Removing wood finish from a phosphate rifle?

moconfed

Senior Member
I am finally starting to clean/restock the svw45 I picked up last year, and have run into a snag. The previous owner had restocked it in a crudely finished fajen sporter stock, and applied finish to the wood when the rifle was assembled. In the process, the steel received some slops of whatever goo was used.
I initially tried ballistol and a rag, and it didn't budge. Then PB blaster and a rag in a small area below the woodline. Still nothing.
As the rifle is phosphate, I am very apprehensive of using anything too caustic and damaging the original finish. And I'd rather not end up with a rifle that screams "cleaned!"
I have used the search here, and stared at the screen until my eyeballs went dry, and have found very little as far as removing this stuff from metal, and absolutely nothing regarding a phosphate rifle.

Any advice at all would be a giant help!
Thanks in advance, gentlemen!
 
I've had no issues removing varnish and laqueur from phosphate finishes using a bit antique paint remover from Home Depot. Use a q-tip and go slow with just a small area at a time. Wipe off when the finish bubbles up. Easy!


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I've had no issues removing varnish and laqueur from phosphate finishes using a bit antique paint remover from Home Depot. Use a q-tip and go slow with just a small area at a time. Wipe off when the finish bubbles up. Easy!


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This. Go slow, use on areas not seen first, quick neutralize wipe with Ballistol immediately after on the spot.
 
Just use lacquer thinner or acetone, it will not hurt the phosphate or, bluing.

This can also work. I've just found that acetone is not strong enough to do much to remove old thick stuff sometimes. I follow up with acetone after stripper, then immediately neutralize with Ballistol.
 
This can also work. I've just found that acetone is not strong enough to do much to remove old thick stuff sometimes. I follow up with acetone after stripper, then immediately neutralize with Ballistol.

I would agree. Lacquer thinner should certainly be strong enough. A quick wipe with a well saturated clean white cloth like a tee shirt will tell you immediately.

Not to hijack this thread, but wrt the phosphate finishing of parts I've noticed quite a difference in color and surface texture. Any thoughts on use of mang, zinc or iron phosphate finishes? Who started using what formula? When? Just curious about these things. I'm sure someone has already noticed these trends and has some thoughts.
 
Just use lacquer thinner or acetone, it will not hurt the phosphate or, bluing.

Lacquer thinner will take almost anything off metal. Just do it out side. If it doesn't do it immediately let it dry and the stuff will flake off. The penny trick works well. Also use that on rust blisters.
 
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