Hello, new K98 owner here!

IMO its a treasure because it was your father’s. It’s decent looking & a 1940 ax isn’t as common as dirt tho maybe not ‘rare’. Do you know if he brought it back, or acquired it in the States post war?
Condition & missing parts: I assume that dad took off the butt plate & discs because he wanted to refinish the wood, & parts were misplaced later. Yes the bore looks like crap in the photo, but it ‘could be’ just dusty & need a good cleaning. It has to be pretty bad to not hit a target at 100 yards.
A ‘perfect’ K98k with all matching parts in high condition (un touched, no refinishing) with a clean shiny bore is valuable enough that it probably shouldn’t be fired, ($2k-$3k+) tho many do. From there, value steps down for things like mis matched bolt, mis matched stock, other mis matched parts & how many/how mismatched they are, & poor bore or actually unfirable. How much each detraction counts is a matter of some discussion & opinion among collectors & shooters. More than 1 answer to the question.
You wrote above that you’d inherited the rifle, do you own any other firearms? Are you a ‘gun guy’? Know anyone else who may be into older firearms w/wood stocks? Do you live in an apartment in a city or on a farm? Sorry for all the questions, but giving sound advice requires a little knowledge about a person. In your place (guessing some of the answers) I’d try to find someone local to me with some Mauser knowledge to look at the rifle with you. If you were to post your general location, it’s reasonably likely that someone on the forum is nearby, & might offer some assistance. Think about your goals in this, & the answer to the parts question will reveal itself.

Well what you show looks like it's matching and correct to the screws, minus the bolt of course. Now for this gun, the butt plate would be marked with the serial number and block suffix, so whatever you find to add won't be matching. I'd imagine it would be worth replacing those few missing parts. An unnumbered butt plate would be nice, but not sure how easy it is to find one. I never messed with the takedown disc so I can't comment on how hard (or not) it is to replace one.

Muncher 1953 said:

IMO it’s a treasure because it was your father’s. It’s decent looking & a 1940 ax isn’t as common as dirt tho maybe not ‘rare’. Do you know if he brought it back, or acquired it in the States post war?

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Yeah- it’s something that really reminds me of my father, and I will always treasure it. I’m not going to try to sell it. He wasn’t in the war. All I know is that he bought it when I was a kid, at some point in the 70’s. I was always intrigued by it!

Muncher 1953 said:

Condition & missing parts: I assume that dad took off the butt plate & discs because he wanted to refinish the wood, & parts were misplaced later. Yes the bore looks like crap in the photo, but it ‘could be’ just dusty & need a good cleaning. It has to be pretty bad to not hit a target at 100 yards.

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I do not think that is the case, because i don’t ever remember seeing it in any other condition. He never took even a screwdriver to it. Not to my knowledge. He didn’t pay much for it back then, but I don’t remember what he paid.
Ya- once I learn how to clean the bore without damaging it further, I will, and post pics to see what you gentlemen think. And I’d love to eventually fire it, if it would be safe to do so. Funny thing is, I know my father never fired the weapon, ever. But the guy he bought it from I believe, after researching, had a box of the wrong ammo with it. It came with a 20count box of Norma 7.65 ARG. But I believe this is an 8mm.

Muncher 1953 said:

A ‘perfect’ K98k with all matching parts in high condition (un touched, no refinishing) with a clean shiny bore is valuable enough that it probably shouldn’t be fired, ($2k-$3k+) tho many do. From there, value steps down for things like mis matched bolt, mis matched stock, other mis matched parts & how many/how mismatched they are, & poor bore or actually unfirable. How much each detraction counts is a matter of some discussion & opinion among collectors & shooters. More than 1 answer to the question.

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Ok, maybe I won’t fire it either..! Ya, too bad it doesn’t have numbers matching bolt, and is missing a couple original parts, even though I most likely will not sell it. Everything else is there. I suppose once it is cleaned, you guys can tell me if it can be fired.

Muncher 1953 said:

You wrote above that you’d inherited the rifle, do you own any other firearms? Are you a ‘gun guy’? Know anyone else who may be into older firearms w/wood stocks? Do you live in an apartment in a city or on a farm? Sorry for all the questions, but giving sound advice requires a little knowledge about a person. In your place (guessing some of the answers) I’d try to find someone local to me with some Mauser knowledge to look at the rifle with you. If you were to post your general location, it’s reasonably likely that someone on the forum is nearby, & might offer some assistance. Think about your goals in this, & the answer to the parts question will reveal itself.

