G43 I found & bought recently (New to G43 Collecting)

[kanishka]

Hey everybody, am new here.
I've always wanted a G43 due to their unique bolt/mechanism, but they are expensive as hell! During my Winter break off school, I worked at a local chemical company as a part-time lab tech for an entire month to save up enough money to buy this rifle (if I didn't want this rifle so bad I would have sat on my a$$ all Winter break). The thing is...besides the fact that it said all-matching I know almost nothing of G43's and I may have impulse bought before doing deeper research... (Yes I have learned my lesson)

It's a DUV-44, I am not sure what the letter is but I think it's a "k". Was a little too excited to buy but I spent the entire morning disassembling the bolt and getting it back together, learning the in's and out's. I've installed Apfeltor's shooter's kit and new springs (although my connecting rod did not fit his gas cylinder, so I used the original). It's an all-matching rifle (checked every bolt part, stock, bolt carrier, receiver, not sure where else it would be marked but it all matched). Barrel also is marked with crests/eagles. Magazine seems scratched up but the rifle seems to be in pretty good condition. The stock does not seem sanded (?) but the markings look worn. The barrel and endcap seem to have oxidized (?) but I guess that happens after 80 years. The sling seems old but I have no idea if it's original or not. The scope and mount are matching but the serial number does not match the gun unfortunately. The buttplate looks discoloured, no idea if it's rust or what but does anybody know a good way to get that "oil" colour off? There is an "H" etched into the left side by the safety, I do not know if this was done by a soldier or the person who took this home after the war. According to the seller it's from a relative who owned a military collectible shop in the 50's and bought it off a veteran (no papers though). No import marks. The sad part is the trigger seems to have been repaired at some point, but it seems I could replace it with another original one for $50. Sorry if the pictures aren't the best, I can take more though.

Overall though how bad of a choice was this?
Regardless, I do have 200 rounds of 8mm PPU and a score to settle with the local 200m gong.

 

[armenjs]

Better pictures of the bolt, bolt housing, gas system, left side of receiver. Overall all nice acquisition, From what I can tell, nothing that can't be fixed. Previous owner varnished the stock what you see on butt plate is the stain, the cr is repro, sling is late original, hood is original. I 'm not sure what happened with trigger along the way. Mount is original but not build by contractor BL.

 

[ls6man]

Not a bad rifle so far.. stock has been varnished but likely the varnish can be removed. It isn’t likely heavily sanded so that is a positive. Rifle so far has a lot of other positives. Need better pics of the bolt internals and left side of receiver. Mount looks like an original put better pics are needed as well.

 

[kanishka]

Do you mean CR as in cleaning rod? Also, should I leave the varnish on the stock just to protect it? And what's the best way to wipe the buttplate clean?

The photo didn't upload earlier but the serial number is on the stock, it is pretty hard to read though.
Here is the scope and gas system pictures first, is the gas cylinder supposed to look like this? Is it supposed to be more like a "cap" and closed on one side? Note the corroded gas piston.
PHOTOS INCOMING !

 

[kanishka]

Bolt and Receiver, are those lips on the bolt supposed to look like that? When I took the handguard off and turned the rifle to the side a dead gnat came out...no idea how long that's been in there. I didn't disassemble the bolt completely because last time it took me 30 minutes to fit everything back together with the new springs...

 

[kanishka]

Tried to get a good pic of the barrel but after a while I gave up.

Overall, it was about $3800 including Apfeltor's kit with new springs.

Here is the magazine too:

 

[armenjs]

Yes they slide inside the bolt housing along with dust cover.
Bolt and Receiver, are those lips on the bolt supposed to look like that? When I took the handguard off and turned the rifle to the side a dead gnat came out...no idea how long that's been in there. I didn't disassemble the bolt completely because last time it took me 30 minutes to fit everything back together with the new springs...

No, it looks fine, they're all like that. Just replace it with the shooter kit. do a final cleaning of original cylinder and store to keep it safe.
Here is the scope and gas system pictures first, is the gas cylinder supposed to look like this? Is it supposed to be more like a "cap" and closed on one side? Note the corroded gas piston.

Practice few time should be all good.
you also need to take the bolt apart. There are video how to do it.
Bolt and Receiver, are those lips on the bolt supposed to look like that? When I took the handguard off and turned the rifle to the side a dead gnat came out...no idea how long that's been in there. I didn't disassemble the bolt completely because last time it took me 30 minutes to fit everything back together with the new springs...

 

[kanishka]

No, it looks fine, they're all like that. Just replace it with the shooter kit. do a final cleaning of original cylinder and store to keep it safe.

My connecting rod is too long to use the new gas cylinder, the extra long part of the connecting rod fits into the original hollow cylinder but in Apfeltor's cylinder it hits a wall. Someone told me that you are not supposed to be able to see through the gas cylinder and I guess that's why Apfeltor's cylinder has a wall on the inside. Is it fine to use the old cylinder or should I get a new connecting rod to use with new gas cylinder?

 

[armenjs]

Your kit should have come with all the parts see below. Dont mix new kit with the old parts. Push back the spring connector rod all the way back, then insert middle connecter. Like the 2nd

pic.

Also video attached.

 

[kanishka]

Your kit should have come with all the parts see below. Dont mix new kit with the old parts. Push back the spring connector rod all the way back, then insert middle connecter. Like the 2nd

pic

Oh yes I made sure to follow that video, it was super helpful. The thing is that the new apfeltor cylinder doesn't fit my original connecting rod. Original Gas System down below (original cylinder):

Here is the gas system with the apfeltor shooter's kit installed, you can see that there is a LARGE gap that might need more than a few shims.


Last here is a photo showing how one end of my connecting rod is longer than the other.

