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My BCD/BNZ44 dual code

reich1900

Senior Member
This BCD/BNZ44 dual code K98 that started out as a sporter and was restored to the BCD configuration. This is the way I bought it but was informed that it should be like the BNZ4. So I changed the parts and now it looks like this. What I found by accident is that the barrel has been counter bored as in BOTW book. It still has the BCD bolt which doesn't match, I have a BNZ bolt that I could exchange if that were correct. What do you guys say?
Bernie
 

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Turbo Archie
Why would you change the bands? I believe that they are correct for for the period BNZ guns.

Pisgah
The letter block is l in the range that the Kriegsmodell book lists. Sorry, it didn't come out in the photo.

AMbuilttoughf350
Page from Law's book will explain why and I would think the barrel manufacturer would have done it but that just my thought. Any other ideas?
 

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Turbo Archie
Why would you change the bands? I believe that they are correct for for the period BNZ guns.

Pisgah
The letter block is l in the range that the Kriegsmodell book lists. Sorry, it didn't come out in the photo.

AMbuilttoughf350
Page from Law's book will explain why and I would think the barrel manufacturer would have done it but that just my thought. Any other ideas?

ok, that explains it to me. i know the russians would counter bore barrels that had worn crowns VS replacing the barrels, and i know the Germans were quick to replace the barrel completely. i had heard the germans tested counter boring, but i never knew they tested the idea to prevent barrel bulging.
 
It is a Steyr assembled rifle with a receiver from another manufacturer. I would expect it to have similar parts to most other Steyr regular production Kar.98k's from the Summer-Fall timeframe of 1944.
 
Thank you Pisgah and mrfarb for your input. That's what I thought but wanted to know for sure. I have a bnz matching bolt to change for the bcd one and the gun will probably look better too.
 
Correct bolt.

Sorry to arrive late at the party. My bcd/bnz 4 has the matching bolt and I included a photo of the proof. Can't tell from the pic but its a tiny eagle/623. The description of the rest of the features are as follows.

Bolt body rough as a cobb, has full sn AND suffix, round gas escape holes. Blued.
Unmarked extractor, blued.
Unmarked, rough extractor ring, blued.
Safety has full sn, rough bcd style saftey, no proof on oposing flat. Blued.
Standard early, midwar style cocking piece, last two digits of sn. Blued.
Bolt shroud has full sn, no proofs or other markings, rough finished but not as rough as a bnz 45 style. Blued.
Firing pin has full sn.

mow.
 

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MOW, thank you for the detailed post and picture it is very helpful. I will check and compare each part to the one I put in the gun tomorrow. I also read with interest your post about these guns on Gunboards.
Bernie
 
MOW, I checked my replacement and it is all matching all blue late war with the round gas holes bolt. It seems very much like yours. Although, the gun is mismatched I believe all the parts are correct. It has original sling, rod and hood.
Thank you for the help with the bolt I don't think I can get any closer.

Bolt body has full ser# 4008s and proof on the bottom of the handle
Extractor ser# 08
Extractor ring E/77
Safety ser# 4008 and proof on other side
Cocking piece ser# 4008
Bolt shroud ser# 4008 and E/77
Firing pin ser#4008s and WaA77
 
Seems pretty close to me for authenticity. Sounds like the typical late steyr bolt which is about as correct as you can get. Only differences I see are the lack of proofs on mine and sn on extractor. Seems like the dual codes cut some extra corners on the proofing process.

mow.
 
Great pics now I know what mine is supposed to look like as I de-bubbify it. Serial number is 9072 "L" or "1", guess it is an "L".
the bolt is M/M it has WaA280 in several places.
 
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