Numbers matching 98K in need of a replacement stock

DavidLaPell

Well-known member
Hello, thanks for adding me. I picked up today as a trade a 98K, dot 1944 marked, all numbers matching gun (except the stock, which has no numbers and neither does the buttplate) that for some reason, the previous owner at one time cut the stock just past where the bayonet mount was. Other than that the gun is very nice, the bore is excellent. So the hunt is on for a replacement stock. Any thoughts on some of the markings, I know the dot 1944 guns were some of the most common of the 98K's.

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It looks like you might be lucky and already have the original stock and it only needs the proper restoration work. What's the SN on the barrel?
 
Classic duffel cut k98k stock. Most likely the original stock. Would be best to repair the duffel cut with some donor wood and get some appropriate bands/handguard.

John.
 
I know just the guy with some doner stock wood, I have a laminate handguard you can use, not dot marked but it would work.

Has the front of the rear sight base been ground down? Should be a little sleeve there to accept the handgaurd. Almost looks that way
 
I know just the guy with some doner stock wood, I have a laminate handguard you can use, not dot marked but it would work.

Has the front of the rear sight base been ground down? Should be a little sleeve there to accept the handgaurd. Almost looks that way
The sleeve seems to be intact.

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Welcome Dave! As others have said this is a classic example of a duffel cut rifle, and one that is ripe for restoration. Given that its a dot 44 and the serial range this gun will be easier then most to make correct once again. I don't think the barrel bands, the hand guard or bayo lug would have been serialized, so that makes things a lot easier.

And in case you aren't aware what a 'duffel cut' is...home coming troops from the war would often cut the stocks of rifles so as to make them fit more easily in their duffel bag (or whatever other method they were using to transport them). Its not uncommon that over the years all the, now loose, parts forward of the cut ended up getting lost.
 
I know just the guy with some doner stock wood, I have a laminate handguard you can use, not dot marked but it would work.

Has the front of the rear sight base been ground down? Should be a little sleeve there to accept the handgaurd. Almost looks that way
I may be mistaken, but he should look for a “white glue” donor front end, as the stock appears to be “white glue” laminate. (rather than red glue, as many are)
 
Yes, I think a white glue is needed and maybe a bit harder to find a donor front end for. Red glue donor may look wrong. Thinking his rifle s/n might be in the transitional range at dot with NDFCR stock. Is there a cleaning rod hole in front edge of the stock? Not really an issue for the donor piece compared to the glue color.
 
Yes, I think a white glue is needed and maybe a bit harder to find a donor front end for. Red glue donor may look wrong. Thinking his rifle s/n might be in the transitional range at dot with NDFCR stock. Is there a cleaning rod hole in front edge of the stock? Not really an issue for the donor piece compared to the glue color.
There is no cleaning rod hole at all in the stock. Is it possible this was a Kriegsmodell without the cleaning rod?
 
I think in this serial range it could be a Semi-Kriegsmodell stock.

Check out this one from the Picture reference!
 
There is no cleaning rod hole at all in the stock. Is it possible this was a Kriegsmodell without the cleaning rod?
It would be a transitional stock like the one in the link above. No cleaning rod, but still had the bayonet lug and band spring. The band spring groove is evident on your stock at the cut, so not Kriegsmodell, or semi-Km, as the later dot rifles mostly were.
Here is a link to Mike's Late War site that shows the stock type designations very well... http://latewar.com/html/kriegsmodell.htm
 
Well, I found a piece of donor wood for this gun, right now this is the best (and only thing) I have been able to find. The picture isn't the greatest, but I won't need that much off this piece. I am going to work with some darker stain on the back half what I don't need first to see how I can blend this in better. I also ordered a whole stock that I found to put the action in for right now just so I can shoot it. Given the demand for K98 stocks right now, I won't have trouble reselling it. Since it looks as though this gun never had the cleaning rod, I won't have to worry about finding one of those when I get this.
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Remember, you only have one shot at cutting stock and fore end, and you need to make sure both cuts are square and the overall length from the step in the barrel to the bayonet lug is correct, or the barrel band spring won't fit. "Measure twice, cut once", so to speak. I'd say, measure 5 times before cutting, better safe than sorry.
I would use the process described by other members here were you drill matching holes into stock and fore end, insert threaded brass rods and glue everything together with a product called Acraglas by Brownells. Regular wood glue will not work, as wood glue will not create a firm bond with even lightly oil infested wood, and most stocks are infested more than just lightly, even if you don't see the oil. Nevertheless, clean the mating surfaces thoroughly with acetone. More than once.
Since the fore end needs to be straight and in line with the rest of the stock or the barrel will interfere with the barrel channel, it is recommended to build an alignment jig like the one shown below. Good luck.

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Giving all due respect to you GK. I'm loving your approach of manufacturing a jig to repair dufflebag cuts and all of your other recommendations and I'm sure it works perfectly, however if I was new at this game and saw this, I might scream, run to a corner and assume a fetal position at the thought of having to do all of this just to restore one rifle. I've always just assembled the barreled action, bands and handguard to the stock, making sure that all dowels and tubing are in alignment, making sure that I'm not going to permanently glue the stock to the barrel by using masking tape and/or the release agent that comes with the Accraglass, and using surgical tubing or strong rubber bands to keep everything tight while the epoxy is drying. I also use the quick release masking tape anywhere on the exterior of the stock and handguard where I think glue might spill over. It takes planning but if you do it right everything lines up perfectly.
 
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