Turret mount drilling method

belldanndy

Well-known member
Dear all,

Is that a way to precisely drill the screw holes on the receiver for the turret mount base to make the scope eventually balance on it? Thanks!! Regards Kelly
 
Turret Mounting

The easiest way to set a turret rifle scope up for proper alignment is to epoxy glue the bases using the scope as a guide. You can align the bases and set the reticule up all at the same time. Let the glue harden and drill where you aligned the parts. Once drilled you can heat the glue remove the bases thread them and solder in place.
 
This is merely an opinion. If you are planning on doing it yourself, and you've never done it before, don't practice on something you care about. I was gonna mount my ht rig on a matching byf44, all on my own, because I have all of the tools to do it correctly. In the end I figured if I wanted a really good job done, and I wanted the rifle and scope to actually work correctly together, perhaps it would be best left to a guy who knows his scope mounting. I had Vaughn do the work and it was perfect, shot well, and was correct. Again, this is just the option I chose.
 
Thanks for all the input. I just want to try it out myself, of cause not on a loveable receiver! But I really want to know the right way or the expert way to do it, because I can't find any good sources on this topic. Thanks! Regards Kelly
 
I think it is better to go ahead and solder the bases on to the receiver square to the receiver first.solder the rear base on first since there is a particular location.then there is a dimension from the front base to the rear base but I do not have that handy.if you have an original scope with rings you can use that to figure out the dimension.i recommend the soldering from the beginning rather than epoxying because there will be no clearance hole for the screws and screw heads,if original bases,like a regular US type scope mount.the turret base screws have tapered heads with about a 24 degree included angle.when these screws are tightened they act like a taper pin and will pull the base out of alignment when retightening the screws after removing the epoxied base.the base will shift back and forth as the screws are tightened so the screws have to end up in exactly the same position to end up with the base square again.if the hole is tapped a little crooked it will also pull or push the base out of square if not soldered first.it is best done with the receiver withbases attached is set up in a milling machine.setup with the receiver at a 30 degree angle for the rear base.setup with the receiver at a 45 degree angle for the front base.also check the fit of the clip slot hump to the rear base.you will find that the lip on the front of the base,low turret type,will rise up and tilt back when the base is pushed forward on a standard Mauser receiver.if you ever check the Argentine receiver and an Argentine or Mauser turret base you will see that the base will not rise up but slightly clears the clip slot hump.the Mauser low turret type base is made to the same drawing as the argentine base.the Mauser base even has the cut on the left front side of the base that is for clearing the bolt stop housing projection of the Argentine M1909 rifle.i personally think that the "bunny head"mark was used when this interference was checked and corrected on rifles chosen for conversion.
 
I too am in the process of looking into how to do this on a deactivated K98 I have. In terms of soldering, how do you apply the solder in terms of getting in between the receiver and bases, do you add it to the receiver and push the bases on top of this, or the other way around? Also to do the epoxy route is this the same procedure? Please just any help or possibly even pictures anyone has of doing this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks :thumbsup: :happy0180:
 
From my experience epoxy will not hold up for long if you are going to be shooting the rifle. You may try to PM vaughn99 and ask him. He has done a lot of rifles for me and fixed other gun smiths work...
 
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