Stock finish - how to treat scrapes, scratches and scuff marks

[Gerst]

From reading various posts on how to repair the finish on laminate stocks the one theme that seems to run through the posts is to do as little as possible or nothing at all unless absolutely necessary. What are the options to repair scrape and general “wear and tear” marks on a stock without taking the whole finish down and re-applying? How were these stocks treated when they were made during the war and are these materials still available?

Please excuse my dumb questions.

 

[daltrey99]

From reading various posts on how to repair the finish on laminate stocks the one theme that seems to run through the posts is to do as little as possible or nothing at all unless absolutely necessary. What are the options to repair scrape and general “wear and tear” marks on a stock without taking the whole finish down and re-applying? How were these stocks treated when they were made during the war and are these materials still available?

Please excuse my dumb questions.

A collectors piece, you leave it as it is. A shooter grade, do want you want with it.

 

[Gerst]

A collectors piece, you leave it as it is. A shooter grade, do want you want with it.[/QUOTE

I don’t have any plans to fire it but I may do that at some point. I just want to know if anyone has experience with touching up a stock without pulling a total rehab.

 

[phillynick]

A collectors piece, you leave it as it is. A shooter grade, do want you want with it.

I don’t have any plans to fire it but I may do that at some point. I just want to know if anyone has experience with touching up a stock without pulling a total rehab.

What he is trying to say is that if the item is a collector piece and you expect it to carry a premium in value over a shooter, do not touch it. If the item has no collector value and you are comfortable with it being just a shooter in value, then continue down your venture. If you touch up, you destroy collector value and it's just a shooter.

 

[Gerst]

What he is trying to say is that if the item is a collector piece and you expect it to carry a premium in value over a shooter, do not touch it. If the item has no collector value and you are comfortable with it being just a shooter in value, then continue down your venture. If you touch up, you destroy collector value and it's just a shooter.

You are educating me and being new to this forum, I appreciate that.

So a shooter is a rifle one buys to fire it or just to have or display it, and a collector piece is one you buy to appreciate and to watch it appreciate. Is that correct? I think shooters appreciate too. They aren’t making any mote Of these rifles but they are making plenty more buyers!

I conclude that this isn’t the right place to ask about “Touch up” on a 98k

 

[swjXE]

A collectors piece, you leave it as it is. A shooter grade, do want you want with it.[/QUOTE

I don’t have any plans to fire it but I may do that at some point. I just want to know if anyone has experience with touching up a stock without pulling a total rehab.

What the guys are telling you is correct, however I understand the misery of having a very nice 98k that has just one or a few gouges or scratches. Sometimes they add to the character of the gun, in other cases you pick up the gun and your eyes go immediately to the imperfection. Particularly on dark walnut or even worse stained laminate the scratches really stand out. I have used the powdered Brownell's water based stains that you mix yourself to blend in scratches. Not to sand out the scratches, but to just make them the same color as the stock. I take a scrap of laminate or walnut and formulate the exact color of the original stock apply carefully with a "Q" Tip, let dry and then apply Ballistol on top and wipe off any excess with a soft cloth. I've never regretted the result or even had anyone notice that I did it. For more severe problems you can do Armorers repairs If you have observed enough originals to know how they would have been done. Also I'm sure that most of us have even seen a few reworks that had a form of Wood Dough used in deep gouges in areas not critical to the strength of the stock I've only seen this kind of repair on original Depot Rebuilds. In my experience this stuff seemed to have real sawdust in the formula. These are somewhat advanced repairs, not recommended for unexperienced folks. I was an apprentice gunsmith as a teenager and so most of this comes a bit easier to me.

 

[Gerst]

If I follow what I am reading, i should never clean or wash or wax my 1967 MGB because the corrosion and dirt are part of its history.

Sorry, but I just couldn’t resist. Sarcasm is one of my weaknesses!

 

[swjXE]

If I follow what I am reading, i should never clean or wash or wax my 1967 MGB because the corrosion and dirt are part of its history.

