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I had a bare frame for a Walther P1 that I built up. I wasnt sure if I was going to reannondize the frame or what I was going to do. It is aluminum so bluing was out of the equation. I came to the conclusion that I was going to do a two tone P1 build. I had the frame cerakoted a medium gray and...

I would bet a months salary that it has been rebarreled. I have one of these that I converted back to original with a NOS K43 barrel. I have one that someone rebarreled into a .270 and I rebarreled that one back to an 8mm with a used K43 barrel.

You could try it. Might be an expensive experiment. You will get less carbon build up with commercial ammo as opposed to old vintage surplus which I don't recommend shooting in these anyway. Sorry I cant give you a 100% definite answer. I think this is more of a trial and error thing. I doubt...

That is a hard question to answer. You are going to have to find the right person that is looking for one. This is not really a part that would get worn out and would only be sought out by someone restoring a rifle or building one from a bare receiver or one that was lost because the C clip...

I suppose that you could use it through a G43 but why bother running it through it. It is old, corrosive and why risk shooting surplus. I know it is cheaper but G/K43s arent being made anymore and they arent as stout as a K98. I run only commercial or my own handloads through mine.

I may be just lucky but I have never had to change springs to a heavier spring. 50's Yugo is known to have harder primers. I have never had an issue with them not going bang. The 1970's Yugo is superb. The 60's East German looks almost identical to WW2 German stuff that is steel cased.

Im in

B Patronen was banned by the Geneva Convention but since Russia wasnt a member, Germany and Russia used to use this ammo to kill each other. I have read several accounts in books of the devastating effects of using this round on people during the war.

All of the reproductions have to be tweaked a little. Some work better than others. The newer ones seem to be more fitted than the original run so you dont have to grind down the rear tang. The best post war magazines are the ones made in Denmark but those are hard to find.

It looks to be late war phosphate by the photo. All others would be blued.

It looks better than any reproduction that I have seen. I would lean towards yes, its original.

Definitely NOT a G43 pin.

Those sites that wont ship to Mass are afraid because the State Attorney General years ago threatened a few retailers for not getting a license in MA. There is absolutely NO LAW on the books saying that you cant ship to MA. Like all liberal shitholes, if there is NO LAW, make it up and threaten...

I was going to pick some up but it says you dont ship to Mass. Too bad I guess. There are no laws against shipping to MA.

Turk brass is very questionable. I have had countless case ruptures from it. Better off using Yugo brass. You should do a tutorial on your Berdan to Boxer conversion.

Count me in. I'll grab some from you when you put it up.

Mike I have shot similar German rounds and it all went back and was pretty accurate. I guess if it was stored well it would be good. I have had some that was stored badly and the cases were questionable.

I DONT run any surplus in my G/K 43's. Why take the chance? For me its either PPU factory ammo of my own reloads. With my own reloads I can load them the way I want them. With that said, I have no problem running German or any surplus through my K98's. Although I do stay away from some surplus...

I am not aware of a specific measurement. The rod should just be about touching the bolt carrier. You do not want much play or any at all from the rod to the bold carrier. If you have too much distance, your rod could mushroom over time and the constant pounding of the bolt carrier could cause...

You are correct sir! I should have it back soon. Apfeltor is just fine tuning everything and I will drop it into its new pretty stock as soon as I get it back.