My new TGF 1950

Nik Nz

Active member
Hiya Guys,

Many thanks for helping me with my other posts. I just picked up a "tgf 1950" that I was originally intending to use as my hunting rifle instead of my 1941 K98k. However, both of them are in such excellent condition that taking them in to the bush would almost be a crime!!

I welcome any comments that helps me learn a little extra about my new rifles history.

Very heavily stamped with wartime eagles and covered with a thick engine grease. Have not seen the barrel yet as its also blocked with grease. No signs of previous year or maker.

A "tgf 1950" Bayonet was sourced from a local boot sale the week prior for 50 NZ beans. The stamp on the tang has been double struck and hard to read but I think its "E3 cross swords 48" which im guessing would make the blade 2yrs younger than the scabbard and the rifle. Mid section of the blade is razor sharp and was also heavily covered in the same grease. The hilt has been very lightly struck with "tgf" too.

I will post some more pictures of the bore and underside as soon as I have cleared the gunk from its action.

Wishing you all well.

Nik
 

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Have attached more pictures and one of my RC BCD 1941 K98k.

I did pick what I thought was an original wartime sling for the "tgf", but it turned out to be an Isreali K98 sling with fake eagles. Either way, its going on there now.....

Wishing you all the best,

Nik
 

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Question remains what for tgf rifle is here, most real a total mixmaster with only a receiver marked tgf 1950, barell and other parts were forcematched, maybe by israelis? bayonet is a Vz24 bayonet for Vz.98N rifle, anyway mostly produced for CS army in 1948/50 and delivered to depots of east Germany and probably never used, or it was refurbished.
 
I have a tfg 1950 not original but nice condition.
I'm thinking about putting a scope on it but this would involve drilling for rings .
should i or shouldn't i
 
I have a tfg 1950 not original but nice condition.
I'm thinking about putting a scope on it but this would involve drilling for rings .
should i or shouldn't i
so-
it’s YOUR property to do with as you please, BUT if you drill it, it will never be undrilled, and it will lose most of its current value as a “late” K98k. You can likely find another K98k or close equal derivative that is already drilled for a decent price, because it’s already drilled. if it were in a sporter stock, bolt modified, sights gone, etc then OK its already ruined, but if its original “looking” , NO please don’t. If you need to scope it to shoot it (I do) there are several variations of a mount that replaces the rear sight leaf & uses a long eye relief ‘scout’ scope, which mounting is entirely reversible. I’d probably buy an unmessed with TGF50, but not one with holes, unless really cheap!

or
I have the 1st, haven’t tried the 2nd.
 
Question remains what for tgf rifle is here, most real a total mixmaster with only a receiver marked tgf 1950, barell and other parts were forcematched, maybe by israelis? bayonet is a Vz24 bayonet for Vz.98N rifle, anyway mostly produced for CS army in 1948/50 and delivered to depots of east Germany and probably never used, or it was refurbished.
Thank you Andy. I know its a long shot but I hope there is a connection somewhere on the rifle to the middle east.

I have just removed the grease from the barrel and its 9/10 condition.
 
I have a tfg 1950 not original but nice condition.
I'm thinking about putting a scope on it but this would involve drilling for rings .
should i or shouldn't i
Your gun, your choice, but for the rest of us it will be a ruined firearm.

If you want to drill and tap a 98k for a scope go find an already sporterized one. They're not hard to find in pawn shops across the country.
 
Drilled and tapped Mauser's are readily available, and dirt cheap. Dirt cheap as in, most are cheaper than what the labor would cost today.

There was an auction last week with probably 50-60 sporterized Mauser's. None of the work was good quality, but was functional. Just about any caliber from hunting to bench rest. I didn't watch too closely, but the most expensive I saw was sub $700 before fees.

You can buy a cheap 8mm sporter for $200-$300 without looking too hard.
 
Drilled and tapped Mauser's are readily available, and dirt cheap. Dirt cheap as in, most are cheaper than what the labor would cost today.

There was an auction last week with probably 50-60 sporterized Mauser's. None of the work was good quality, but was functional. Just about any caliber from hunting to bench rest. I didn't watch too closely, but the most expensive I saw was sub $700 before fees.

You can buy a cheap 8mm sporter for $200-$300 without looking too hard.

Yep, this x1000. It's to the point where when someone asks me for advice on a cheap rifle for a kid or a beater loaner gun for hunting I tell them to look for sporterized milsurps in pawn shops. Really the only thing you have to look out for is the bore, and as long as they weren't outright abused (i.e. left to rust out) most of them haven't gotten significant round counts since the 40s. A military barrel is never going to be the equal of even a cheap new production barrel, but it's plenty accurate enough for a kid plinking or typical white tail ranges.
 
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so-
. If you need to scope it to shoot it (I do) there are several variations of a mount that replaces the rear sight leaf & uses a long eye relief ‘scout’ scope, which mounting is entirely reversible.

or
I have the 1st, haven’t tried the 2nd.
This.
 
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