Help Removing Gewehr 98 Cleaning Rod Nut

OnlyMil

Junior Member
Hello, a buddy was mine was lucky enough to recently acquire a Gewehr 98 with cleaning rod, however, the cleaning rod won't seat/screw in properly. It will not hold at all, and will just fall out if the muzzle is tipped down. My guess is that there is crud in the nut. The rifle isn't duffle cut, and I'm trying to help him figure out the safest way to remove the cleaning rod nut without damaging anything. The cleaning rod fits and holds in my own K98k just fine. It is the correct 15" rod. Obviously, I can't test my K98k cleaning rod in the Gewehr 98 since it is only 12". I have a punch that fits the small hole in the stock channel, but gentle taps with a mallet or even a hammer won't budge the thing. Not just how much I should really wail on it... I'm debating using something like Kroil but I'd really rather not inject oil into the stock and be unsuccessful in removing the nut and leaving it sit in there to be absorbed. The stock has seen enough in 100+ years. My buddy has asked I try and fix it, and since Gewehr 98s fascinate me despite not owning one myself, was more than happy to just get my hands on one for once. Thanks for any help!!

I've attached some photos that might help.
 

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I wouldn't remove the nut they're usually rusted in and you'll Fanork up the wood trying to get it out. The threads are probably clogged. Straighten out a coat hanger wire, flatten and sharpen the tip a little, push it down the hole and rotate it. Turn the stock muzzle down over a piece of white paper and tap it with your knuckles in the vicinity of the nut and see if rust and dirt comes out. Some guys use a long drill bit, but that's hard steel and you have to be careful not to dink up the threads.
 
Personally I would not try removing the nut. I have removed them on a couple broken stocks, and the result, typically, was not good. You could try scouring around the edge with a razor knife and see if that helps, but again it is pretty risky. I would not recommend using Kroil on a stock.

As feldmutze stated, somehow, the cleaning rods would break with just the tip in the firing pin nut. It may be possible that this is the problem.
 
Slide the rod all the way down until it stops then mark it with a piece of tape, etc. just at the point it is even with the base of the bayonet lug. Then pull the rod out and line it up with the B.L. base at the 6:00 position and see where the threaded tip is in comparison to the exposed cleaning rod retaining lug. That ought to help determine if either the rod is stopped short of reaching it, appears to be just touching the forward part, or goes all the way through it (w/o engaging threads)...
 
Another observation...I have had rods which would go down & stop, but was unable to get them to screw in as well. In at least two cases, if memory serves, the rod retaining lug's hole was not perfectly lined up dead center with the threaded rod's tapered tip. Could be a case of the lug hole being just on the edge of mil spec or lug had "wandered" out of alignment. Sometimes the lug can be tapped up or down just the slightest bit and the rod will seat. Usually I put a screwdriver blade thru the patch slot, and both push down and turn the rod forcefully at the same time...taking care not to over do it and tweak the patch slot. Sticking the threaded end of the rod down the hole dripping with Ballistol a few times and letting it soak several minutes helped as well.
 
Thank you gentlemen for your advice. I have opted not to attempt to punch out the retaining nut so that I don't risk damaging or completely ruining the stock. I was finally able to try a different method this evening to get to the bottom of the issue. I used a very small borescope to actually see what was going on. (I first looked down my K98k to see what I was really looking for, photo provided) Lots of gunk in the G98 cleaning rod channel. I have attached photos of my progress. There was some debris and following advice from swjXE, straightened out a large size paperclip and began loosening crud and tapping on the stock to remove whatever I could. The rod window cutout in the stock channel between the bands was a real lifesaver here, not having to snake eveything15 inches but instead just 3 or 4. I was concerned when I found the base of the nut with no visible threads (photo provided). I continued poking around with my paper clip until - success! I was able to break through a buildup of crude in the nut. From there it was a matter of carefully maneuvering the paperclip, and time, to clear up the threads and remove as much of the crud as possible. I now have positive and full contact. Screws in tight - no movement. A happy ending. :)

Interesting enough about pwcosol's last reply, I had this exact issue with my K98k originally. I wasn't getting solid contact with the retaining nut threads, only partial contact. Used some small needle nose pliers to try and remove the nut on my K98k when I heard a slight pop. Slid the rod back in and it made perfect contact - I counted myself very lucky as I didn't have to remove the nut. I just had to adjust it a little bit!

Thank you everyone who helped me with this!
 

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Using a bore scope and taking photos to boot...the new "gold standard" for analysis! Glad to hear everything worked out AOK. This thread ought to be a pinned one for future reference for others' benefit as well...
 
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