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Looks correct. When installed does the ejector protrude into the bolt raceway? It should be able to strike the bottom of the cartridge case.

How about removing the ejector box and ejector and taking a pichure? I'd like to see the ejector.

Extractor serves to pull the cartridge (or cartridge case) from the chamber (OK, there's also a controlled feeding thingy in the loading process) As the bolt is pulled rearward, the extractor continues to pull the cartridge back until the base of the cartridge strikes the ejector. The ejector is...

Extractor works but the ejector isn't popping the cartridge out. Check the ejector for wear by comparing with a newer one.

Remember, if your screwdriver doesn't fit, you can grind or file it to fit. Shorter shank has less chance of slipping. We were required to make our own bits if we didn't want to mess up a workpiece (we were taught that if it was our fault, it was our loss).

You can clamp the bolt shroud (the part that has the safety) in a vise padded with wood and the pull the bolt body and rotate. Don't do it against nice furniture/fixtures like in the video. We had beat up workbenches and vises. link

Cocking the bolt back is an easy task. Welcome to the forum of experts (and I'm not an expert).

1) Heat sink. A heat sink is a threaded tool that goes into the bolt body (we made our heat sinks in the first semester of machine shop). It servfes to absorb some of the heat when the bolt handle is heated. 2) Bolt handle is heated to critcal. it can then be hammered (or bent with pliers)...

Please sell them to us.

German BraMit! Info on suppressed ammunition (David Truby mentions it in his book, Silencers, Snipers & Assassins). If you guys (Karem/Bruce) don't have those pages, lemme now and I'll copy it and send it to you. Count me in for a copy of Vol IV too.

Good tip. BTW, USPS x-rays every package so they know what's inside.

Buy the books by Karem & Steves books. Vol. III might be reprinted so sign up to get yours. Welcome to the forum.

Since it's a repro, try to find an original and take a caliper to it and see how they're different. If they're identical, then compare the scope bases. Something in the repro setup is off. You could also sketch both mount and base with measurements and post them here. Maybe someone with an...

Lucky! I see the Nationalist (KuoMinTang) star on the receiver.

Woodcraft has a set of six concave and convex (3 ea for 6 total) rubber sanding blocks. Buy a set if you're coming to Trinidad.

Cpl Norton is the expert on USMC Unertl. Most of that rifle can be cleaned up by you. It's a lot of handwork (no dremel) with sanding blocks and emery paper. Once it's repolished evenly, it can be reblued. Consider taking a NRA Summer Gonnesmything bluing class and if you take it at...

Concur with Cyrano4747 that it's a war prize that has been (poorly) sporterized.

Or it could be the screw hole was too far back on the receiver. Was it drilled/tapped at the factory? How about the mount? Factory or repro? I can see where a repro mount can be off just a tad. The steel receiver and scope mount shouldn't compress so I think my first speculation is wrong.

N 4 1! I hope the map is included.

Concur that base is not properly installed. Screw in too deep and thus making the base too close, which in turns bring scope mount ring in line with travel of bolt?