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Hand Guard finish question

Eorrick

Member
what are your thoughts on the upper fore grip on my new rifle? refinish it down or find a better match?
 

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Don't touch it in the slightest. It looks like it's a Durofol handguard (made using molded wood veneers) and is correct for any Berlin Lubecker Maschinenfabrik made rifle (duv or qve factory code). The inside of the handguard should be marked Durofol in a diamond. Can we get some more pics of the rifle?
 
I believe that's a Durofol handguard as found on duv rifles. Strangely my K block ac44 had one and several have been reported in this range on Walther rifles. Although it's often said they were replacements, I believe it may have been original. Nice to find one as they are less common than wooden handguards.
 
Don't touch it in the slightest. It looks like it's a Durofol handguard (made using molded wood veneers) and is correct for any Berlin Lubecker Maschinenfabrik made rifle (duv or qve factory code). The inside of the handguard should be marked Durofol in a diamond. Can we get some more pics of the rifle?
More coming tomorrow. I’m new to this weapon. Always wanted one and after I watch YouTube on disassembly I will take more pics then. It is a walther and has a non matching magazine and a small part of the bolt but the rest is all matching
 
Also if you're new to the gun make sure that you depress the screw stops with a punch while turning the screws. It's easy to damage something trying to ride the screws over the stops, and I've seen more than one youtuber do it wrong.
 
mags weren't numbered to match the gun so you're good on that front.

What's the m/m bolt part?
havent learned the correct names, they are chrome/shiney metal and are 2 almost duplicate parts that are inside the bolt.
what are your thoughts on the upper fore grip on my new rifle? refinish it down or find a better match?
what are your thoughts on the upper fore grip on my new rifle? refinish it down or find a better match?G43-18.jpgG43-13.jpgg43-14.jpgg43-15.jpgg43-17.jpg
 

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havent learned the correct names, they are chrome/shiney metal and are 2 almost duplicate parts that are inside the bolt.
Well, your rifle is not a Walther but a Berlin Lubecker Maschinenfabrik with that duv44 code of the reveiver. Walther made rifles used the "ac" code. BLM rifles were inspected with WaA214 or an eagle over 214 and overall, yours looks rather nice. The 2 parts you are referring to are the locking flaps which will have the last 2 digits of the serial number electropenciled on them like in this picture (last 2 are 74 in pic, kinda hard to see but present, top is upside down). Most of the bolt components will be numbered in electropencil (bolt, firing pin housing, action cover, extractor). The notched locking flap matches a corresponding nub on the bolt so that the flaps are put together in the same manner for consistency. Also, your stock should be numbered on the keel with some additional proofs behind the triggerguard, on the wrist, and closer to the buttplate, show us more!
 

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Well, your rifle is not a Walther but a Berlin Lubecker Maschinenfabrik with that duv44 code of the reveiver. Walther made rifles used the "ac" code. BLM rifles were inspected with WaA214 or an eagle over 214 and overall, yours looks rather nice. The 2 parts you are referring to are the locking flaps which will have the last 2 digits of the serial number electropenciled on them like in this picture (last 2 are 74 in pic, kinda hard to see but present, top is upside down). Most of the bolt components will be numbered in electropencil (bolt, firing pin housing, action cover, extractor). The notched locking flap matches a corresponding nub on the bolt so that the flaps are put together in the same manner for consistency. Also, your stock should be numbered on the keel with some additional proofs behind the triggerguard, on the wrist, and closer to the buttplate, show us more!
had to have one, saw this and said hell yes. paid under 4k. tearing it apart tonight!
 
havent learned the correct names, they are chrome/shiney metal and are 2 almost duplicate parts that are inside the bolt.

Already addressed up-thread but focusing on it to make sure you see it: there is a left and a right flap, that cut-out fits a nub on the bolt body. Make sure to put them together the correct way, if it won't fit don't try to force it.

Also flip those over and you should see EP'd serial numbers. Those parts in particular can be hard to see it on, due to the shiny metal. It helps to turn them back and forth under different lighting conditions. I find that the numbers are usually most visible when viewed at a significant angle.
 
had to have one, saw this and said hell yes. paid under 4k. tearing it apart tonight!
Damn, that's a great deal with the original scope. I've been looking for a nice qve45 with Durofol handguard like yours and haven't had any luck finding one. Maybe one day
 
Well, your rifle is not a Walther but a Berlin Lubecker Maschinenfabrik with that duv44 code of the reveiver. Walther made rifles used the "ac" code. BLM rifles were inspected with WaA214 or an eagle over 214 and overall, yours looks rather nice. The 2 parts you are referring to are the locking flaps which will have the last 2 digits of the serial number electropenciled on them like in this picture (last 2 are 74 in pic, kinda hard to see but present, top is upside down). Most of the bolt components will be numbered in electropencil (bolt, firing pin housing, action cover, extractor). The notched locking flap matches a corresponding nub on the bolt so that the flaps are put together in the same manner for consistency. Also, your stock should be numbered on the keel with some additional proofs behind the triggerguard, on the wrist, and closer to the buttplate, show us more!
not sure why i said Walther but thanks... now i have a K98 and a G43 both from DUV, didnt even try LOL... awesome how that works out...
 
1st pics. I can’t figure out what it says. Looks rubbed out or jihad jerry had it???
 

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Ok. So every part I see electro pencil on matches. Great find for sure!!! No pencil on trigger guard or front sling point or the sight hood and rear sight.
 

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Is this gas tube broken ? It’s original and numbered. Can it be fixed?
 

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Yes, the collar of the gas cylinder is missing but a good TIG welder can attach a new piece. It most likely boke off when someone tried to disassemble the rifle in an era before YouTube.
 

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