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Quillback Bayonet Removing Screws

H

halygon

Well-known member
Hi Experts!

I have a imperial quillback bayonet that has a bunch of surface rust. I am going to clean it up and prevent further damage but ran into a snag. The screws on it have the typical handle nuts (split with bolt/threads in the middle) on one side and then a smooth bolt on the other. I have a tool to fit the nut exactly - no problem there - but when I turn it, the bolt turns with it. I expect some "working" on it to loosen the threads and get the nut free, but I need the bolt to stay in place.

It appears that the bolt itself has ridges around the outside of it - presumably to grip into the wood of the handle to prevent spinning. Well the wood is no longer strong enough to hold onto the ridges.

So my question is, has anyone run into this before? How have you gotten the bolt to stay in place while you loosen the nut?
(Of course without damaging the nut/bolt OR the handle material.)
 
Better leave as is the wood of grips are already weak so will not hold the screw heads, possible better would be cover the grips in process of cleaning.
 
I agree with Andy. Turning the spanner nut will only spin the bolt head in place, or worse yet, snap the bolt. If you wish to clean the attaching hardware a Demel Tool with a small wire wheel will probably work well if you're careful. Good Luck!
 
AndyB said:
Better leave as is the wood of grips are already weak so will not hold the screw heads, possible better would be cover the grips in process of cleaning.
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Yep, that is an option of course... I would really love to get the wood off though and soak it all in some penetration oil though. The locking mechanism is frozen in place and even covering the wood would prevent me from getting to the rust around it.

ersatz said:
I agree with Andy. Turning the spanner nut will only spin the bolt head in place, or worse yet, snap the bolt. If you wish to clean the attaching hardware a Demel Tool with a small wire wheel will probably work well if you're careful. Good Luck!
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I have an assortment of tools to remove rust and not damage the finish or metal... but I have to dissemble to be really effective. Appreciate the response!
 
If someone knew of a way to weld or glue the smooth side to a rod, I wouldn't mind having to re-blue the bolts. It's too small for traditional welding though.
 
maybe it would be nice to see the piece, the locking lug should (only pommel area) be stacked into diesel or WD20 and then light hammer with wood to move it gently wout any damage, sometimes help add the bayonet adaptor inside the slot.
Wood should be not coated with oil, as this would damage the structure of wood, most best is the wax preparation to add on cleaned surface.
 
AndyB said:
maybe it would be nice to see the piece, the locking lug should (only pommel area) be stacked into diesel or WD20 and then light hammer with wood to move it gently wout any damage, sometimes help add the bayonet adaptor inside the slot.
Wood should be not coated with oil, as this would damage the structure of wood, most best is the wax preparation to add on cleaned surface.
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Without wood, I have a tube that I fill with Kroil and let it soak for a day or so before I attack frozen parts with a brass punch. Worked well in the past…

The wood of course is the issue.

Attached are images of both sides of the handles.
 

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Thanks the condition is not so bad, wood is well stored, not so bad, i would cover it with wax or other and proofed well oil the pommel and blade, and then clean it with brass pin, only the loose areas of rust, nothing more. The pommel is well not hammered so when only add wd20 or diesel into pommel the locking lug should be made movable. Some people even laquered the grips by heavy chemical entrosting, but i would nt do here, is not so bad is not heavy rust. After few weeks applying oil, You will see much better condition, could be proofed firstly on blade to sample. No sandpaper or circular steel brushes using.
 
What if I used some JB Weld Metal epoxy to "glue" on a metal rod to the smooth side - so I can keep it from turning. Would that hold or would the twisting motion just break it off? Again I have no problem grinding off the epoxy and refinishing just the bolts with rust bluing. Being able to clean up everything else would be worth it to me. I have not used metal epoxy before -- so unsure how strong it would be in this case.
 
For the metal, use bronze wool and ballistol only. Do not reblue anything. There is no need for refinishing to the degree you are looking at, you will kill the value and the originality by doing that….
 
I would not weld anything to the heads of those screws. the heat will damage the wood and soften the screws, If you are bound and determined to remove them, as it seems you are, even after several members have suggested just do oil and bronze/brass wool to remove the rust, (and the rust really is`t that bad), try to use a glue stick melted to the head. It might hold well enough to be able to turn the spanner nut. be sure to apply a little oil on the screw end that is inside the spanner nut, let the oil penetrate into the threads. Take your time do not rush things. The last thing you want to do is damage anything. Once done you cannot take it back, collector value is lost as is the historical value. And for the sake of preservation, do not reblue anything. Originality is worth far more than refurbished by bubba post war.

JB weld might hold. You should be able to remove any left on screw head without too much effort. Please don`t grind on anything. Take your time. In the end it is your bayonet to do with as you see fit. Just know, you do drastic measures to "refurbish" your bayonet and destroy the originality of it, don`t get butt hurt when you proudly post pics of it and we criticize you for it or just ignore you. If I was a mod, I would boot you off the forum for it.
 
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37th Div Ohio said:
For the metal, use bronze wool and ballistol only. Do not reblue anything. There is no need for refinishing to the degree you are looking at, you will kill the value and the originality by doing that….
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Only saying reblue bolt and nothing else.

grimlin13 said:
I would not weld anything to the heads of those screws. the heat will damage the wood and soften the screws, If you are bound and determined to remove them, as it seems you are, even after several members have suggested just do oil and bronze/brass wool to remove the rust, (and the rust really is`t that bad), try to use a glue stick melted to the head. It might hold well enough to be able to turn the spanner nut. be sure to apply a little oil on the screw end that is inside the spanner nut, let the oil penetrate into the threads. Take your time do not rush things. The last thing you want to do is damage anything. Once done you cannot take it back, collector value is lost as is the historical value. And for the sake of preservation, do not reblue anything. Originality is worth far more than refurbished by bubba post war.

JB weld might hold. You should be able to remove any left on screw head without too much effort. Please don`t grind on anything. Take your time. In the end it is your bayonet to do with as you see fit. Just know, you do drastic measures to "refurbish" your bayonet and destroy the originality of it, don`t get butt hurt when you proudly post pics of it and we criticize you for it or just ignore you. If I was a mod, I would boot you off the forum for it.
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Yup, had already written off actual welding - would never work out.

Gonna do a test of jb weld on some bolts I have around the garage to see if that will hold enough for the torque.

Check my other threads - I’ve no intention to refinish anything - I want to remove the rust as it’s detrimental to the longevity of the piece and — and keep the original finish on everything. I know from experience, the only way to actually clear this of rust (the right way) is with the wood off it.
 
This could be cleaned wout remove of wood, but in that case should be done more carefully not to attache the wood area, this is only a surface rust, not heavy rust.You should proof it on blade firstly.
 
AndyB said:
This could be cleaned wout remove of wood, but in that case should be done more carefully not to attache the wood area, this is only a surface rust, not heavy rust.You should proof it on blade firstly.
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I already have. It’s not heavy rust but it’s not light surface rust either. There is some minor pitting for example.
 
UPDATE: So the JB Weld epoxy did not damage the finish of the bolt - but neither did it hold - it just popped right off on first turn of the nut…. Back to the drawing board.
 
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