about to sink a huge sum of money into something simply not worth the time or money, but I do realize it is your money, not mine.

 

[sprat]

So your saying the bolt assembly pieces look in bad shape? I'm not concerned about the numbers or collectible. That is out the window long ago. I'm just wondering if these parts can be assembled with another good condition barreled receiver and stock to make a good shooter? I've already removed the pin and tapped the gas block from it's position. Very easy. My only obstacle now to getting it off is that blasted front sight base.

As far as re-thinking it, my thoughts are...pull parts from this gun....put on another gun...get parts gun working. Are you saying I'm wasting my time with these parts?

probably in place with low heat solder

 

[GunKraut]

I'd say the O/P already has all the parts needed to put a rifle together. Maybe not premium condition parts but good enough to squirt off a couple rounds. I would take it from there.
Most of us who shoot their G/K43 do so with bolt assemblies from other rifles and hardly ever have I heard of problems with head space.
If in doubt, there's a cheap, easy way to get a good feel for head space using unprimed resized shells and copper foil shims. If head space isn't good, swapping locking lugs and bolts will often fix the problem.
Before checking head space, cratering on the face of the bolt around the firing pin hole needs to be knocked down.

 

[KneverKnew]

My post was not about the condition of the parts, that was GunKraut. I sure don't take pleasure in raining on someones parade but I think you are about to sink a huge sum of money into something simply not worth the time or money, but I do realize it is your money, not mine.

Just for curiosity sake, lets just say that I am able to assemble all the parts together with a new Polish made stock so that I end up with a G43 shooter that actually is safe and in original issued condition. If I were able to accomplish such a feat, how much would a non-matching, shootable parts gun be worth?

I plan on finishing the project as best I can, and then, if I don't decide to buy it from him, he can sell it as he pleases.

 

[GunKraut]

Just for curiosity sake, lets just say that I am able to assemble all the parts together with a new Polish made stock so that I end up with a G43 shooter that actually is safe and in original issued condition. If I were able to accomplish such a feat, how much would a non-matching, shootable parts gun be worth?

I plan on finishing the project as best I can, and then, if I don't decide to buy it from him, he can sell it as he pleases.

$1200 - $1600 depending on the quality of the stock. There were some early stocks that had the grain direction criss crossed between layers. You can get much more $$$ selling a rifle piece meal on eBay and Gunporker compared to selling it in one piece.

 

[KneverKnew]

$1200 - $1600 depending on the quality of the stock. There were some early stocks that had the grain direction criss crossed between layers. You can get much more $$$ selling a rifle piece meal on eBay and Gunporker compared to selling it in one piece.

My friend suggested $1300 for the finished product. I know he paid several hundred just for the stock he got on ebay years ago from Poland. My understanding is this is one of the really nice quality stocks available for the G43. I'll know better when it arrives. It's in the mail.

 

[KneverKnew]

I'd say the O/P already has all the parts needed to put a rifle together. Maybe not premium condition parts but good enough to squirt off a couple rounds. I would take it from there.
Most of us who shoot their G/K43 do so with bolt assemblies from other rifles and hardly ever have I heard of problems with head space.
If in doubt, there's a cheap, easy way to get a good feel for head space using unprimed resized shells and copper foil shims. If head space isn't good, swapping locking lugs and bolts will often fix the problem.
Before checking head space, cratering on the face of the bolt around the firing pin hole needs to be knocked down.

Thank you very much. This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. At least now I know that the good bolt and flappers I have stand a good chance of headspacing correctly in the "new" barreled receiver that I am about to receive.

I do have headspace gauges for 8mm, so I will definitely test prior to trying to shoot.

I assume you are saying you saw a problem on my bolt face? I will check it out.

 

[DtheD]

How do you plan to address the bolt cover crack? Are you going to have it welded and restored or try to replace it? With the shooter's kit you shouldn't have to worry about the bolt striking the rear, but it still might let go and pop out?
Might a reenactor be interested in a shootable frankenrifle, assuming he just wants one to carry and shoot blanks as opposed to 100% correct for historical accuracy?