e.pack & s. bayonet K98 ID please

[GColloton]

e.pack & s. bayonet K98 ID please
Hi. I just got this K98 bayonet. It’s made by e.pack & sohn and I’m having trouble ID’ing the stamp under the numbers. Maybe an “n”, “h”, or “R” for the year code. Or maybe it’s not a year code letter? The Numbers are 7967.

Oddly there’s a reproduction on the market from e.pack with very similar numbers “9767 h”.

I won’t have the bayonet for a couple more days, but here’s a few pics if you can help me ID and have any info about the bayonet (year made, tips on cleaning or preserving it, etc.

I plan on getting a K98k German made Rifle in the next few months. I bought this bayonet a little prematurely, but they seem to be more expensive than the US and British bayonets Ive purchased for my other rifles and I think I got a good deal.

Thanks.

 

[AndyB]

I see there is not E.Pack on bayonet, more likely 4x asw, which is Hoerster Solingen, to this is corect the scribed letter r under serials, so when the red rivet grips are correct it could be 43 or 44 date anyway there was normally used a wood as grip material, so is possible the piece is a refurbishment. The locking nut in pommel is a replacement, question is the scabbard matching to bayonet and blade looks like sharpened a little. Anyway is not a repro piece.

 

[heavy_mech]

Maybe an “n”, “h”, or “R” for the year code. Or maybe it’s not a year code letter? The Numbers are 7967.

It would be the serial number suffix or 'block'. They ran 1 to 9999, then 1a to 9999a, etc. As Andy said yours is an r block. If you have it in hand see if you can find any other stamps and check the scabbard for it's serial.

 

[GColloton]

I see there is not E.Pack on bayonet, more likely 4x asw, which is Hoerster Solingen, to this is corect the scribed letter r under serials, so when the red rivet grips are correct it could be 43 or 44 date anyway there was normally used a wood as grip material, so is possible the piece is a refurbishment. The locking nut in pommel is a replacement, question is the scabbard matching to bayonet and blade looks like sharpened a little. Anyway is not a repro piece.

I think I have more information now. I bought the bayonet on eBay and the seller must not have known what it was I guess, so they used a title and description from another auction. I searched completed auctions and found the same exact title that included E.Pack & s and the bayonet number from the original listing. So that’s why I thought it was an e.pack & s. I’m not worried that the seller was trying to be deceiving, they have very good feedback and don’t sell these type of items normally it looks like.

I paid $120 for the bayonet and bought it as soon as it was listed. I thought that was a pretty good deal for a bayonet, scabbard, and frog. It was worth the gamble I thought to see if it had a matching number on the scabbard. However as a novice, I did not know that the locking nut on the pommel was replaced and the grips might not be original.

I will have it in hand this week, and I will inspect it and look at the markings and numbers to see if they match and what is under the grips on the reverse side. If it turns out that only the locking nut on the pommel has been replaced is it still worth $120 that I paid? I would have thought that even if the scabbard did not match it would still be worth $120 since these seem to be going for a lot of money right now.

How can you tell that the nut on the pommel has been replaced? Is it worth trying to find a correct nut from an old or parted out similar bayonet?

I am OK if parts were replaced or refurbished by the issuing military, because that is part of the bayonets history. But if someone owned it afterwards and switched out parts I’m not too keen on that.

Let me know if you think it is worth talking to the seller about a refund if things are mismatched on it. I have a little bit of ground to stand on because it is not the manufacturer he says it was since he clearly copied another auctions title and description.

Thanks very much for answering all of these questions. I really appreciate all of your knowledge.

 

[Battle]

$120 for a K98 bayonet with leather frog isn't too bad IMO. As Andy mentioned, the locking nut is a replacement. When the item arrives please take closer, more detailed photos of the bayonet along with the frog - the back of it as well. I'd like to see closer images of the grips. Not sure if it's the angle but they don't seem to have much of a tight fit.

 

[GColloton]

$120 for a K98 bayonet with leather frog isn't too bad IMO. As Andy mentioned, the locking nut is a replacement. When the item arrives please take closer, more detailed photos of the bayonet along with the frog - the back of it as well. I'd like to see closer images of the grips. Not sure if it's the angle but they don't seem to have much of a tight fit.

I’ll take it apart, put some light oil on to protect it, take some better photos, re-assemble and take some more pics. If I end up keeping it, I’ll use a little “leather honey” leather conditioner on the frog also. This stuff has been great from previous experience brining life back into old leather without ruining its value or integrity. Thanks again very much!

 

[Battle]

I’ll take it apart, put some light oil on to protect it, take some better photos, re-assemble and take some more pics. If I end up keeping it, I’ll use a little “leather honey” leather conditioner on the frog also. This stuff has been great from previous experience brining life back into old leather without ruining its value or integrity. Thanks again very much!

