Broken safety

RyanE

Baby Face
Staff member
So this (matching) safety showed up at my door today. :censored:

Anyone have any experience "fixing" a broken one? I am thinking I might try soldering it, but thought I would ask before trying anything. I know it would only be a cosmetic fix that probably wouldn't last with heavy use, but I want to save it if at all possible.
 

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That sucks. I've had it happen a couple of times. Like you I hoped there was a fix, and there may well be, but my broken safeties are sitting in a drawer somewhere.
 
Along with the thumb piece, the tip of safety shaft (the part that engages the bolt body) is snapped off too......
I think is way beyond any type of functional repair.
For a strictly, "wall hanger" cosmetic patch, you might try some JB Weld epoxy to attach the thumb piece to what remains of the safety shaft.

Rb.
 
That's too bad. I know there have been posts about this. Out of curiosity how was the rifle packaged?
 
Along with the thumb piece, the tip of safety shaft (the part that engages the bolt body) is snapped off too......
I think is way beyond any type of functional repair.
For a strictly, "wall hanger" cosmetic patch, you might try some JB Weld epoxy to attach the thumb piece to what remains of the safety shaft.

Rb.

I didn't think of JB Weld, good suggestion.

I noticed the shaft damage, but it was not broken during shipment. The shaft was still in the bolt when I pulled it out out the box, and the other piece wasn't there when I finally got the bolt apart. Also, the damage is blued over. I'm thinking the depot used an already compromised safety that finally just broke? It was reasonably packaged during shipment, so I had no real complaints there.
 
I'm a mechanic, not an engineer but I do a pretty good job fixing engineering screwups. If I were going to fix that safety, I would still a small hole in each part, and put in a metal dowel using epoxy. Same way some of the guys fix duffle cuts. With a small piece of hardened steel epoxyef in there it would be fine to sit on a rifle. A small piece of metal like that could be a needle bearing from a small universal joint or somewhere will sell small metal rod. A model or rc car shop maybe.
 
Is it the #47 that makes it a matching part or is there also a matching WaA somewhere? Reason for asking, I used to get parts from a gun show dealer who had lots of double digit safety levers.
 
Is it the #47 that makes it a matching part or is there also a matching WaA somewhere? Reason for asking, I used to get parts from a gun show dealer who had lots of double digit safety levers.

It is scrubbed and renumbered part, so WaA is irrelevant. The depot renumbered all the salvaged bolt parts to match. I'll post the rifle in a bit.
 
I could tig weld that. you would have to have it reblued after but I have done some very small steel parts. Needs a full pen weld then polished.
 
A couple years ago I bought about 300 k98 safeties. It saw about 10-15 of these depot looking ground and renumbered safeties, just kind of interesting. I agree though if you need a structural repair it could be tigged nicely. I've been able to run 1/16 in beads on some small k98 parts. Let me dig through my safeties and see what two digit depot serials I have.
 
Why don't you just put an unnumbered armorers safety on it? I believe I have a couple
in my parts box. If interested PM me.
Tks,
Bob32268
 
If you get to the point where you feel there's nothing to lose you might try this stuff:

http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld/

No guarantee, but I've had great luck with it on jobs large and small. The key to success seems to be to have really clean mating surfaces. MEK works well for this.
 
I could tig weld that. you would have to have it reblued after but I have done some very small steel parts. Needs a full pen weld then polished.

Ryan, that sucks. But I think Mike has the answer if you want to use it, along with CanAR's suggestion of the internal pin. I use Devcon (probably better than JB Weld) and it has its limitations. I don't think it would hold for any purpose other than appearances.
 
Is the Rifle and Safety better off (In terms of Value) to be left as is as opposed to a modern repair that would show?

If it was welded, ground and reblued it would look humped or enhanced.

Or is it a similar situation to a Duffle Cut repair that can either be left as is or glued, pinned and repaired?
 
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