Need Help Identifying if Rifle is Original - K98 byf 43

[SIG4EVA]

I am looking to buy my first K98. It's a byf 43 and appears to be an all matching bring back, no import marks. The stock has been lightly sanded. There also is corrosion on the top side of the barreled action, the guy says that it's a phosphate finish. I would really like to get your opinion on what a fair value would be for this. Thank you for the help. I've shared an album of all the pictures.

https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/Q9kRhj1jR3GBrhfa3J6n0Q.DWlSZuVxbwksiV18kEulr8

 

[flynaked]

It’s not phosphate but rather shows the effects from the tar in cigarettes. They take on this golden hue just like this.

 

[heavy_mech]

Looks pretty original to me. Those numbers in the channel are really strong.

 

[flynaked]

Here a Navy rifle I found a few years back, wreaked of smoke and had the same perfect split of bluing damage above the wood line.

 

[Zeppelin5000]

As Flynaked mentioned, it’s not phosphate. This is too early for that finish. I was going to say it’s bluing loss and just dirty, but Flynaked brought up a good point. It looks to be properly matching, just the metal is a bit rough. How much is he asking?

 

[SIG4EVA]

It’s not phosphate but rather shows the effects from the tar in cigarettes. They take on this golden hue just like this.

Thank you, had no idea. What kind of value do you guys think is fair? He's asking 1500 and won't go lower. If GTG, I'll pick it up this week.

 

[Zeppelin5000]

Looks pretty original to me. Those numbers in the channel are really strong.

That's why I like Mauser Oberndorf rifles. Their numbering just seems so much more crisp than a lot of other manufacturers. Heres my byf 43's channel and handguard.

 

[Zeppelin5000]

Thank you, had no idea. What kind of value do you guys think is fair? He's asking 1500 and won't go lower. If GTG, I'll pick it up this week.

IMO, that seems fair. That's around the starting price for matching rifles. Hopefully you can clean up the metal a bit. By cleaning, I mean basic stuff; wiping away the crud, oiling, etc. As far as the finish, there isn't much to do about that.

 

[heavy_mech]

Yeah. Toothbrush and soft cotton cloth with some oil on the metal ONLY to start and then reevaluate. I think just with that it'll clean up a lot. All that crud isn't 'historic' IMHO.

 

[SIG4EVA]

IMO, that seems fair. That's around the starting price for matching rifles. Hopefully you can clean up the metal a bit. By cleaning, I mean basic stuff; wiping away the crud, oiling, etc. As far as the finish, there isn't much to do about that.

I've had two people on a facebook Mauser group tell me no more than $1,000 given the sanded stock and byf 43 is one of the most common maker/year. The thing is, I can barely find a RC locally for $700. I've seen mismatched go for $900+. On gunbroker, mismatched are going for well over $1,000. I don't want to get ripped off, its just so confusing and I've researched as much as I can find.

 

[Blacksmith]

I don’t know diddly, Bo or otherwise, about K98s, but I’ve been at the collecting bit for a spell. As such I would add the following general opinion:

If you are buying an item to flip it, then current market is absolutely a consideration. That’s when you whip out the barometer, solicit opinions, and get a general sense for what others might pay.

However, if you are buying it to keep, then really the only material opinions on value are the current buyer and seller. Granted, you don’t want to pay 5x what something is worth, but if you’re not looking to sell anytime soon, who knows what the market will be at some future point?

I would also add, members of any collector group likely have multiples of the item under study, so maybe wouldn’t pay as much.

I’ll close by saying, I can’t remember many times that I regretted buying something; but, I remember a bunch of times regretting not doing so.

Not sure if any of that helps. Good luck.

I've had two people on a facebook Mauser group tell me no more than $1,000 given the sanded stock and byf 43 is one of the most common maker/year. The thing is, I can barely find a RC locally for $700. I've seen mismatched go for $900+. On gunbroker, mismatched are going for well over $1,000. I don't want to get ripped off, its just so confusing and I've researched as much as I can find.

 

[heavy_mech]

..I can’t remember many times that I regretted buying something; but, I remember a bunch of times regretting not doing so.

For sure. It's always the ones that got away that you remember. FWIW I have another thread about an Israeli that I believe legit sold for almost this much and it's got issues. Really 1000-1200 is really the absolute bottom price unless you're into someone who doesn't know anything like an estate sale or widower or someone who 'just wants to get rid of it". It IS an MO so it's 'the Mauser'. It's also in all walnut so there's that too. Seems like a no excuses gun that should clean up really nice with a little elbow grease.

 

[SIG4EVA]

I really appreciate those insights! I didn't expect to go for a matching one, but it's the best deal I've found so far. I spent last year trying to round out my WWII collection. So far I have the following:

M1 Garand Springfield
M1 Carbine Inland
1903A3 Smith Corona
K31
Mosin
Savage Enfield
Carcano Calvary Carbine
Arisaka Type 99 Long

I just know there are a million factors that affect value of these and I'm just not that knowledgeable. Thank you for the help. I'm going to grab this one and see how it goes. He's at least including a repro sling, hood, and box of ammo.

 

[Bob in OHIO]

Is the G.43 for sale too?

 

[bob32268]

byf 43 all correct ?

The rifle looks to be all correct from the pics provided. Numbers match and all, which is good. However, the metal is a bit rough (to be kind about it). Mauser Oberndorf
was not using phosphate finish in 1943 so the seller is "giving you a line" on this. Dealers will come up with all types of excuses for poor condition and incorrect parts etc.
For the price it seems you're good to go on this one. You can improve the looks by "lightly" cleaning up the metal (nothing abrasive or anything like that)...
Thanks for posting and pics.
Bob32268

 

[SIG4EVA]

The rifle looks to be all correct from the pics provided. Numbers match and all, which is good. However, the metal is a bit rough (to be kind about it). Mauser Oberndorf
was not using phosphate finish in 1943 so the seller is "giving you a line" on this. Dealers will come up with all types of excuses for poor condition and incorrect parts etc.
For the price it seems you're good to go on this one. You can improve the looks by "lightly" cleaning up the metal (nothing abrasive or anything like that)...
Thanks for posting and pics.
Bob32268

Thank you for the peace of mind. I was able to get a few pictures of the Waffenamt to show the extent of sanding. What do you guys think?

 

[Wright]

Sanded is sanded. ‘Lightly sanded’ is like saying ‘just the tip’.

 

[heavy_mech]

Sanded is sanded. ‘Lightly sanded’ is like saying ‘just the tip’.

Lol. I can't argue with that kind of logic. In the big picture I'd place this between 'lighthly' and moderatlly. You can literally see the 60? grit scratch marks cross hatch. On a positive note they did not obiterate the stamps so there's that.

 

[SIG4EVA]

Is the G.43 for sale too?

He was not interested in selling. Paid $1800 for it too.

 

[M1903A3]

Let me just say that sanded doesn’t mean not original, so as far as that goes I’d choose sanded over faked or swapped.

I also don’t look so much at market value, it’s more important what it’s worth to you and to the seller. I think it’s a decent price personally.


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