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Best Place To Get Non Corrosive 8mm Mauser?

Reptaronice1

Reptaronice1

Well-known member
I have read online it isn’t worth shooting the corrosive stuff so I was wondering where I could get non corrosive ammo for a decent price?
 
Reptaronice1 said:
I have read online it isn’t worth shooting the corrosive stuff so I was wondering where I could get non corrosive ammo for a decent price?
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I've shot corrosive ammo all the time. Its the cleaning after range that is important. Nothing wrong with it. Havent look recently but finding new production 8mm is tough. I've been lucky one of my gunshops has been getting PPU 8mm in.
 
You can still find 1970s Portuguese ammunition that stuff is really good stuff too and it's non corrosive. Keep an eye on the trader here. Our buddy Joe does an ad at least once every other week with updates of ammunition he has in stock.
 
Nothing wrong with corrosive ammo... just clean it properly. If the world’s soldiers (sometimes illiterate) can figure out how to clean after firing, I’m absolutely certain you can too lol
 
I normally run PPU 8mm - haven’t been able to find any in a long time though.

PPU is good though- I use it in my k98’s, enfield, garands, mosins, etc just to avoid the pain of cleaning after corrosive.
 
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Scarey said:
I've shot corrosive ammo all the time. Its the cleaning after range that is important. Nothing wrong with it. Havent look recently but finding new production 8mm is tough. I've been lucky one of my gunshops has been getting PPU 8mm in.
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Ive heard all you need is a wet patch through it and then dry it with another patch?
 
Zh75 said:
I normally run PPU 8mm - haven’t been able to find any in a long time though.

PPU is good though- I use it in my k98’s, enfield, garands, mosins, etc just to avoid the pain of cleaning after corrosive.
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Ya seems it’s out of stock almost everywhere
 
It's easier to clean after corrosive ammo by first firing 2-3 non-corrosive rounds. I was able to buy a supply of Privi-Partisan 196 gr. NC at a show last year and it's worked well.
 
oldcorps said:
It's easier to clean after corrosive ammo by first firing 2-3 non-corrosive rounds. I was able to buy a supply of Privi-Partisan 196 gr. NC at a show last year and it's worked well.
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The non corrosive stuff is hard to find rn and stupid expensive is the problem
 
Fortuitously, my son and I gave each other bulk ammo as birthday and Christmas gifts for years and I'd even forgotten about some of it. 8mm Mauser isn't a popular calibre around here, so I do come across some at a reasonable price now and then. 7.7 Jap is another matter.
 
Reptaronice1 said:
I

Ive heard all you need is a wet patch through it and then dry it with another patch?
Click to expand...
I use 1/3 ballistol and 2/3 water in a spray bottle and I flush the bore and bolt. Basically anything that has carbon residue I spray it and wipe. I don't shoot corrosive all that much anymore as I reload and my reloads come out cheaper than surplus but if you find a good deal on corrosive ammo I wouldn't worry about shooting it just clean it same day. I'd probably avoid surplus in your mirror bores personally.

After you flush, then just run some dry patches to clean out the water and then clean normally. It's got extra steps but it's pretty easy in a bolt gun, if you using anything gas operated that isn't an AK it's a pain in the a$$ imo.
 
Buddies who came to Tulsa with me bought $1,000 worth of rifle primers at a decent price but had to look hard to find them.
 
Tough to get PPU for sure. Have seen prices of the Federal or Remington 8MM going for $60 per 20 from many sources. Years back the PPU could be had for $15-20 at some Gun Shows I frequented.
 
The other good thing about PPU if you can find it is that the brass is pretty decent. It's a touch on the brittle side, but nothing that prevents it from being reloaded a bunch. Annealing the neck every couple of loads helps with that as well.

I've stopped shooting corrosive ammo for two reasons:

1) I got tired of having to carefully clean after each range trip. I don't have as much time as I used to have, and sometimes I'll have to just toss the guns back in the safe right after I get home because I have other things that need my attention. Going back and cleaning a rifle a week or two later isn't a big deal if you're using modern ammo, but with corrosive primed cartridges you might discover a very unpleasant surprise waiting for you. If you shoot semi-autos at all you also have to be extremely careful to get all of the gas system parts. I'm just kind of done with the part of my life where I want to tear a G/K43 or an SVT-40 completely apart every time I take it to the range.

2) That ammo is really, really getting up there in years and was never of the highest quality in the first place. Some is better than others in this regard, of course. You can also run into issues with brass embrittlement on very old cartridges. I don't know the precise chemistry involved, but my understanding is that it has something to do with off-gassing as a decay product in some types of powders and that reacting with elements of the brass alloy in the casing. We're talking extremely long timespans, here, but if the ammo is 70 years old. . .

I had two 50s yugo 8mm cartridges with case head failures in K98ks. They split right down the middle of the case head, with a crack radiating out from the pocket to the rim and then up the case. I got to find out first hand how a K98k bolt handles gas being in places it shouldn't be. Unpleasant experience, but the guns were fine. It would be a very different story if I'd fed that into a semi-auto.

Long story short, guns are expensive and ammo is (comparatively) cheap even at today's prices.

If you can roll your own that's probably the most economical bet.
 
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