So... this isn't good.

Yup I'd call that stock a basket case. There is a missing section of wood that is supposed to go behind the steel lug that has sheared away and is lost to time. Accuracy will be trash and it will continue to destroy itself if you shoot it in that state. Between that damage, the silly stamps, takedown disk, refinish... I'd be in the market for a different stock, personally.
 
Picture shows swp45 =dot.
Would this have had a Kriegsmodell stock to be accurate?
Thanks to @Muncher 1953 for the link. Yea, so it’s a post-war assembled example which is Czech rampant lion proofed. The “d” block swp-45 will fall into post war production. Pre-1950 configuration. I think swp-45 wartime ended in the “a” block. Post-war Brunn 1 started using up their wartime production parts as seen in the pics like the barreled receiver, etc. At this point, the rifle would most certainly feature a post war Czech stock which would lack the takedown discs, have the hole in buttplate for takedown, not be drilled for cleaning rod, but would feature bayo lug and stamped bands held with a bandspring. Most likely this rifle would have been built with a “winter stye” triggerguard as well.
 
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Honestly, my opinion on what your should do. Keep that stock as is for repairs. You never know when you may find a good deal on sporterized k98k that’s missing its forend. You can use a stock like this for grafting pieces onto another stock. Basically a donor stock. The damage to it is intense and would probably require professional work of you were intending on shooting with this stock. Not saying it can’t be done in a garage, but this is not a minimal amount of setback.

I would look for a replacement stock. If you want to be “historically accurate” on which stock to look for, we would need to know what code and year the rifle is…

Seconding this. That stock is trashed, use it to repair ones that have some life left in them. The recoil lug stuff is bad enough but the fake stamps and the ham fisted mods make it not worth saving.
 
What do you guys think of this? Its not cupped, but is it more accurate to this ones era?


Posting live “on going” auction links is not allowed on this forum.

That stock is a chopped up mess as well and even if it was intact would be completely incorrect period and manufacture wise. What do you want to do? Do you want to put the action in a sporter stock or a replacement like it came from the factory with?

So you have an idea what to look for if you want the “period correct” stock for that action.….

Again, these are the features you should look for… “post war Czech stock which would lack the takedown discs, have the hole in buttplate for takedown, not be drilled for cleaning rod, but would feature bayo lug and stamped bands held with a bandspring.”

Make a WTB ad on the trader for one. I’m sure someone here has one that is willing to let go. eBay stocks are generally terribly overpriced anyway.


 
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Something to keep in mind with this sort of restoration is that there is correct, there is "correct," and then there is good enough.

Finding a truly correct stock (right manufacturer, right year, right features, etc) can be difficult and expensive. Frankly I don't think it's worth it on 99% of cases because even if it's correct it will never be matching.

Finding a "correct" - by which I mean feature correct - stock is significantly easier. Grab a spare with the right set of features (laminate vs hardwood, cupped vs flat buttplate, takedown disk vs no) and call it a day. At a glance it will look the way the gun should have, but people who can spot things like a Steyr vs. Oberndorf bolt cutout at a glance will still be able to tell.

Finding something that is good enough is even easier. Grab the first decent condition 98k stock you can find and call it a day. It's military configuration, looks basically right, and at the end of the day it's fine for a shooter.

You need to figure out how much effort, time, and money you want to put into this and what your objectives are. Me, I usually fit into the second category and just look for things that are feature correct. I think it's a nice middle ground that works for things like sporter rescues and yields a good final result.
 
I agree with C4747, spot on.
The other possibility is get a sporterized cheap sturdy K98k stock maybe $50.00 or so and shoot that while you search for a better stock which IMO would be the "right set of features" mentioned ^^^^^
That would eliminate the have to have to shoot aspect and remove the being too anxious and settle for what you later (when you find the better one) wish you had waited on.
IMO
 
I agree with C4747, spot on.
The other possibility is get a sporterized cheap sturdy K98k stock maybe $50.00 or so and shoot that while you search for a better stock which IMO would be the "right set of features" mentioned ^^^^^
That would eliminate the have to have to shoot aspect and remove the being too anxious and settle for what you later (when you find the better one) wish you had waited on.
IMO
good luck with finding something for $50 that’s ‘sturdy’, but basically any sportered stock that doesn’t have setback would work for a ‘basic shooter’ stock.
 