 

[armenjs]

My kit is not from apfeltor but all should be same concept. That's odd, seems like your kit cylinder is not deep enough . have you tried shorter end first ? See if your original would fit the new piston. Maybe someone else can help ?

 

[AN-94]

Can't chime in on the shooter's kit but some mineral spirits will strip the varnish off of the buttplate and stock if you're so inclined. I have a Bubba'd Kar98b where varnish was slathered on the stock with the action still in it, a few passes with some mineral spirits took it off of the metal without issue.

 

[kanishka]

My kit is not from apfeltor but all should be same concept. That's odd, seems like your kit cylinder is not deep enough . have you tried shorter end first ? See if your original would fit the new piston. Maybe someone else can help ?

With the short end first it fits, but again the other side of the connecting rod is too long for the actuating rod "cup" and sticks out. Should I order a new connecting rod? It seems like everyone else's is even lengths on both sides.

Can't chime in on the shooter's kit but some mineral spirits will strip the varnish off of the buttplate and stock if you're so inclined. I have a Bubba'd Kar98b where varnish was slathered on the stock with the action still in it, a few passes with some mineral spirits took it off of the metal without issue.

Thanks! I'll will try to use turpentine or something else to wipe off the buttplate.

 

[BOS1938]

I think you did pretty good for $3,800 all in. When you shoot it, make sure to take a good look at the back of the bolt housing and ensure there aren't any cracks that have developed. If they do develop, send the housing to Apfeltor and he'll fix the cracks up real good.

Keep it clean and enjoy it! It's a unique and smooth shooting rifle. Welcome to the addiction.

 

[kanishka]

Do you think I overpaid? If it's a 1-200 dollars over I will chalk it up to learning curve. Also, how should the G43 be oiled properly?

 

[BOS1938]

Do you think I overpaid? If it's a 1-200 dollars over I will chalk it up to learning curve. Also, how should the G43 be oiled properly?

Not at all. An all matching DUV 44 w/ what appears to be an original scope? Lol like I said, you did pretty damn good for $3,800 all in.

My routine for oiling/cleaning is as follows:

Bore:
- Send 2 cleaning wipes drenched in Ballistol on a cleaning rod down the bore
- Run dry wipes down the bore until they come out clean
- Hit the bore with a bore snake 3 times

Rest of the rifle:
- Shooter Lube solvent on every other metal part of the rifle. It liquifies the carbon and makes it super easy to pick up with your wipes.
- Once the solvent is dry, apply Shooter Lube oil to every metal part of the rifle. Then use dry wipes to wipe away excess oil.

Total time it takes me to do this is about 1 hour and 15 minutes. My bore looks excellent, and there isn't a speck of dirt/surface rust/crap anywhere on my rifle.

 

[armenjs]

Do you think I overpaid? If it's a 1-200 dollars over I will chalk it up to learning curve. Also, how should the G43 be oiled properly?

Try shooting non corrosive primers. leaving salt inside is harmful. Or if you do, clean with Windex or just water down the barrel and dry. You need to dissemble the bolt and the lugs and confirm if it's matching, Well, as of the value, a Non rig without original mount cost about same as you paid for entire matching rifle! You did well.

 

[jsz]

Be careful with any solvent. I would start in a discreet place and start with alcohol, in the hopes its shellac. If it does not address it then move up to different solvent. The harsher the solvent the more damage you will do to the original underlying stock finish and possibly the laminate stock.

Jeff

 

[kanishka]

Not at all. An all matching DUV 44 w/ what appears to be an original scope? Lol like I said, you did pretty damn good for $3,800 all in.

My routine for oiling/cleaning is as follows:

Bore:
- Send 2 cleaning wipes drenched in Ballistol on a cleaning rod down the bore
- Run dry wipes down the bore until they come out clean
- Hit the bore with a bore snake 3 times

Rest of the rifle:
- Shooter Lube solvent on every other metal part of the rifle. It liquifies the carbon and makes it super easy to pick up with your wipes.
- Once the solvent is dry, apply Shooter Lube oil to every metal part of the rifle. Then use dry wipes to wipe away excess oil.

Total time it takes me to do this is about 1 hour and 15 minutes. My bore looks excellent, and there isn't a speck of dirt/surface rust/crap anywhere on my rifle.

Thanks! I'll try this out.

Try shooting non corrosive primers. leaving salt inside is harmful. Or if you do, clean with Windex or just water down the barrel and dry. You need to dissemble the bolt and the lugs and confirm if it's matching, Well, as of the value, a Non rig without original mount cost about same as you paid for entire matching rifle! You did well.

I picked up a case of 200 rounds of Prvi Partizan PPU 8mm ammo so no issues. I also have 300 rounds of Greek WW2 surplus ammo but I mean if the rifle is so expensive/rare then I can invest a little more into premium "under-powered" non-corrosive ammo.

Be careful with any solvent. I would start in a discreet place and start with alcohol, in the hopes its shellac. If it does not address it then move up to different solvent. The harsher the solvent the more damage you will do to the original underlying stock finish and possibly the laminate stock.

Jeff

Would it be better to just leave it on so a more experienced collector may choose to expertly remove it in the future?

 

[CRMausr7]

Thanks! I'll try this out.

I picked up a case of 200 rounds of Prvi Partizan PPU 8mm ammo so no issues. I also have 300 rounds of Greek WW2 surplus ammo but I mean if the rifle is so expensive/rare then I can invest a little more into premium "under-powered" non-corrosive ammo.

Would it be better to just leave it on so a more experienced collector may choose to expertly remove it in the future?

Personally, I'd recommend just leaving it as-is, unless you can find a very experienced woodworker that can remove the old finish and apply a proper one. Removing it without the proper expertise and solution could damage the collector's value of the rifle.