Neglected rife clean up

[Turbo Archie]

Carding can absolutely scratch the living hell out of a finish. I've seen it first hand from someone who got a little over his skis after watching too much youtube.

Like everything else it's making sure you know what the right tools are and how to use them.

Have you personally done it?

 

[Cyrano4747]

Have you personally done it?

No, but that mostly has to do from watching the technique and being far more confident in my abilities with traditional methods. I don't have many guns i"m willing to experiment on and I'm conservative enough with my collection that I'm not going to try a technique like that until I have a beater I'm willing to ruin.

Like I said, I've seen the results of a clubmember screwing it up.

I've also never tried ski-jumping, but I'm cautious enough to not give it a shot until I'm confident I won't break my legs.

edit: point being, it's ultimately a moot point whether it works or not. At the very least it's an advanced technique unsuitable for someone who has expressed uncertainty if he can even disassemble the rifle.

 

[Cyrano4747]

Been hear once before about dou I was looking at getting

Moe, if you want the absolute most conservative way to go about cleaning and caring for this rifle this would be my advice:

1) disassemble the rifle. Use a proper set of hollow ground screwdrivers, a padded (rubber or plastic) mallet, and brass punch tools. Leave anything that is screwed into wood in the wood.
2) oil everything thoroughly using a penetrating oil. Kroil or something similar works.
3) clean the surface thoroughly with an oil rag. Get as much surface grime off as you can. You don't need to be aggressive.
4) For any rust spots hit them (gently) with some 0000 brass wool. You can also use a copper chore boy pad but make very sure it is the actual name brand and 100% copper. Cut a corner off of it with some scissors and make sure the metal is copper through and through, you don't want to use the copper-plated steel crap. Point being, DO NOT SCRUB WITH STEEL. Steel on steel is how you damage finish.
5) For anything really stubborn use a flat copper or brass scraper and attack it from the side. You can easily make one by flattening a brass rifle cartridge with a hammer and then filing the end to match whatever shape you need.
6) Don't do anything to the stock. Just leave it alone. You don't need to oil it, "feed" it, etc. If it has visible dirt and grime on it give it a wipe down with a damp (not wet, DAMP) wash cloth. If you need to do anything beyond that ask here.

edit: clean the barrel per normal - brass or plastic bore brush, your choice of patches, clean it chamber to muzzle etc.

 

[moe1]

Moe, if you want the absolute most conservative way to go about cleaning and caring for this rifle this would be my advice:

1) disassemble the rifle. Use a proper set of hollow ground screwdrivers, a padded (rubber or plastic) mallet, and brass punch tools. Leave anything that is screwed into wood in the wood.
2) oil everything thoroughly using a penetrating oil. Kroil or something similar works.
3) clean the surface thoroughly with an oil rag. Get as much surface grime off as you can. You don't need to be aggressive.
4) For any rust spots hit them (gently) with some 0000 brass wool. You can also use a copper chore boy pad but make very sure it is the actual name brand and 100% copper. Cut a corner off of it with some scissors and make sure the metal is copper through and through, you don't want to use the copper-plated steel crap. Point being, DO NOT SCRUB WITH STEEL. Steel on steel is how you damage finish.
5) For anything really stubborn use a flat copper or brass scraper and attack it from the side. You can easily make one by flattening a brass rifle cartridge with a hammer and then filing the end to match whatever shape you need.
6) Don't do anything to the stock. Just leave it alone. You don't need to oil it, "feed" it, etc. If it has visible dirt and grime on it give it a wipe down with a damp (not wet, DAMP) wash cloth. If you need to do anything beyond that ask here.

edit: clean the barrel per normal - brass or plastic bore brush, your choice of patches, clean it chamber to muzzle etc.

