What to do with patina going to rust?

chasdev

chasdev

Well-known member
I didn't want to hijack Bigdibbs88 thread so here's another..
Me, I can't abide rust and I am compelled to slather CLP on all my firearm's metal parts, especially those that are oxidized or gettin ready to go full rust
Are you guys conflicted or fully committed one way or the other when faced with original parts that need preservation, or are they best left alone for to nature to sort out in order to preserve originality?
BTW, I'm not advocating going wild with steel wool, just some oil (of the readers choice) and perhaps a q-tip or 20?
 
Personally, I would do everything in my power to preserve the natural finish. We are, after all, all about preservation. Right?


KJ
 
Depends on what you mean by natural finish?
If the the metal bits are rusted or starting to rust they will continue to rust unless something is done to prevent further oxidation.
Once started it is hard to stop, so perhaps the or another question should be "on what timescale are we preserving these relics"?
 
If it is just bluing going to patina, keep it oiled with Ballistol. Yes, it is still rust, but regular oiling will basically halt the process. You can soak it in Kroil and take it to bare steel, but that looks worse and exposed steel will rust if it is not constantly oiled as well. Basically, it's a matter of what you think looks better: bare steel or rust. I do not advocate leaving weapons un-oiled.
 
Man, I can NOT stand the stink of Kroil!
I worked with it for years to remove stuck/rusted bolts, and while it is hands down the best product ever made at freeing up badly rusted nuts/bolts, it reeks to high heaven and the smell stays on your hands, your clothes and in your house for days afterwards..
My choice for firearms is CLP..not a rust remover although it does stop rust and it smells 1000% better.
But to my original question, without "going after" say a rusted take down disc or buttplate to make it look new again, what do you guys do to halt ongoing rust (not patina on bluing)?
 
If you have a lot of rust nodules and pitting a brass brush will remove the rust and not remove proper bluing. Proper bluing has some depth into the steel, and the brass brush will not remove. You are left with the pits into the steel without rust in them. The brass does however get rubbed off on the steel, so you have to wipe it down well afterwards. That said, I've done that on a shooter and not on a true collector's piece.
 
chasdev said:
Man, I can NOT stand the stink of Kroil!
I worked with it for years to remove stuck/rusted bolts, and while it is hands down the best product ever made at freeing up badly rusted nuts/bolts, it reeks to high heaven and the smell stays on your hands, your clothes and in your house for days afterwards..
My choice for firearms is CLP..not a rust remover although it does stop rust and it smells 1000% better.
But to my original question, without "going after" say a rusted take down disc or buttplate to make it look new again, what do you guys do to halt ongoing rust (not patina on bluing)?
Click to expand...


I typically clean carefully with Kroil Oil. I use medical gloves from Walmart so it does not soak into my skin. On Japanese rifles, if they have that light rust like on the Robs rifle, I use the most fine steel wool that I can get with the Kroil oil. Others use bronze or Nickel wool. I have never been left with bare metal or blue loss on them. I am afraid to try it with a K98 so I just soak and clean with the Kroil. Once done, I coat it with RIG. RIG will pretty much halt the rust.
 
Kroil and bronze wool LIGHTLY used. Doesn't matter if you don't like the smell, and doesn't matter if it cuts your hands. It will get the job done without harming the finish.
 
I keep 'em all in sealed gun safes. Each safe has a large bag of silica gel in it that removes all moisture from the air. No humidity, no rust.
 
It's a firearm. Conservation means stopping active rust. Surface rust I lightly remove with bronze wool and ballistol. If there is rust on blue through the finish when you remove the rust there will be white, no blue, and it looks worse than the brown rust to me. I remove rust up to the point that blue is removed and before it shines white. If you're making things shiny white you're messing up, IMHO.
 
Bronze Wool and Blue Wonder cleaner! It will remove the active rust and leave the Blue. Follow up with Birchwood Casey Barricade. (to prevent rust) :thumbsup:

I used to use Kroil and Ballistol but found out there are better products to clean and preserve. (it's called progress) ;)

HDH.
 
Model said:
Bronze Wool and Blue Wonder cleaner! It will remove the active rust and leave the Blue. Follow up with Birchwood Casey Barricade. (to prevent rust) :thumbsup:

I used to use Kroil and Ballistol but found out there are better products to clean and preserve. (it's called progress) ;)

HDH.
Click to expand...


Kroil was never meant to be for long term storage. There is little progress giving a better rust soaker and penetrating oil than Kroil. It is still widely used by gun and vehicle owners. Use it for what it is good at. It is not everything, just a tool. I do not know anyone that uses it to preserve, especially long term.

Ballistol is meant as a multipurpose cleaner and preservative. It is designed with corrosive primers in mind. Most people know it is not for long term storage since mineral oil is not gonna last for years. Amazing product considering its age.
 
Hambone said:
It's a firearm. Conservation means stopping active rust. Surface rust I lightly remove with bronze wool and ballistol. If there is rust on blue through the finish when you remove the rust there will be white, no blue, and it looks worse than the brown rust to me. I remove rust up to the point that blue is removed and before it shines white. If you're making things shiny white you're messing up, IMHO.
Click to expand...


Yes, over cleaning greatly devalues the firearm. I would much rather own an uncleaned closet queen than a "cleaned" gun.
 
mike radford said:
Kroil was never meant to be for long term storage. There is little progress giving a better rust soaker and penetrating oil than Kroil. It is still widely used by gun and vehicle owners. Use it for what it is good at. It is not everything, just a tool. I do not know anyone that uses it to preserve, especially long term.

Ballistol is meant as a multipurpose cleaner and preservative. It is designed with corrosive primers in mind. Most people know it is not for long term storage since mineral oil is not gonna last for years. Amazing product considering its age.
Click to expand...

I never said don't ever use Kroil and or Ballistol, I still use them myself for certain applications. I do believe the two products I mentioned (Blue wonder/Barricade) will do a better job on what the Op want's to accomplish. (Removing rust without destroying the original finish and Preserving/Protecting the metal) Try it you'll like it. ;)

HDH.
 
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