I
I agree with C4747, spot on.
The other possibility is get a sporterized cheap sturdy K98k stock maybe $50.00 or so and shoot that while you search for a better stock which IMO would be the "right set of features" mentioned ^^^^^
That would eliminate the have to have to shoot aspect and remove the being too anxious and settle for what you later (when you find the better one) wish you had waited on.
IMO

I too would love a link to those $50 usable k98k stocks…

OP, I have a few project stocks that may work, if you are interested, see my post history
 
good luck with finding something for $50 that’s ‘sturdy’, but basically any sportered stock that doesn’t have setback would work for a ‘basic shooter’ stock.
Yeah, I agree. Not sure I've seen 'anything' including junk this cheap. The really beat up stocks with some issues a few large online sellers had were $119-129ish IIRC, and they even sold out pretty quick.
 
Posting live “on going” auction links is not allowed on this forum.

That stock is a chopped up mess as well and even if it was intact would be completely incorrect period and manufacture wise. What do you want to do? Do you want to put the action in a sporter stock or a replacement like it came from the factory with?

So you have an idea what to look for if you want the “period correct” stock for that action.….

Again, these are the features you should look for… “post war Czech stock which would lack the takedown discs, have the hole in buttplate for takedown, not be drilled for cleaning rod, but would feature bayo lug and stamped bands held with a bandspring.”

Make a WTB ad on the trader for one. I’m sure someone here has one that is willing to let go. eBay stocks are generally terribly overpriced anyway.


Oh, I forgot about that rule. My bad. Thank you for the information though, it's for sure something i needed to hear.
 
Something to keep in mind with this sort of restoration is that there is correct, there is "correct," and then there is good enough.

Finding a truly correct stock (right manufacturer, right year, right features, etc) can be difficult and expensive. Frankly I don't think it's worth it on 99% of cases because even if it's correct it will never be matching.

Finding a "correct" - by which I mean feature correct - stock is significantly easier. Grab a spare with the right set of features (laminate vs hardwood, cupped vs flat buttplate, takedown disk vs no) and call it a day. At a glance it will look the way the gun should have, but people who can spot things like a Steyr vs. Oberndorf bolt cutout at a glance will still be able to tell.

Finding something that is good enough is even easier. Grab the first decent condition 98k stock you can find and call it a day. It's military configuration, looks basically right, and at the end of the day it's fine for a shooter.

You need to figure out how much effort, time, and money you want to put into this and what your objectives are. Me, I usually fit into the second category and just look for things that are feature correct. I think it's a nice middle ground that works for things like sporter rescues and yields a good final result.
Those cutouts, man, I learn something new every time I come here.

Yeah, from what I can tell this rifle was made during the war, and then used after by the Czechs, because of the small lion stamp. I really just want to get it to its late WW2 vibe.
 
Those cutouts, man, I learn something new every time I come here.

Yeah, from what I can tell this rifle was made during the war, and then used after by the Czechs, because of the small lion stamp. I really just want to get it to its late WW2 vibe.
unless there’s an eagle firing proof, or evidence that one was removed, you can reasonably assume that it was finished AFTER “liberation”. The pieces were likely made before April 26th 1945, because they bear German inspection marks, but rifles were assembled, test fired & then proof stamped. If it has a lion, it was test fired & marked by the Czechs while or after the russians were there. It was quite possibly not Czech forces used but sold for export hard currency.
 
