Werder M69 cleaning rod and sling

7up

Well-known member
Hi all,
Just about to commit to a converted Werder rifle. It has no cleaning rod or a sling.
Does the Werder take a specific cleaning rod, or can it take the Mauser 71 cleaning rod ?
What would be the "correct" sling for the Werder please ?
Thanks
 
Hi all,
Just about to commit to a converted Werder rifle. It has no cleaning rod or a sling.
Does the Werder take a specific cleaning rod, or can it take the Mauser 71 cleaning rod ?
What would be the "correct" sling for the Werder please ?
Thanks
The unconverted Werders have a specific cleaning rod, but the Aptiertes (Converted) models and Neu modell (Ones that were built in 11x60 Mauser) should use an m71 cleaning rod. My converted one does anyway.

The sling, if you must have one, I would reach out to Mike Welser. A m71 model would work fine. he's on ebay and does very nice repros. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3046426943...lP8g9EXRhu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
The only caveat is I'm a bit dubious on repro slings because they never seem to look right against an old rifle, but that's just me.

Looking forward to pictures if you end up getting it. These are very near and dear to my heart. You might get addicted! The converted ones are the most common, but still pretty scarce. The carbines and unconverted ones are unobtainium and the pistols pop up maybe once or twice a year.
 
Thanks very much, there is a police carbine that a friend of mine is selling, but some of the metal is in poor shape (some of the metalwork is almost relic like).
The rifle in question has been completely refinished , but in very neat condition.
Regarding new slings I am of the same opinion as you, so on some of my other rifles I "weather" the repro slings by chucking them in an watery oily bucket and leaving it for a month. Pulling them out and go over with fine grit sand paper, this creates a dirty like fade. Leather die also works.
This works best with real leather.
 
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Thanks very much, there is a police carbine that a friend of mine is selling, but some of the metal is in poor shape (some of the metalwork is almost relic like).
The rifle in question has been completely refinished , but in very neat condition.
Regarding new slings I am of the same opinion as you, so on some of my other rifles I "weather" the repro slings by chucking them in an oily bucket and leaving it for a month. Pulling them out and go over with fine grit sand paper, this creates a dirty like fade. This works best with real leather.
The police carbines are pretty rare, though if it's as you say, probably best to pass.

I've done something similar with repro leather. Saturating in ballistol and flexing the leather around repeatedly. Still doesn't look original, but it's nice for a good carry sling if you shoot the rifle.
 
The police carbines are pretty rare, though if it's as you say, probably best to pass.

I've done something similar with repro leather. Saturating in ballistol and flexing the leather around repeatedly. Still doesn't look original, but it's nice for a good carry sling if you shoot the rifle.
Hi there, I have got my 2nd m69 Apt and it is MINT, no wood cracks and functions fine. If I keep the load low - moderate do you think there is a risk of cracking the stock ? Also are the newly made model M69's considered rare as I have seen one also ?
 
Hi there, I have got my 2nd m69 Apt and it is MINT, no wood cracks and functions fine. If I keep the load low - moderate do you think there is a risk of cracking the stock ? Also are the newly made model M69's considered rare as I have seen one also ?
Got any pics? There's always a risk on these, as there are a lot of points of failure, but lighter loads should be just fine sparingly.

I'd classify any Werder as scarce.
 
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Here they are, I think we had some Birchwood Casey super blue going on before I got it, but the wood is real nice, so is the bore.
Were it just the Apts that were prone to failing, or are we talking unconverted and new models too ?
 

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Here they are, I think we had some Birchwood Casey super blue going on before I got it, but the wood is real nice, so is the bore.
Were it just the Apts that were prone to failing, or are we talking unconverted and new models too ?
Thanks for taking the time for pics.

The stock was sanded/cleaned and I think the metal was reblued. Not being critical, as long as that was accounted for in the price, it's a good one to not feel guilty shooting---as long as it's mechanically sound.

The 11 x 60 was simply overpowered for the action on these, if you fire light loads you'll probably be okay, but either way you should try to err on the side of caution with your loading.


Congrats on the pickup!
 
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Thanks very much , oh yeah reblued and sanded 100% no arguments there.
I had another apt a few years back, that one I purchased (Much cheaper) with a clear crack in the stock. That crack appeared only surface, I did move it on eventually.
That one I used a lighter load of only 50gr weight black and a lee .457 sized to .446 350gr bullet, and held the black from 100. Will aim for the same with this one.
Do you want me to take pictures of the action , removed easily enough ?

The new model Werders had the IG71 barrel, were the action still considered overpowered on those too ?

As you may see in this world of sustainability, using a repro G98 sling I had laying around, I have done the old dirty sling trick with some bucket time, wood die, and linseed oil .
 
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Thanks very much , oh yeah reblued and sanded 100% no arguments there.
I had another apt a few years back, that one I purchased (Much cheaper) with a clear crack in the stock. That crack appeared only surface, I did move it on eventually.
That one I used a lighter load of only 50gr weight black and a lee .457 sized to .446 350gr bullet, and held the black from 100. Will aim for the same with this one.
Do you want me to take pictures of the action , removed easily enough ?

The new model Werders had the IG71 barrel, were the action still considered overpowered on those too ?

As you may see in this world of sustainability, using a repro G98 sling I had laying around, I have done the old dirty sling trick with some bucket time, wood die, and linseed oil .
The aging you did on the sling look pretty good. My only reason for pointing out the sand/reblue was that you used the descriptor "MINT" for it-- I just wanted to make sure you know it wasn't-- Mainly for fiduciary reasons!

The issue wasn't necessarily the barrel, moreso the size/power of the cartridge and the fact that it was engineered for different ammunition. Werders were made like swiss watches-- that actions were actually made offsite by different vendors and later mated to rifles at the factory. The tolerances were tight, and changing something important (like length and loading of ammo) will wreak havoc. The reviews on the aptierer (and neumodell) werders weren't very kind-- Storz talks about this in detail within the werder chapter.
 
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Thanks very much Chris, I guess when compared to my last one (in my eyes MINT haha) , but yes my perception purely, if not admittedly used the term a bit loosely.
Thanks for the info, the reason I asked about neumodell is that I were thinking to have the Apt as a non shooter, and use the neumodell as a shooter on the basis that it would be safer and less prone to breaking.
If no difference (going on that the condition and upkeeping are the same of course) , then I will leave it at that
 
Took the Werder out for the first time today from 100 yards with myself and my Father taking turns.
No cleaning in between, just load and shoot.
Light load of 50gr 2F, kapok filler, wad stack and bullet. Results promising from first test.

The only thing is the ejection is very good but throws the empty case high and forward over the firing line, so need to remember to pick up the brass, or use hand over the breach when ejecting.
 

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