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Haha- the only other “firearms” that I own are a couple pellet guns for the garden!
I do love guns, but I never ended up purchasing any “real” guns.
I brought it up to one of the “gun guys” At work, and he didn’t have a chance to get back to me yet. My other friends that I know own guns, don’t know anything about guns this old.
I have been pricing homes in rural areas, but I live in the suburbs.
Please don’t apologize for asking questions! I am enjoying these conversations, and don’t mind answering at all!
I did try looking up local gunsmiths, but I haven’t called any yet, and I did ask a guy at work if he knows anyone that could help me, and he didn’t have a chance yet to help.
I’m in SWPA, in a suburb of Pgh.
I suppose what I really want out of posting here, is to learn if it would not make the gun less valuable to find, and put the missing parts on it, and I could be guided to purchase ones that were as “correct as possible” and wouldn’t cause me to have too much $ for what it’s worth in it, would be extremely helpful information!
And of course, the best scenario would be to learn if it can, or should be fired, because I always wanted to, since I was a child lol.
Thanks so much for posting!
I know I didn’t come to the wrong place!

heavy_mech said:

Well what you show looks like it's matching and correct to the screws, minus the bolt of course. Now for this gun, the butt plate would be marked with the serial number and block suffix, so whatever you find to add won't be matching. I'd imagine it would be worth replacing those few missing parts. An unnumbered butt plate would be nice, but not sure how easy it is to find one. I never messed with the takedown disc so I can't comment on how hard (or not) it is to replace one.

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Ya. Great advice. Thanks!
I hate to say it, but I’d really love to have someone help me find parts that would be as close to “right” as possible.
And also make sure I wasn’t paying too much for what the parts are.
I know it’s a lot to ask— but if anyone was passionate about these rifles, I figured this is the place.
I just don’t want to detract value from the piece.
My father was completely non invasive in his approach to owning this rifle, so honestly, if adding disks and a butt plate woud take away from the value, or could possibly damage it, I probably shouldn’t do it.
I value your opinions here, for sure

Dippyeggs said:

Yeah- it’s something that really reminds me of my father, and I will always treasure it. I’m not going to try to sell it. He wasn’t in the war. All I know is that he bought it when I was a kid, at some point in the 70’s. I was always intrigued by it!

I do not think that is the case, because i don’t ever remember seeing it in any other condition. He never took even a screwdriver to it. Not to my knowledge. He didn’t pay much for it back then, but I don’t remember what he paid.
Ya- once I learn how to clean the bore without damaging it further, I will, and post pics to see what you gentlemen think. And I’d love to eventually fire it, if it would be safe to do so. Funny thing is, I know my father never fired the weapon, ever. But the guy he bought it from I believe, after researching, had a box of the wrong ammo with it. It came with a 20count box of Norma 7.65 ARG. But I believe this is an 8mm.

Ok, maybe I won’t fire it either..! Ya, too bad it doesn’t have numbers matching bolt, and is missing a couple original parts, even though I most likely will not sell it. Everything else is there. I suppose once it is cleaned, you guys can tell me if it can be fired.


Haha- the only other “firearms” that I own are a couple pellet guns for the garden!
I do love guns, but I never ended up purchasing any “real” guns.
I brought it up to one of the “gun guys” At work, and he didn’t have a chance to get back to me yet. My other friends that I know own guns, don’t know anything about guns this old.
I have been pricing homes in rural areas, but I live in the suburbs.
Please don’t apologize for asking questions! I am enjoying these conversations, and don’t mind answering at all!
I did try looking up local gunsmiths, but I haven’t called any yet, and I did ask a guy at work if he knows anyone that could help me, and he didn’t have a chance yet to help.
I’m in SWPA, in a suburb of Pgh.
I suppose what I really want out of posting here, is to learn if it would not make the gun less valuable to find, and put the missing parts on it, and I could be guided to purchase ones that were as “correct as possible” and wouldn’t cause me to have too much $ for what it’s worth in it, would be extremely helpful information!
And of course, the best scenario would be to learn if it can, or should be fired, because I always wanted to, since I was a child lol.
Thanks so much for posting!
I know I didn’t come to the wrong place!

