I have a question on my barreled action that was given to me. I know the value will never match a numbers matching rifle, but if I matched all the parts to the eagle135 stamp, would that help the value any, or should I not even worry about that? Thanks in advance for you're answers!
barreled action
- Thread starter gmh67
- Start date
Much depends on your definition of an barreled action, too me a barreled action would include the matching bolt, if so it could be worth a restoration expense, for it would make a very good shooting rifle in most cases. That said a 1942-45 WMO (byf) is never going to be "rare" except in very specific circumstances and often that value or rarity depends on the original stock.
Anyway, more information is needed but in general, if the "barreled action" is in nice condition (original finish, no serious distractions, porosity or abuse) I would certain consider a limited restoration, but much would depend on the date and or budget you have allowed for this...
Anyway, more information is needed but in general, if the "barreled action" is in nice condition (original finish, no serious distractions, porosity or abuse) I would certain consider a limited restoration, but much would depend on the date and or budget you have allowed for this...
All I have is the receiver and barrel. The bluing and bore are in excellent shape. No rust at all. Actually looks like it has never been fired. The year is 1944. I don't really have a budget yet. Still looking at available parts for it.
Every collector is different, but I would call yours a barreled receiver, the action the three original components, but this is less important than condition and or where your rifle falls into production. As MC asked, where it falls in 1944 is almost important as the date, - 1942-43 such would matter little, but in 1944 there are a couple considerations, especially in a resto... but this totally depends on whether you seek a general restoration with little or no attempt to make it look correct according to serial (in 1944 there are considerable variations to parts needed, 1942-43 less so) or whether you want a authentic restoration. The latter seems impractical considering it is just a barreled receiver, certainly the result will result in the effort being a matter of the value of the sum of parts, but I certainly am not one to judge others on the practicality of restorations, I have attempted the most uneconomical of all restorations, or rather the attempts (I don't think I satisfied myself on a single attempt)... from a b/r only the rarest rifles really are worth the attempt (imo), especially in the case of a byf/44.
As MC stated, give us more details, serial number or at least the number of digits and most importantly the suffix, not only this will help to determine how "rare" or difficult it will be, but in large part whether it is worthwhile at all, - in most cases the former will be pretty easy and the latter probably not (to most people).
As MC stated, give us more details, serial number or at least the number of digits and most importantly the suffix, not only this will help to determine how "rare" or difficult it will be, but in large part whether it is worthwhile at all, - in most cases the former will be pretty easy and the latter probably not (to most people).
Top of receiver says byf 44. 4 digit serial number with a C following.
I'm assuming that since it is a byf that the collector value isn't going to be there. Especially due to the missing pieces. I have toyed with the idea of either turning it into a replica sniper for competition or just getting as close to original as possible. I'm new to this and still learning about block codes and other things concerning these rifles. I believe it is a 1944 production with a 4 digit serial number and a C following it.
I wouldn't bother with a authentic restoration, maybe if you can come across some late stamped unmarked or byf parts I would put a preference to using those, but below are the general type of parts you would need to follow to restore a byf/44 c-block:
Bands - Stamped or solid milled, would have last four digits. Milled band springs are most common. (RB's are almost always milled until the g-block)
Trigger guard - stamped TG and FP in almost all cases, TG last four and FP last two digits. TG two e/135's. When milled FP no waffenamt, but four digit serialing.
Bolts - all recorded are FN (e/140), last four on all parts, last two on ebox.
Stocks - all known laminate, but walnut is known a-b blocks. buttplates are often sub-contracted. Typical E/WaA135 RS, wrist and probably lower butt, though the latter is rarely clear or defined.
Naturally, such a restoration is probably impractical to take to extremes, but use the above as a guide line, the forum probably offers examples in pictures, maybe not a c-block but generally up until the L-block things are serialed in one manner or another and milled is possible, though increasingly rare, well though most of 1944.
Might be best to just stick with e/135 components and not worry about serialing or proper component make, maybe focus on keeping consistency in overall condition and appearance.
** I agree outcome will value to the sum of parts used, that is generally true of all restorations, most, if not all get parted out in one form or another. Personally, I wouldn't bother, money involved (if quality parts are sought) could probably buy a decent bolt mismatched rifle in pretty good condition. Really as good as any option is just stocking and outfitting it with rc parts, make it a shooter, would still be an original finished un-dicked with metal b/r and otherwise as "historic" as any rc (which are pure nonsensical propaganda used to inflate their value far beyond any realistic measure... which of course is the purpose of propaganda, promote or inflate a product, cause or ideology... unfortunately this works nearly as well on reasonably intelligent individuals when repeated over and over as the stupid and gullible..)
