K43 Magazine Falling Out
- Thread starter K43_Owner
- Start date
Blackpowderresearcher
Well-known member
Looks like #22 is a sear.
Blackpowderresearcher
Well-known member
The jarring on recoil could cause
1) weak spring to move; thereby releasing the magazine
2) worn magazine catch notch on magazine disconnect if catch moves
3) combination of both.
Suggest you try another magazine and if it holds, to compare the two. You may have to solder and file an piece of metal on either the magazine catch or the magazine itself.
1) weak spring to move; thereby releasing the magazine
2) worn magazine catch notch on magazine disconnect if catch moves
3) combination of both.
Suggest you try another magazine and if it holds, to compare the two. You may have to solder and file an piece of metal on either the magazine catch or the magazine itself.
The magazine issue was already fixed, maybe I need to just make a new thread
daltrey99
Senior Member
Yes that is worn and altered
Last edited:
daltrey99
Senior Member
I believe that might have been an early prototype
Thanks! I've emailed Apfeltor about it, since I saw in a previous thread that he had done this for someone else with this problem.
daltrey99
Senior Member
He has retired from gunsmith work but you never know! He has coached me through a brarrel change and I might put together a setup and POSSIBLY offer it up to others.
Try backing off the adjustment screw on the sear, worked on mine and for another member here as well.
Backing off as in making it go up or down?
My thinnest flathead screwdriver doesn't quite fit into the slot, so I'll have to look around for something that can do the job.
Could you explain how this would result in the hammer being able to successfully catch on the disconnector? Wouldn't this just make the trigger pull longer?
With the trigger held back the the hook on the hammer has to catch on the disconnector first, then when the trigger is released the hammer hook will slip of the disconnector and slip onto the second hook, the one showing very clearly in the drawing.
By unscrewing the adjustment screw the sear will pivot the disconnector slightly upwards, the swivel point is near #11.
The result will be a longer 1st stage in the trigger pull, but the hammer hook should catch the disconnector with the trigger fully depressed.
Another problem that I encountered in my rifle was that the bolt carrier was not all the way down on the receiver when viewed from the back, the holes in the back of the bolt carrier had elongated over time thus it appeared that the bottom of the bolt had too much wear and the hammer hook not grabbing the disconnector.
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By unscrewing the adjustment screw the sear will pivot the disconnector slightly upwards, the swivel point is near #11.
The result will be a longer 1st stage in the trigger pull, but the hammer hook should catch the disconnector with the trigger fully depressed.
Another problem that I encountered in my rifle was that the bolt carrier was not all the way down on the receiver when viewed from the back, the holes in the back of the bolt carrier had elongated over time thus it appeared that the bottom of the bolt had too much wear and the hammer hook not grabbing the disconnector.
.
GunKraut
Senior Member
At the 1/2" mark of the ruler you see a little 3/16" square tab sticking out forward at the bottom of the bolt housing. There's one on each side and they slide into the receiver cut-outs upon installation. Install the bolt housing without the bolt and find out how much you can move the forward facing part of the bolt housing up and down. This will tell you how much play/wear the tabs have. The more play, the higher the bolt rides over the hammer.