Look forward to seeing it! Some of the prices I see on eBay have me scratching my head sometimes. $120 with frog included is good. Also, this is just me, but I would rather a piece that is replaced than one that is missing all together.

 

[GColloton]

Look forward to seeing it! Some of the prices I see on eBay have me scratching my head sometimes. $120 with frog included is good. Also, this is just me, but I would rather a piece that is replaced than one that is missing all together.

Ha. That’s true. At least there’s nothing missing. Is it possible the locking not on the pommel is backwards? I just watched some YouTube videos regarding disassembly and wondered that.

 

[Battle]

Ha. That’s true. At least there’s nothing missing. Is it possible the locking not on the pommel is backwards? I just watched some YouTube videos regarding disassembly and wondered that.

It does look flat. I haven't seen a replacement like that before. It's possible.

 

[AndyB]

The locking lug is a repair or someting as it looks like holed through, same as press button is untypical flat.so replacement there, same as left grip is not contoured with pommel, so the grips are probably too replacements. We will see more when You get the piece and on detailed pictures.b.r.Andy

 

[Humbarger]

Nice bayonet for the money.

 

[AndyB]

The frog looks nice, probably 35-40 bucks worth so the bayonet is only 80 then. I dont known the today exact prices in USA.

 

[grimlin13]

The frog looks nice, probably 35-40 bucks worth so the bayonet is only 80 then. I dont known the today exact prices in USA.

Some dealers have frogs in ok condition for $45 to $50. To get nice one if found $75 and up. On eBay I see stupid high prices asked for good frogs and bad frogs.

 

[Battle]

Some dealers have frogs in ok condition for $45 to $50. To get nice one if found $75 and up. On eBay I see stupid high prices asked for good frogs and bad frogs.

I agree - I've seen some for well over $100. About the price of some bayonets alone.

 

[Battle]

The locking lug is a repair or someting as it looks like holed through, same as press button is untypical flat.so replacement there, same as left grip is not contoured with pommel, so the grips are probably too replacements. We will see more when You get the piece and on detailed pictures.b.r.Andy

I was thinking the same thing concerning the grips.

 

[AndyB]

Separate frogs are always higher, even damaged bayonets could be proofed to sale for 200 and more, but that is unreal and could be buyed only by beginners or people that are not researching the area,the S84/98 are higher prices as previous years, anyway is possible buy it still in reasonable prices on some auctions when not riveted ,44sgx or extra searched makers.

 

[GColloton]

I should have the bayonet Friday. I know it’s frowned upon to do restoration to most knives and bayonets. So that said, what’s the recommended way to clean and preserve the bayonet? Metal and Bakelite (and wood grips for future reference) Once I have it apart, before I put it back together. I have some of the following:

Flitz gun and knife cleaner,
Flitz metal polish,
Remington oil,
Clenzoil (I use this on my rifles metal and wood for protection. It’s safe for both).
Dish soap,
Simple Green Degreaser,
Hot water,
Cold water,
Etc.

Thank you!!!

 

[grimlin13]

This could be a long response, but not going to do that. In short, Rem oil,clean white soft cloth ( like old T-shirt), lots of patience. Ultra fine bronze wool for any corrosion that can not be removed with the cloth. Apply oil to metal, wipe with cloth. You will figure out how much effort will be required. Be sure to switch to clean portion of cloth as soon as you see rust start to buildup on cloth. Rust can act as an abrasive that will remove the blue and scratch metal. If the blue is thin or gone do not scrub too hard. There may be patina on the metal. I leave it alone. Better to have a 75 year old patina than shiny bare metal. Only use the bronze wool on bad areas and go lightly. There are numerous posts on cleaning and preservation that are very detailed.

 

[heavy_mech]

This could be a long response, but not going to do that. In short, Rem oil,clean white soft cloth ( like old T-shirt), lots of patience. Ultra fine bronze wool for any corrosion that can not be removed with the cloth. Apply oil to metal, wipe with cloth. You will figure out how much effort will be required. Be sure to switch to clean portion of cloth as soon as you see rust start to buildup on cloth. Rust can act as an abrasive that will remove the blue and scratch metal. If the blue is thin or gone do not scrub too hard. There may be patina on the metal. I leave it alone. Better to have a 75 year old patina than shiny bare metal. Only use the bronze wool on bad areas and go lightly. There are numerous posts on cleaning and preservation that are very detailed.

That's a very good brief description IMHO, especially the part about clean white cloth and moving to a clean spot constantly. Always start easy and go from there.

 

[GColloton]

That's a very good brief description IMHO, especially the part about clean white cloth and moving to a clean spot constantly. Always start easy and go from there.

Rem oil for the Bakelite and wood also?