Danish Oil?

[gergnotwen]

A while back I read someones post about using Danish Oil as a stock finish. Under what circumstances would a collector consider using such a finish? Is this something that was used like BLO on walnut stocks? I tend to leave stocks alone unless utterly varnished and stained beyond hope (some ugly RC's or bubba'd stocks come to mind). I've used Howard's as well as Kramer's with excellent results that do not darken or alter appearance but help seriously dried out stocks. I know the subject of wood has been discussed many times but the Danish Oil has me curious. Thanks!

 

[bruce98k]

Danish Oil

In certain circumstances, the use of Danish oil is warranted (at least in my rule book).
I doubt if there is any agreement on any stock treatment, from Howards, BLO to Danish Oil across the forum.

My basic tenat is to keep the rifle as original as possible and in the case where a rifle has been coated with any non-original fnish, the first step is to remove that finish.
The next phase is tricky in that there is no one size fits all approach for the application of a finish coat.

Each rifle is a unique case, with large differences in how you approach a laminated versus walnut or hardwood stock. Even variations in laminate present problems - ie. white glue versus red glue, etc.

Years ago I did use Tung Oil but have switched to multiple types of Danish Oil as my basic foundation for finish restoration.

Some purists are down on putting anything on the stock, but remember the Germans used BLO as a stock sealcoat and when that ran short, alternate coatings were approved.

So in the end just work slow, ask for advice and use your best judgement when dealing with wood. One wrong turn and whammo, you could ruin it.

 

[S/42]

Craig, shhhh.

Danish Oil is all I use. I use an organic mix available here in Australia that contains NOTHING chemical other than the base oils - tung oil, linseed oil and a small amount of orange oil. The stuff is PERFECT - it gives the correct "refinish", and actually dries faster and BETTER than the adulterated stuff.

The organic one is difficult to find here at times, and when I CAN find it, I buy 2 x 1 litre pots of it. About $30 a litre...

I have tried the "commercial" stuff, and it's just varnish under a fancy name - useless, and usually won't dry properly over an older existing oil finish.

http://www.organoil.com.au/danishoil/index.html

MSDS:

http://www.organoil.com.au/danishoil/MSDS_Organoil_Old_Style_Danish_Oil.pdf

I have a jam jar under this very table I use occasionally. For refreshing though, I usually use their "straight" orange oil, or rub a quick coat of Danish on and off again.

Wax... NICHT! ES IST NICHT GUT.

Craig, hush now

 

[agentcq]

I have used Danish Oil, especially when trying to bring back a varnished or RC stock.

 

[Hambone]

Craig, shhhh.

Danish Oil is all I use. I use an organic mix available here in Australia that contains NOTHING chemical other than the base oils - tung oil, linseed oil and a small amount of orange oil. The stuff is PERFECT - it gives the correct "refinish", and actually dries faster and BETTER than the adulterated stuff.

The organic one is difficult to find here at times, and when I CAN find it, I buy 2 x 1 litre pots of it. About $30 a litre...

I have tried the "commercial" stuff, and it's just varnish under a fancy name - useless, and usually won't dry properly over an older existing oil finish.

http://www.organoil.com.au/danishoil/index.html

MSDS:

http://www.organoil.com.au/danishoil/MSDS_Organoil_Old_Style_Danish_Oil.pdf

I have a jam jar under this very table I use occasionally. For refreshing though, I usually use their "straight" orange oil, or rub a quick coat of Danish on and off again.

Wax... NICHT! ES IST NICHT GUT.

Craig, hush now

Lewis, you're still wiping your stock with something the Germans did not use and irreversibly staining/penetrating the wood. A professional museum curator would give you a spanking and fire you if you used that on a museum collection Howards to be the best off the shelf item when I am going to use something. It's the mildest, least obtrusive thing around and you can't tell it was put on after it has dried. Did the Germans use "BLO" (Boiled Linseed Oil) or did they use a "varnish" with a raw flaxseed oil (linseed oil) base? Modern BLO has chemical driers in it and is not the same as the flaxseed base used then. "Danish oil" is "organic"? Might want to check the ingredients, and who cares anyway? The Germans weren't shooting for "organic", they went with what worked. I do the same. Danish oil is also an oil based penetrative which means it leeches and penetrates into the grain and wood, like a stain. It performs the same function as Howards "Restorafinish", which is the penetrative. You can't undo that and the cardinal rule of conservation is never do anything that cannot be undone. The grime, dirt, foreign particles accumulated in the grain should be removed and the grain lightly sealed with a wax; that's surface treatment and can be undone. Penetrating oils and sealants cannot.

Yep, I've used Tung Oil and BLO on rifles, but my working rifles for the field and range that could be exposed to rain and outdoor humidity. I don't stain my rifles, nor use penetrative finishes, thus I don't use Danish Oil.