Third Party Press

CE 42

Dankrez28

Well-known member
All,

I have a CE 42 I purchased from Legacy Collectibles a few weeks ago. I was told there are several noticeable issues on gunboards about the serial, buttplate, and barrel bands. Gun appears all matching, not 100% sure if its faked. Its been drilled unfortunately but im curious, if anyone knows more about this rifle I’d appreciate the knowledge. Some people on gunboards have accounts on here so if you have seen this already, just getting a second opinion

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I don’t feel too good about that bolt…

The picture you provided isn’t that clear, but I have a bad feeling about it.
 
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Gotcha, yours is very distinct. This hopefully is a better picture

You know, seeing it from that angle and much clearer, I’m actually much more confident of those stampings.

Looks to me like Turbo Archie gave it the green light over on GB… I’d take his word for it before I listen to anyone else over there…
 
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I don’t feel too good about that bolt…

The picture you provided isn’t that clear, but I have a bad feeling about it.

Gotcha, yours is very distinct. This hopefully is a better picture
Gotcha, yours is very distinct. This hopefully is a better picture
Here’s my ce 43 for comparison, notice the difference on your bolt and shroud as compared to this original.

View attachment 333759
You know, seeing it from that angle and much clearer, I’m actually a little more confident of those stampings.

Looks to me like Turbo Archie gave it the green light over on GB… I’d take his word for it before I listen to anyone else over there…
Great to hear, thank you! What do you think of the serial numbers on the receiver, the first 3 is a different font and stamp?
 
Might either make a great sniper clone, or grab a $40 slotted screw kit from Pachmayr and use the plugs and call it good
 
Great to hear, thank you! What do you think of the serial numbers on the receiver, the first 3 is a different font and stamp?

As for the font difference, I’d honestly not count anything out. If there’s one thing I’ve learned collecting German and Japanese WW2, it’s to never count anything out. I’ll have to reference the books
 
As for the font difference, I’d honestly not count anything out. If there’s one thing I’ve learned collecting German and Japanese WW2, it’s to never count anything out. I’ll have to reference the books
Great, thank you so much for your help!
 
Great, thank you so much for your help!

I noticed you have an incorrect cleaning rod, you can always source one here in the trader.

Also, I’ve seen quite a few (including my own) JPS manufactured rifles with finish that just doesn’t hold up. As I understand it, they are known for this lower quality bluing. Yours seems to be in excellent condition for a mid war rifle, and the wood is excellent. It’s been well taken care of aside from the drill and tap.
 
That is right, the cleaning rod is silver and too small for the rifle, I definitely will try to acquire a new one. Thats great info, the bluing is very good, i didnt know Sauers didn’t have good bluing. Im gonna put screws in the tap to make it safe. The wood is phenomenal for the k98’s I have, I definitely will keep preserving it. Your info has helped a ton
 
ugg... such a shame some moron would do this to a matching 42 date.... sucks they ruined it. As someone mentioned you can get screws fill in the holes and blend them. I have seen this done if done well it can be hardly noticeable . Or make an in correct turret out of it..
 
I like the stock and the bluing. would follow mauser99's advice and fill in the holes so not so noticeable. A shame when folks do this but have seen a few over the years. Overall not a bad looking rifle.
 
I think this rifle is worth throwing some dollars at.
Holes are easy to fix. Here’s some I repaired on an Original Oberndorf sporter.
The front ring was repaired with press fit plugs, the rear bridge was TIG welded.
These were done before I discovered laser welding, now I send jobs out for the laser treatment that generates virtually no heat.
 

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I think this rifle is worth throwing some dollars at.
Holes are easy to fix. Here’s some I repaired on an Original Oberndorf sporter.
The front ring was repaired with press fit plugs, the rear bridge was TIG welded.
These were done before I discovered laser welding, now I send jobs out for the laser treatment that generates virtually no heat.
That looks really good, this is exactly what I need to do
 
While that is extremely impressive work, you would have to reblue it, taking it even farther from being original. It will always be a repaired reblued example.
I still think scoping it is the best option.
 

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