Bands - Stamped or solid milled, would have last four digits. Milled band springs are most common. (RB's are almost always milled until the g-block)
Trigger guard - stamped TG and FP in almost all cases, TG last four and FP last two digits. TG two e/135's. When milled FP no waffenamt, but four digit serialing.
Bolts - all recorded are FN (e/140), last four on all parts, last two on ebox.
Stocks - all known laminate, but walnut is known a-b blocks. buttplates are often sub-contracted. Typical E/WaA135 RS, wrist and probably lower butt, though the latter is rarely clear or defined.
Naturally, such a restoration is probably impractical to take to extremes, but use the above as a guide line, the forum probably offers examples in pictures, maybe not a c-block but generally up until the L-block things are serialed in one manner or another and milled is possible, though increasingly rare, well though most of 1944.
Might be best to just stick with e/135 components and not worry about serialing or proper component make, maybe focus on keeping consistency in overall condition and appearance.
** I agree outcome will value to the sum of parts used, that is generally true of all restorations, most, if not all get parted out in one form or another. Personally, I wouldn't bother, money involved (if quality parts are sought) could probably buy a decent bolt mismatched rifle in pretty good condition. Really as good as any option is just stocking and outfitting it with rc parts, make it a shooter, would still be an original finished un-dicked with metal b/r and otherwise as "historic" as any rc (which are pure nonsensical propaganda used to inflate their value far beyond any realistic measure... which of course is the purpose of propaganda, promote or inflate a product, cause or ideology... unfortunately this works nearly as well on reasonably intelligent individuals when repeated over and over as the stupid and gullible..)
Thankyou very much! This a big help to me and gives me a direction to go!
SatThuVoBui
Well-known member
Restorations are expensive and are generally not to be attempted if you are exclusively looking for a cheap and economical shooter. With that said, restoring a rifle with all correct parts and aiming to make it as authentic as possible can be a very good learning opportunity and is a great way to learn more about the weapon that you're working on beyond just reading about it online or in published material. It gives you a "hands on" experience and enhances the learning by making it more interactive and involving you more.
I did a project just like this one, although unfortunately mine was a r/c barreled receiver and did not have the original German finishing on it. However, I did the restoration because it's a rare code and the factory correct parts were available.
http://www.k98kforum.com/showthread.php?43125-BSW-1938-restoration-project
All in all I must've spent around $1200-$1300 for parts which, as Lowe said, approaches the price of a bolt m/m, and so it's really up to you whether or not you want to spend the kind of money to attempt the project. Don't ever let anyone else tell you what has value and what doesn't. It's all subjective. Even with the finishing on my rifle being R/C, it's still a BSW to me, and I wouldn't trade my resto'd BSW for just about anything!
You could probably restore a BYF for considerably less than what I spent if you got r/c parts and did not mind certain things being factory incorrect and are just looking for a shooter.
I did a project just like this one, although unfortunately mine was a r/c barreled receiver and did not have the original German finishing on it. However, I did the restoration because it's a rare code and the factory correct parts were available.
http://www.k98kforum.com/showthread.php?43125-BSW-1938-restoration-project
All in all I must've spent around $1200-$1300 for parts which, as Lowe said, approaches the price of a bolt m/m, and so it's really up to you whether or not you want to spend the kind of money to attempt the project. Don't ever let anyone else tell you what has value and what doesn't. It's all subjective. Even with the finishing on my rifle being R/C, it's still a BSW to me, and I wouldn't trade my resto'd BSW for just about anything!
You could probably restore a BYF for considerably less than what I spent if you got r/c parts and did not mind certain things being factory incorrect and are just looking for a shooter.
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Restorations are expensive and are generally not to be attempted if you are exclusively looking for a cheap and economical shooter. With that said, restoring a rifle with all correct parts and aiming to make it as authentic as possible can be a very good learning opportunity and is a great way to learn more about the weapon that you're working on beyond just reading about it online or in published material. It gives you a "hands on" experience and enhances the learning by making it more interactive and involving you more.
I did a project just like this one, although unfortunately mine was a r/c barreled receiver and did not have the original German finishing on it. However, I did the restoration because it's a rare code and the factory correct parts were available.
http://www.k98kforum.com/showthread.php?43125-BSW-1938-restoration-project
All in all I must've spent around $1200-$1300 for parts which, as Lowe said, approaches the price of a bolt m/m, and so it's really up to you whether or not you want to spend the kind of money to attempt the project. Don't ever let anyone else tell you what has value and what doesn't. It's all subjective. Even with the finishing on my rifle being R/C, it's still a BSW to me, and I wouldn't trade my resto'd BSW for just about anything!
I was also looking at it as an experience and to gain more knowledge about these rifles. It has caused me to do some research and buy some books on the rifle. I was looking for some guidance from the more experienced people on this forum before I decided which way to go. Thanks for you're input.