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ya, wrong caliber ammo, would fit a 1909 Argentine Mauser,(7.65x53) as well as some Belgian rifles. unless modified, your rifle is 8x57mm = 8mm Mauser. I would get a ‘flat’ butt plate & screws, it’ll protect the butt & won’t detract from value any more than not having one. Go to walmart or bass pro & buy a cheap rifle cleaning rod kit, hoppe’s #9, an 8mm brush(30 cal OK) 30 cal patches. watch some vids of rifle cleaning. i like to clamp the rifle in a well padded vise, but you can do it free hand. CLEAN FROM THE BREECH (bolt) END !!! do this somewhere other than living room coffee table or bedroom, “it smells!” she’ll say. once its cleaner, you’ll know better about shooting it. it should be shiny & un pitted, the spiral of the rifling clearly visible. sometimes a dimmer light shows it better.

Thanks so much for the reply— you guys are helping me out more than you know, and you are
Appreciated!
I will try to take better pictures of the bore, and post them, after I do as you have advised.
Is it ok to keep posting in this thread?
Not sure if I’m breaking the rules in keeping this thread going.
Thanks everyone for your very good advice!
One more question——
I would need Hoppes solvent? To clean it?
What about Hoppes gun oil?
Do I use both on the bore?
Thanks again

Dippyeggs said:

Thanks so much for the reply— you guys are helping me out more than you know, and you are
Appreciated!
I will try to take better pictures of the bore, and post them, after I do as you have advised.
Is it ok to keep posting in this thread?
Not sure if I’m breaking the rules in keeping this thread going.
Thanks everyone for your very good advice!
One more question——
I would need Hoppes solvent? To clean it?
What about Hoppes gun oil?
Do I use both on the bore?
Thanks again

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Hoppe’s solvent = Hoppe’s #9, & their oil is fine, use the solvent until the patches come out clean, then oil the bore after. you could use any brand, but you don’t need a copper remover or other fancy $tuff, just an oil-based solvent cleaner. The Germans used Ballistol for both, & that is still available today if you prefer. It has a little bit of an anise smell to it. This thread, the nazi rifle forum, the collecting off topic forum would be suitable places to post. (but I’m not a mod, just a regular joe)

Muncher 1953 said:

Muncher 1953 said:

Hoppe’s solvent = Hoppe’s #9, & their oil is fine, use the solvent until the patches come out clean, then oil the bore after. you could use any brand, but you don’t need a copper remover or other fancy $tuff, just an oil-based solvent cleaner. The Germans used Ballistol for both, & that is still available today if you prefer. It has a little bit of an anise smell to it. This thread, the nazi rifle forum, the collecting off topic forum would be suitable places to post. (but I’m not a mod, just a regular joe)

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Thanks— great info.
I have to get to the store, and get what I need to get this bore cleaned.
I’ll just post here, to keep it all in one place, unless an admin advises me to move it out..
Haha my name happens to be Joe—
The only thing I’d ask, is advice on where to find parts, and decent replacements that won’t be a stupid purchase. I’d like to avoid that if possible.
Wondering if any of these parts would work good for this rifle?
I do have pictures of a barrel band spring, that I found on eBay. The guy wants $25 for it.
Is that a decent price, and does it look like something I should use, or pass on?
Thanks!

Dippyeggs said:

Thanks— great info.
I have to get to the store, and get what I need to get this bore cleaned.
I’ll just post here, to keep it all in one place, unless an admin advises me to move it out..
Haha my name happens to be Joe—
The only thing I’d ask, is advice on where to find parts, and decent replacements that won’t be a stupid purchase. I’d like to avoid that if possible.

Mauser 98 Parts and Schematic | Numrich Gun Parts

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Wondering if any of these parts would work good for this rifle?
I do have pictures of a barrel band spring, that I found on eBay. The guy wants $25 for it.
Is that a decent price, and does it look like something I should use, or pass on?
Thanks!

