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Buy complete; build from scratch; or rescue a bubba?

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moleary648

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I'm a multi-weapon, multi-era collector trying to fill a few German WWII-era gaps (Luger and 98K mainly). After you guys saved me from buying a Mitchell-like force-matched 243 1940 last year, I've spent more time on this forum than most others I frequent. Definitely one of the classiest group of experts and helpers I've ever seen. That said, while I prefer to find original/correct, I have had loads of fun rescuing sportered old wooden milsurps like Spfld 03s and 1917s. So my question is would it be easier/faster/cheaper/funner to a) solicit this forum for an original or at most a bolt mismatch rifle, b) beg, barter, scrounge a stock, barreled action, and misc parts with all correct codes/markings for a particular maker/era; or c) buy a mostly matching bubba/sporter to rescue with correct parts and a decent stock?

If b or c is your preference, besides the WaA code listing in the reference section, is there another source in the forum somewhere that connects component subcontractors (and their codes) with the main contractors for certain part types in certain timeframes?

Thanks in advance...enjoy this forum immensely.
Mike
 
If you love restoring go for it. It's getting harder to find good examples and the prices are climbing on everything and even sporters are getting hard to find. I had one from my great uncle so I restored it, the stock was the only part I had to find (had some spare unmarked bands) so did not cost that much. So my investment was not much but it has meaning. I would take bob's advice. In the end it might cost about the same depending how much you pay for parts of course.
 
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I actually have a stock laying around but have never been able to identify it...maybe someone here can help. Got it for pennies due to the filler repair attempt over an old sportered sling swivel cutout, but it looks good with sharp edges otherwise. Can you guys ID based on these channel numbers/letters? Looks to me like "89377 5 32 OP-" with a "g" on the forend.20220108_221658.jpg20220108_221739.jpg20220108_221819.jpg20220111_194403.jpg20220111_194540.jpg (Nothing shows on the butt end that I can see.)
 
You won't be happy with that stock in the long run. Hence why you got it for pennies. You could do a better repair but it will be what it is, repaired bubba. Take pictures of any markings on the side of the butt stock. plus side shots of the stock to see the details of the bolt cutout, sling cutout and takedown disc.
 
Thanks...but would at least like an idea of what it is or came off of. Any ideas? Here are the other pix you requested...
 

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Not sure about it being cut as it measures a straight 37-7/8" across the top line. Even under magnification, I can't see any markings on the disc.
 
moleary648 said:
I'm a multi-weapon, multi-era collector trying to fill a few German WWII-era gaps (Luger and 98K mainly). After you guys saved me from buying a Mitchell-like force-matched 243 1940 last year, I've spent more time on this forum than most others I frequent. Definitely one of the classiest group of experts and helpers I've ever seen. That said, while I prefer to find original/correct, I have had loads of fun rescuing sportered old wooden milsurps like Spfld 03s and 1917s. So my question is would it be easier/faster/cheaper/funner to a) solicit this forum for an original or at most a bolt mismatch rifle, b) beg, barter, scrounge a stock, barreled action, and misc parts with all correct codes/markings for a particular maker/era; or c) buy a mostly matching bubba/sporter to rescue with correct parts and a decent stock?

If b or c is your preference, besides the WaA code listing in the reference section, is there another source in the forum somewhere that connects component subcontractors (and their codes) with the main contractors for certain part types in certain timeframes?

Thanks in advance...enjoy this forum immensely.
Mike
Click to expand...
I 2nd Bob’s vote, but also: “all of the above”. It really depends on what makes you happy. To take a spot in your diverse collection, a bolt mm/matched everything else would be ideal, and not the most expensive option. A really nice matched high condition rare rifle will set you back considerably, but it’s rather like your wife’s best china or linens, it only comes out on special occasions, and you may be nervous about handling it too much or not shooting it due to value. While there’s a certain satisfaction that comes with fixing/correcting a sportered rifle, often that feeling is the greater value to be gained, the rifle will still be a rescue in the end.

like a multiple choice test, the answer may be: “all of the above” (but beware!)-

I think HM’s suggestion that the stock is a ‘40 has merit, it has a large TD disc, and looks like it is laminated, but flat plate. (the end treated with a belt sander). When I look at the pic of the bolt cutout, it looks like the side of the stock was block sanded to restore the rounded edges. perhaps its just the pic lighting, but that’s what I see.
 
Many thanks for all the feedback. Very interesting that you both said "40" out of the blue, as that's what I thought I could make out on close inspection, but somehow couldn't capture the faint "40" with the camera.

And Muncher you're right about the dilemma. I can see myself trying to rescue a sporter (whether with this stock or another) simply due to the self-satisfaction it gives, but in the end, the collector in me may just rather get a good bolt m/m and move on to other gaps I'm hunting for.
 
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