98k Bayonet DisAssembly

[BergerBoy]

Any insight into the proper way to remove the locking button on a 98k bayonet?
Its got a round head with a slot for a flat screwdriver, but there's also a center button to it, to prevent a typical screwdriver from engaging it.
Don't want to damage it, but do want to disassemble, clean, and document any markings on the insides of the button and its associated parts.

Thanks!

 

[NRA]

wow ,,,,,,, has it been dug up after 60 years?

 

[BergerBoy]

Not quite.
Just dug up on EBay.
Its a matching 43, which I was looking for to go with me CE43, and I wasn't interested in paying as much as some of the nicer examples were bidding up to (over $300!).
Wasn't as concerned with the condition, as I was getting a matching 1943 - this one from "jwh", which I learned was from the French factory called in Chattellerault. May be the only such facility within France?

Its pretty pitted on the pommel and the scabbard, but cleaned up pretty nicely.
The wooden handle is crack-free, and cleaned up well also.
And the blade is very clean and unsharpened.
The button functions well also.

Can provide more photos if anyone's interested in bayonets.

Just trying to remove the button and spring to clean it up some, and check for Waffenamts, etc.

Any good resources for bayonets of 98k's? Like assembly drawings, etc.?

Thanks

 

[S/42]

Cut an appropriately wide slot in a flat screwdriver.

I wouldn't though. Chances are being THAT corroded that you will snap the threaded section off the latch. Besides, there aren't any markings internally anyway!

Just leave it be.

 

[BergerBoy]

Thanks Vulch.
Will likely "Let it Be".
Just in case I decide to give it a ginger nudge though, how does the button come out?
Is it a normal threaded fastener?
Or is it like a quarter-turn lock, that you need to depress the button and then turn?

I can see a "77" on the side facing of the lock button's opposite rectangular side.
This is the last 2 of the s/n.
And I've seen others online that show a WaA on the internals.

I'm trying to be as cautious as possible after I buggered up my sight leaf hinge pins.
(Got that out to the gunsmith for a careful repair/reconstruction - likely to be an $80 oops! )

The surface pitting seems to be the worst of it on this bayonet - the rest of it is in "fair" shape.

 

[S/42]

Oh, Mr Hammer...

Step away from the bayonet.



The slotted nut screws off, but considering that pitting I WOULD NOT EVEN ATTEMPT IT!

 

[Rustybore]

Ok, let me explain what you are looking at.

The round thing with the slots is actually a nut.
The "button" you see in the center of the slotted nut is actually the end of a threaded stud which is an integral part of the lock (the square looking thing on the side of the pommel opposite the nut).

The threads are normal (righty tighty/lefty loosy).

Vulch's suggestion of modifying an appropriately sized flat screw driver is a good one. Make sure the screwdriver blade fills the slot completely, you don't what to ruin this nut, they are not easy to come by! And stripping the threads or twisting the stud off is also a show stopper.

Do not try this without soaking the nut is penetrating fluid for a good length of time.

I have personally taken bayonets apart that looked at lot worse than yours without breaking anything. But I only did it to replace broken springs or free up a seized lock., etc. I didn't do it to collect markings.

Be gentle! remember the rear sight leaf…….

Latter,
Rb.

 

[solman]

+3 vulch. its what i did. you have to mod a flat blade screwdriver. get kroil or wd 40 and let it sit for like months. then maybe.