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Numrich gets $11.58 for the same part, but not every part they send you is the best. I’ve gotten great stuff & less good stuff. So yes that’s a nice looking part for $25. its an unserialed, un waffed milled type band spring. the correct one for your rifle would have the s/n & a WaA on the upper face on the front band end (the round knob end) The refinished flat butt plate I got from them is very nice, & the screws were OK as well. (in my spares, haven’t used it yet) Some ebay prices are pretty steep, but if seller says you’ll get the exact one in the pic, it can be worth it. I look there, numrich, liberty tree collectors, apex gun parts, Sarco Inc, but also here, you can post a WTB ad on The Trader here.

I have a lot to think about. Thanks
My cleaning kit will be here on Wednesday, so by the weekend, I should have pictures of the bore, after cleaning to see if it has any life left

Cleaned the bore.
These were the best shots I could get
And the pictures of the gun, you can see how the band spring is missing, and the bottom ring was put on the wrong way..
That means I will have to carefully remove the upper ring, if I ever want the bottom ring on correctly….ugh

So, what do you guys think? Is this a total bust, not to waste any money on, getting parts for it?
Just a wall hanger?

Dippyeggs said:

Cleaned the bore.
These were the best shots I could get
And the pictures of the gun, you can see how the band spring is missing, and the bottom ring was put on the wrong way..
That means I will have to carefully remove the upper ring, if I ever want the bottom ring on correctly….ugh

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Dippyeggs said:

So, what do you guys think? Is this a total bust, not to waste any money on, getting parts for it?
Just a wall hanger?

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no it doesn’t look too bad, at least what the pics show.

Should I not fire this gun?

Dippyeggs said:

Should I not fire this gun?

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I’d exercise my eyes a bit looking further down the bore, but the part that’s in focus doesn’t look bad at all. if it all looks like that, then i would shoot it. buy some PPU 198 grain fmj ammo, its comparatively tame loaded, don’t waste your $$ on match ammo. Hold it tight against your shoulder, 8mm kicks a bit!

Dippyeggs said:

Should I not fire this gun?

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It looks good on the focused portion of the image. I have firearms that look much worse and shoot great. Also, another way to measure bore condition is through doing a "bullet test" on the muzzle, where you insert the projectile end of a cartridge into the end of the barrel. If the projectile goes all the way in and the casing makes contact with barrel, then too much material is gone from the barrel and the bullet will not grab the rifling if there is any (meaning your rifle is as accurate as a musket), but yours doesn't look like it would have that problem. They are fun rifles, and even if the rifling was eroded you would still be fine, just wouldn't hit anything most likely.

Figured I’d post this picture of another matching numbers part.

Definitely needed another cleaning..
I’d like some opinions, Do I need to take this gun to a smith before firing it?

Dippyeggs said:

Definitely needed another cleaning..
I’d like some opinions, if I need to take this gun to a smith before firing it?

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what are you seeing that makes you ask that question? I ask not as a challenge, but of concern that you’re seeing something I’m not. I see nothing wrong with the bore, even a pitted bore isn’t unsafe to fire, but not very accurate & extra work to clean. if the bore is OBSTRUCTED, well that’s a problem. Other unsafe conditions: sear & cocking piece modification/polishing - guys who think the trigger pull is too long sometimes grind/file the trigger lobes, and or polish the sear heel & the matching face of the cocking piece, which can make the release point unstable, leading to slam fires. (gun goes off as a result of a bump while cocked) The other thing guys worry about is headspace, which isn’t really a safety problem on a model 98 because of the design, but excessive headspace can cause the cartridge base to fail, spoiling the shell & startling the shooter. (WEAR GLASSES!) a gun smith can check the sear/cocking piece visually & the headspace with gages, but so can you. Anything cracked or broken could be a problem (like the stock wrist for ex) Your average gunsmith today knows more about handguns & .223s than nasty notzi bolt guns. If you decide to have one check over the rifle, do some research on their expertise & experience.
when I have a new to me firearm, I look it over carefully & do firing tests with snap caps, do a tap test with soft faced hammer to check for slam firing, and finally, shoot it from a lead sled using 1/8” cord while standing behind a tree with a bag of lead shot draped over the receiver. All that is overkill, but I like my ugly face the way it is! If I thought one might actually blow up, I wouldn’t even try it.
In this case YOU are the only one who can see the rifle, I don’t want to give advice that winds up w/you getting hurt, but from what I can see, its OK.

We all want to see you succeed & safely!

I’m not seeing anything wrong, but I’m not a trained eye.
Amazing advice..I will have to research all that you have said here