Did clean barrel and chamber like I do with all my rifles after day of shooting. Ran brass brush the lots if wadding Thur it. Super happy it look great shine bore lands and grooves are in awsome shape

 

[moe1]

Also clean the bolt. Action function smooth and consistent think it will be great shooter

 

[moe1]

So looks like this is gonna clean up well. This was just couple hrs work after a good soak

 

[Jdt]

So looks like this is gonna clean up well. This was just couple hrs work after a good soak

Very nice work!

 

[Mauserguy85]

Excellent work. Looks fantastic.

 

[Cyrano4747]

+1 to that. Looks really nice. Nice, conservative cleaning.

 

[R.Blue]

Moe, if you want the absolute most conservative way to go about cleaning and caring for this rifle this would be my advice:

1) disassemble the rifle. Use a proper set of hollow ground screwdrivers, a padded (rubber or plastic) mallet, and brass punch tools. Leave anything that is screwed into wood in the wood.
2) oil everything thoroughly using a penetrating oil. Kroil or something similar works.
3) clean the surface thoroughly with an oil rag. Get as much surface grime off as you can. You don't need to be aggressive.
4) For any rust spots hit them (gently) with some 0000 brass wool. You can also use a copper chore boy pad but make very sure it is the actual name brand and 100% copper. Cut a corner off of it with some scissors and make sure the metal is copper through and through, you don't want to use the copper-plated steel crap. Point being, DO NOT SCRUB WITH STEEL. Steel on steel is how you damage finish.
5) For anything really stubborn use a flat copper or brass scraper and attack it from the side. You can easily make one by flattening a brass rifle cartridge with a hammer and then filing the end to match whatever shape you need.
6) Don't do anything to the stock. Just leave it alone. You don't need to oil it, "feed" it, etc. If it has visible dirt and grime on it give it a wipe down with a damp (not wet, DAMP) wash cloth. If you need to do anything beyond that ask here.

edit: clean the barrel per normal - brass or plastic bore brush, your choice of patches, clean it chamber to muzzle etc.

Sound old school advice that I can say with 100% experience…works very well.
This rifle will clean up.

 

[THunter]

Looks great. Kroil is amazing stuff. Dont let it soak into the stock though, it will stain the wood. Best to take the action out of the wood before spraying/soaking the metal.

 

[moe1]

Thanks. Yes I'm waint on hollow point screwdrivers kit I bought. The will realy disassemble action take floorplates off soak it all

 

[corifleman]

Having done both methods, the extremely conservative with kroil and bronze wool or the boil/card method... on a super valuable piece I would probably start with the conservative method and see how far along it got me. The boil card method works phenomenally, but does seem to be more involved / invasive. I feel like the boiling method helps to even out a finish, whereas sugar rust on even finish might benefit from simple kroil and bronze wool. If you're worried about the steel on steel of the stainless steel carding wheel, you can use a rough fabric like denim as well. I've used and like both methods.

 

[Turbo Archie]

Boiling neutralizes the oxidation process, covering with oil does not...


..

 

[Warrior1354]

Looks like your project is coming along great! Did your G24t come with a cleaning rod by chance? If not, I have a spare one. That I can sell to you, to make it complete.

 

[moe1]

Looks like your project is coming along great! Did your G24t come with a cleaning rod by chance? If not, I have a spare one. That I can sell to you, to make it complete.

It didn’t. But does have bayonet.
Puc won't load says files to large.

 

[corifleman]

Boiling neutralizes the oxidation process, covering with oil does not...

Yes which is why for sugar / surface rust oil and bronze will generally do the trick. When you need to get into any sort of a deep/active pit, boiling is where it's at for me.

 

[moe1]

Yes which is why for sugar / surface rust oil and bronze will generally do the trick. When you need to get into any sort of a deep/active pit, boiling is where it's at for me.

Luckily there is no deep pitting to my surprise. Just the sugar as you put it.

 

[mauser202]

Nice work!

 

[Remfan]

Glad to hear it is coming along well. Great to see a treasure brought back to factory freshness. Thanks for the pics.