unless there’s an eagle firing proof, or evidence that one was removed, you can reasonably assume that it was finished AFTER “liberation”. The pieces were likely made before April 26th 1945, because they bear German inspection marks, but rifles were assembled, test fired & then proof stamped. If it has a lion, it was test fired & marked by the Czechs while or after the russians were there. It was quite possibly not Czech forces used but sold for export hard currency.
The bonus to this is that those post-war czech stocks (or the Israeli ones that are very ,very similar) are often cheaper than the wartime German ones.
 
unless there’s an eagle firing proof, or evidence that one was removed, you can reasonably assume that it was finished AFTER “liberation”. The pieces were likely made before April 26th 1945, because they bear German inspection marks, but rifles were assembled, test fired & then proof stamped. If it has a lion, it was test fired & marked by the Czechs while or after the russians were there. It was quite possibly not Czech forces used but sold for export hard currency.
It does have several little waffenamts, is this the same ad a firing proof?
 
Lol, I’m not understanding the confusion. Are my posts not visible? Rifle was not manufactured into a complete rifle during world war 2. Wartime production stopped in the “a” block. Yours is a “d” block. So it was assembled post war using “some” wartime made parts. Specifically the parts that have the “little waffenampts”. Like I mentioned before, it would most likely have the standard looking post war Czech stock and most likely the winter style triggerguard.
The firing proofs are the little rampant lions stamped on the left side of the receiver and barrel. That’s the biggest giveaway as if it was a German WW2 produced example, those lions would be small eagles with swastikas at their feet.

You say you don’t want an original but maybe a repro because you plan to shoot and don’t want to beat it up but also want it as “living history”. The most living history period accurate would be the post war Czech stock like I’ve mentioned several times because it’s the way it was built and has a unique stock configuration (semi kriegsmodell). Something to stick it in and shoot would be like @Cyrano4747 mentioned. Just any k98k stock that is solid. You bed it/shim it and shoot at your hearts content. For a repro, I only trust Leczek Foks in Poland. That will cost you handsomely, and the wait times currently are excessive. Been a few years since we’ve done business.

Czech firing proof below. Is your triggerguard like the one on my example? Post war Czech stock. German wartime firing proof for comparison.
 

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Lol, I’m not understanding the confusion. Are my posts not visible? Rifle was not manufactured into a complete rifle during world war 2. Wartime production stopped in the “a” block. Yours is a “d” block. So it was assembled post war using “some” wartime made parts. Specifically the parts that have the “little waffenampts”. Like I mentioned before, it would most likely have the standard looking post war Czech stock and most likely the winter style triggerguard.
The firing proofs are the little rampant lions stamped on the left side of the receiver and barrel. That’s the biggest giveaway as if it was a German WW2 produced example, those lions would be small eagles with swastikas at their feet.

You say you don’t want an original but maybe a repro because you plan to shoot and don’t want to beat it up but also want it as “living history”. The most living history period accurate would be the post war Czech stock like I’ve mentioned several times because it’s the way it was built and has a unique stock configuration (semi kriegsmodell). Something to stick it in and shoot would be like @Cyrano4747 mentioned. Just any k98k stock that is solid. You bed it/shim it and shoot at your hearts content. For a repro, I only trust Leczek Foks in Poland. That will cost you handsomely, and the wait times currently are excessive. Been a few years since we’ve done business.

Czech firing proof below. Is your triggerguard like the one on my example? Post war Czech stock. German wartime firing proof for comparison.
Thats a very handsome rifle, but no, the guard is very much not like that winter one. And I'm for sure looking about online for something I can use that would be more on the "wartime German" look. I think you have all spelled out what that means.
 
I have had this very chopped sporter stock I keep to test an action (have not used it in years)
Is the setback too much or is this still useful as a shooting stock.
As you can see it is a late and it has the drilled cupped butt plate. If the set back is not good I will remove the butt plate and discard it but if the stock is useable I will offer it. Not trying to get around sale forum as it is not worth the trouble to bother shipping
If it is useable LMK
My concern is notice the odd angle of the recoil lug that would make it an unusable stock
 

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