Sorry, but I just couldn’t resist. Sarcasm is one of my weaknesses!

When It comes down i it. I guess we all have a God given right to ruin anything we own.
If everything has to be pretty for you, I guess cars and 100% pristine guns are the best hobby for you.
I also sometimes can't resist a little sarcasm.

 

[Gerst]

Finish

What the guys are telling you is correct, however I understand the misery of having a very nice 98k that has just one or a few gouges or scratches. Sometimes they add to the character of the gun, in other cases you pick up the gun and your eyes go immediately to the imperfection. Particularly on dark walnut or even worse stained laminate the scratches really stand out. I have used the powdered Brownell's water based stains that you mix yourself to blend in scratches. Not to sand out the scratches, but to just make them the same color as the stock. I take a scrap of laminate or walnut and formulate the exact color of the original stock apply carefully with a "Q" Tip, let dry and then apply Ballistol on top and wipe off any excess with a soft cloth. I've never regretted the result or even had anyone notice that I did it. For more severe problems you can do Armorers repairs If you have observed enough originals to know how they would have been done. Also I'm sure that most of us have even seen a few reworks that had a form of Wood Dough used in deep gouges in areas not critical to the strength of the stock I've only seen this kind of repair on original Depot Rebuilds. In my experience this stuff seemed to have real sawdust in the formula. These are somewhat advanced repairs, not recommended for unexperienced folks. I was an apprentice gunsmith as a teenager and so most of this comes a bit easier to me.

My request for ideas was posted because the people on this forum include many experienced collectors who have encountered all manner of issues with the rifles they have acquired. I am asking about “touch up” of the finish, not repairs. The flaws I am talking about can be seen only if the rifle is picked up and handled.

I don’t want my stock to look like those shiny rifles offered on the GB site. I just want the finish to look the same all over the stock.

 

[Gerst]

When It comes down i it. I guess we all have a God given right to ruin anything we own.
If everything has to be pretty for you, I guess cars and 100% pristine guns are the best hobby for you.
I also sometimes can't resist a little sarcasm.

“Ruin” is a pretty strong word for cleaning a stock or waxing a car. In the end, I didnt buy either my MG or my 98k as an investment or as a hobby.

I never had time for a hobby.

A military rifle should never have a shine. Part of the stock I am talking about has a shine and parts do not, as though the shine was worn off or even scraped off. I am asking experts about this. I don’t know what the original finish looked like. I also don’t know where the stock has been or who did what to it since it was made. I want it to look genuine and the same all over.

I know about my MG because I bought it new. My rifle is 75 years old, just like the owner.

 

[swjXE]

Gerst,
I was just trying to help and I guess I failed to do so.
I'm old enough to know that "No good deed ever goes unpunished" So I respectfully bow out of this thread and wish you the best.
Cheers and great success to you!

 

[Gerst]

Gerst,
I was just trying to help and I guess I failed to do so.
I'm old enough to know that "No good deed ever goes unpunished" So I respectfully bow out of this thread and wish you the best.
Cheers and great success to you!

I know you are trying to help me. You don't want me to screw up my rifle, and I appreciate that. I plan no major undertakings. One thought I had was that possibly a prior owner had slapped some shine on the stock and part of it wore off. Like I said, the finish isn't that bad; but I'm a thick-headed German and I'd like the entire stock (other then the bumps and dings, which I can live with) to look the same.

I appreciate your comments.

 

[swjXE]

Gerst,

I think if you just want to remove shiny areas on your stock, I might put on a solvent proof glove, soak a soft cotton cloth or Q Tip with an 80% or less alcohol, apply extremely lightly and carefully just enough to remove the shiny coating and not remove the stain. Then use Ballistol or Schaftol from the German Ebay which is a as close to a period correct finish as you can find without making your own formulas.

Respectfully yours,
swjXE, aka thread killer #23456789 ,or who knows where we're at now with our thread killing status.

