Carl Stiegele K97
- Thread starter Greg k97
- Start date
flynaked
Repo Field Gear Collector
That 97, is simply an arbitrary serial on the ejector box, this is not the model “97” which you have included a screenshot from. The transitional action, as they are commonly referred to, that you are hinting at, has a far different bolt shroud forging, long cocking piece, different bolt cam, small front receiver ring diameter etc. Not to say they couldn’t turn up from other makers, but to date the only ones I’ve seen have been from Mauser proper, and also actions sold to the trade, completed by, JP Sauer, and Rigby. Yours was made a few to several years after those actions IMO.
Blackpowderresearcher
Well-known member
First, welcome to the forum. Plenty of members who are much smarter than I are here.
Removing the barrel is easy - if you have:
1) A barrel vise with proper fitting barrel clamps. It should be mounted on a heavy bench or like at school, a steel beam.
2) A receiver wrench.
Place the barreled action into the wrench. This means the wood furniture, bolt, trigger guard and trigger must be removed. Strip the action nekkid such that all you havve is the recevier and the barrel. Secure the wrench tight so it doesn't move. Then insert the barrel into the vise as close to the receiver as possible. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise to unscrew the receiver from the barrel.
Note: If the barrel is clamped too far from the receiver, you can possibly bend the receiver like a classmate did. Thankfully one of our instructors straightened it for him.
Walther Howe's book (Professional Gunsmithing) describes the process and he used hardwood barrel clamps (but that was for a revolver). (I learned how to do it and missed the talk on barrel removal. However, thanks to Howe I easily removed the barrel).
Remember, when you reassemble it, always check headspace with both a go and no-go gauge.
BTW, I really see no reason to remove the barrel on a collectible gun. Secondly, you have a fluted barrel. This means less gripping surface for the barrel clamp. Third, the unfluted part has been engraved. You can possibly scratch the engraving if you try to remove the barrel. I've never tried computer printed (plastic) clamps, but yours may require it to fit the barrel. I certainly would not use my clamps on that rifle. Suggest you leave it alone. You've a fine hunting arm (look at the hinged box on the belly of the stock and flip up rear aperture rear sight). I hope you have the scope rings and scope for it.
Removing the barrel is easy - if you have:
1) A barrel vise with proper fitting barrel clamps. It should be mounted on a heavy bench or like at school, a steel beam.
2) A receiver wrench.
Place the barreled action into the wrench. This means the wood furniture, bolt, trigger guard and trigger must be removed. Strip the action nekkid such that all you havve is the recevier and the barrel. Secure the wrench tight so it doesn't move. Then insert the barrel into the vise as close to the receiver as possible. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise to unscrew the receiver from the barrel.
Note: If the barrel is clamped too far from the receiver, you can possibly bend the receiver like a classmate did. Thankfully one of our instructors straightened it for him.
Walther Howe's book (Professional Gunsmithing) describes the process and he used hardwood barrel clamps (but that was for a revolver). (I learned how to do it and missed the talk on barrel removal. However, thanks to Howe I easily removed the barrel).
Remember, when you reassemble it, always check headspace with both a go and no-go gauge.
BTW, I really see no reason to remove the barrel on a collectible gun. Secondly, you have a fluted barrel. This means less gripping surface for the barrel clamp. Third, the unfluted part has been engraved. You can possibly scratch the engraving if you try to remove the barrel. I've never tried computer printed (plastic) clamps, but yours may require it to fit the barrel. I certainly would not use my clamps on that rifle. Suggest you leave it alone. You've a fine hunting arm (look at the hinged box on the belly of the stock and flip up rear aperture rear sight). I hope you have the scope rings and scope for it.
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Blackpowderresearcher
Well-known member
Good.
Winchester Cowboy
Senior Member
What’s your reason for wanting to take the barrel off?
So with the info i can see without removing the barrel, is there any dating that can be assessed. Does anyone one k ow what the 97 means? I assume the 19 is related to the number on the bolt handle. Does anyone understand the 2.67 g with the other letters and initials? Thank you for any help!!
Winchester Cowboy
Senior Member
Found this:
Customer: I have a Mauser 3006 sporter that is pre 1913 I believe due to the marks 2.67g GBP / STMG and wanted to find out more about it. Where it is from, age of gun, who built it, value,etc? eIt is very beautiful and I can't find one exactly the same. Black rubber butteplatte, flat bolt action, beautiful walnut stock. Round barrel no iron sights. Crown with the letter N on the bolt and number 6132 on it and 32 on the rest of the Parts of the action. Would like to send pictures and get ur insight
I have a Mauser 3006 sporter that is pre 1913 I believe due to the marks 2.67g GBP / STMG and wanted to find out more
Expert's Assistant chat
Customer: I have a Mauser 3006 sporter that is pre 1913 I believe due to the marks 2.67g GBP / STMG and wanted to find out more about it. Where it is from, age of gun, who built it, value,etc? eIt is very beautiful and I can't find one exactly the same. Black rubber butteplatte, flat bolt action, beautiful walnut stock. Round barrel no iron sights. Crown with the letter N on the bolt and number 6132 on it and 32 on the rest of the Parts of the action. Would like to send pictures and get ur insight
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Fal Grunt
Senior Member
2.67 GBP marks the load of powder, and STMG, the bullet. Basically 2.67 grams of rifle powder and a steel jacketed bullet.
If you take a look at the previous responses, the 97 is simply the number on the ejector box. It may have been from another gun, that may have been the guns original serial number.
If you remove the stock and include pictures of the bottom of the receiver and barrel, we can provide more information including possibly more information on a date.
If you take a look at the previous responses, the 97 is simply the number on the ejector box. It may have been from another gun, that may have been the guns original serial number.
If you remove the stock and include pictures of the bottom of the receiver and barrel, we can provide more information including possibly more information on a date.
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