Oil or Graphite Grease?

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H

Hellraiser

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Hi,

took the G43 to the range yesterday.
It was jamming so I took a can of oil to free things up and now it cycles well.

But a friend (who shoots Garands and M14's) told me not to use oil, but graphite grease on the bolt.

I only want the best for the G43 so I guess I need some advise on the maintenance :)

Like for instance after how many rounds do I have to clean the gas tube, what products do I use for what parts, ...

:)

Kind regards,
Johan
 
More info--Is the rifle in an original Gas setup or this is a shooter. Are the springs been replaced! What type of ammo. Oil is good but too much lubrication is not good at all on this setup? Unless you are shooting it in sub zero or under the desert heat. In which Germans basically intended to use the rifle. I don't know the availability of the kit in Europe, something to look at. You are prone to have more issues down the line. Such as dreadful cracks on the bolt carrier.

ouch don't go here.

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http://apfeltor.com/



GL
Armen
 
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Without that shooters kit, this will be a K.43's future. They just didn't take the time to really care whether the rifle made it past a few thousand rounds or not. Too much power and bad springs cause messes with these.
 
Agreed.

Only new quality ammo.

A gas system from Rob, aka apfeltor.

New springs.

All a must before shooting more then a few rounds.

And I also only use oil. Usually clean 15w40. Haha and have fired it in the heat of summer and the dead of Canadian winter. Clean the gas system after every outing. I had a new stainless gas system from Rob, and forgot to clean for a few days and the piston was stuck, imagine it would be worse with factory gas system.
 
Thx,

the rifle has been converted to .308 about 10 years ago. This was done by a well-known gunsmith in the Netherlands,
so I think everything will be ok.

it will be a shooter (about 40rds every 2 weeks) and I'm using the lighter MEN Nato-rounds in 7,62 x 51.
(I had a bruised shoulder every 2 weeks when shooting 40rds with the K98, but now I don't feel anything and I guess I
could go on shooting all evening if I had to)

it also has the late version of the gas cylinder (with the holes)

but I'm more concerned about the proofing on May the 5th. Every gun that's imported in Belgium has to be proofed by the
proofing house in Liège.
They fire 2 or 3 rounds with ammo that has a 30% stronger pressure than the strongest approved CIP rounds available in stores.

I hope it will survive this...
 
I swear to graphite grease inside the receiver, safety lever etc. You must use the smallest hole from the shooters kit, so it hardly functions.
I presume the gun will get a firing proof after the test.:hail:
The above receiver - left side - looks like fired without the locking lugs.
 
.....and no heavy greese in with the firing pin. That pin could get gummed up with thick greese and debris and srick and then you have a full auto rifle momentarily.
 
Thx!

Yes it will get a firing proof, but the bad side is they will stamp the barrel, receiver and bolt carrier with new proof marks :(
 
So, yesterday I bought some prvi partizan 308 nato rounds and took it to the range.

Same thing as last week, after 15 rounds, the bolt begins to lock itself when ejecting the round.
it opens about 3 cm's and then locks up.

Sometimes so bad that I have to kick it on the table to release. Sometimes just wiggling the bolt
frees it up too.

My last shot opened the bolt and the shell was still stuck in the chamber so I think something's wrong
with the extractor. I think it catches in the receiver where the recoil lugs would be.
It is also badly worn, but in the middle of the part, not on the sides.

I'll disassemble the bolt and take some pictures this evening.
 
So, yesterday I found time to clean things up and discoverd that the bolt components were all matching :)



But I also noticed that the bolt indeed got stuck on the extractor catching in the receiver because
the extractor spring lost its tension. In fact after cleaning al the crud and rust of the extractor, it was so loose that I could
twist the pin without even applying pressure.



So I cut a few windings (3) of the spring of a regular ballpoint pen. They don't go all the way down into the extractor but sit between
the head of the pin and the extractor itself. Now it's back tight against the bolt and works like it should :)

Temporary fix until I find a new spring, pin and extractor but hand cycling works without binding :) now back to the range :)
 
Progress :)

Went to shoot it saturday.

It still jams after about 15 rds, but not as bad anymore. I can pull the bolt open with normal force now, as if you would load it.

Don't have to kick it on the table anymore :)

Why It starts bad cycling after 15 rds, I don't know yet. Think when things begin to warm up, something expands but what?
 
When it starts jamming after 15 rounds, fire a few more rounds by hand cycling to confirm it's jamming repeatedly. Once confirmed, remove the extractor, load 1 round in the magazine and fire again (of course you need to remove the spent ammo shell afterwards with a long cleaning rod). Do this a couple times to see if it still jams. If it does, something is keeping your bolt assembly from moving freely. If without the extractor it cycles without jamming, either the extractor gets caught somewhere or the hot ammo shell is hard to extract from the chamber.
 
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