 

[Gerst]

Gerst,

I think if you just want to remove shiny areas on your stock, I might put on a solvent proof glove, soak a soft cotton cloth or Q Tip with an 80% or less alcohol, apply extremely lightly and carefully just enough to remove the shiny coating and not remove the stain. Then use Ballistol or Schaftol from the German Ebay which is a as close to a period correct finish as you can find without making your own formulas.

Respectfully yours,
swjXE, aka thread killer #23456789 ,or who knows where we're at now with our thread killing status.

Thank you for that suggestion!

After the term “shooter” was thrown out I looked for 8mm ammunition on the web. Unless I want Egyptian or Ethiopian ammo, I am out of luck.

Any suggestions out there?

 

[daltrey99]

Thank you for that suggestion!

After the term “shooter” was thrown out I looked for 8mm ammunition on the web. Unless I want Egyptian or Ethiopian ammo, I am out of luck.

Any suggestions out there?

Both Egyptian and Ethiopian surplus is junk. Prvi Partisan (PPU) is my go to ammo if I am not handloading it myself (I handload more that using commercial ammo) Also Sellier & Bellot is good ammo to use in a shooter. You can shoot a collectors piece as well but if you break a numbered part, then you are reduced to a shooter when you replace parts. Good luck.

 

[Gerst]

Gerst,

I think if you just want to remove shiny areas on your stock, I might put on a solvent proof glove, soak a soft cotton cloth or Q Tip with an 80% or less alcohol, apply extremely lightly and carefully just enough to remove the shiny coating and not remove the stain. Then use Ballistol or Schaftol from the German Ebay which is a as close to a period correct finish as you can find without making your own formulas.

Respectfully yours,
swjXE, aka thread killer #23456789 ,or who knows where we're at now with our thread killing status.

Unless I use an abrasive of some kind, alcohol or some other solvent like mineral oil won’t do anything. I decided to leave the stock alone. It is what it is!

I’ve posted pictures.

 

[Rutche]

I think the stock looks great, the wear is part of the rifles life the dents are the battle scars, or maybe even storage dings that it acquired in its time. I think it looks beautiful

 

[heavy_mech]

..I looked for 8mm ammunition on the web. Unless I want Egyptian or Ethiopian ammo, I am out of luck.

Any suggestions out there?

Either Remington Core-Lokt or Federal Power Shok should be available locally?? Before the insane panic buying of the last few months, this was relatively untouched but I also see now most of my go to places also list all these out of stock?? Ridiculous actually but it's where we are atm. Both of those were relatively affordable and are soft shooting 'Lawyer Loads'. Good luck.

 

[sheepdog]

Thank you for that suggestion!

After the term “shooter” was thrown out I looked for 8mm ammunition on the web. Unless I want Egyptian or Ethiopian ammo, I am out of luck.

Any suggestions out there?

https://www.centerfiresystems.com/product/surplus-8mm-ammo-150rds#product_detail

Yugo surplus is excellent though I'm stocked up on 198 gr. Not familar with 180 gr. but it has to be better than the commercial stuff. Learn how to clean corrosive which is no big deal.

 

[Gerst]

Gerst,

I think if you just want to remove shiny areas on your stock, I might put on a solvent proof glove, soak a soft cotton cloth or Q Tip with an 80% or less alcohol, apply extremely lightly and carefully just enough to remove the shiny coating and not remove the stain. Then use Ballistol or Schaftol from the German Ebay which is a as close to a period correct finish as you can find without making your own formulas.

Respectfully yours,
swjXE, aka thread killer #23456789 ,or who knows where we're at now with our thread killing status.

I tried the alcohol and even tried mineral spirits but the areas with the shiny finish did not change. Some “dirt” came off on the cloth but that was it.

I had posted pics on a new thread. One member concluded that the stock had been poorly restored Suggesting that a person with knowledge and skill could make it better. Do you have any suggestions short of removing what is left of the old finish and redoing it?